David I got nothing, 72 volts from the batteries 27 volts at the kill switch and 34 volts at the DC/DC converter confirmed by 3 people. Cluster panel lights up and thats it. won’t run. I amat a complete lose on how to fix this
Mark
A cable goes directly from battery pack positive to the disconnect solenoid. So check the voltage there. Then a cable goes from there to the disconnect switch. It should be pretty easy to figure out if your voltage readings are correct.
I am getting 37 volts at both places?
Either a bad connection or the wire is bad going from the battery to the disconnect solenoid.
I check the cable, cleaned the connection even bypassed by using jumper cables, still 37 volts?
So you have 72 volts on the battery end of the cable and 37 volts on the other end of that cable that attaches to the solenoid?
Maybe this will help.
- Place your Black meter probe on Battery 1 Neg.
-
- Leave it there for this entire test.
- Place your Red meter probe on Battery 1 Pos.
- Meter should read somewhere around 12v.
-
- If not, make sure the meter is set correctly.
- Then move your Red meter probe to Battery 2 Pos.
- Meter should read the sum of two batteries (~24v)
- Then move to Pos on Battery 3. (-36v)
- Continue until you get to Battery 6 Pos.
If you do NOT get the proper increase at each battery Pos, then verify that the last battery was installed correctly (and not backwards). The interconnect cable should go from the previous battery Neg to the Pos on the next.
Exception is the small detour between 3 and 4 where the batteries are connected to an inline fuse block. Test for voltage from Batt 3 is going through the fuse.
If you place your red probe on Batt3(pos) you should get ~36v. Then follow the interconnect cable to the first connection on the fuse. It should also read the same. The second connection on the fuse should also read the same(~36v). Lastly, probing the Neg post on Batt4 should also be ~36v.
Follow?
OK so this,were im upto.
Batteries - 
Relays
new solenoid
voltage reads right from batteries, solenoid output same.
So im stuck now at these dc i have a two setup.
Help required
These are new dc ( well used but test at point of sale) sorry fotgot that piece off previous post
Some Thinks have two dc/dc converters. One mounts to the front of the frame rail and the other one mounts on the same frame rail but on the opposite side. It’s hard to get to. You can reach around and unplug it with your hand. The back one runs everything except the power point. The wiring will reach from the back one to the front. So, if this is the case just unplug the back one and plug it into the new one and see what happens.
The orange wires going into the dc/dc converters are 72 volt power and ground going into the converters. The red and black wires are 12 volt power and ground coming out. See page 82 in the electrical section
Dave let’s start over on this think problem. My 1st problem is the cluster panel lights up as soon as the kill switch is turned on, it shouldn’t come on until I turn the key?
The cluster does light up for a few seconds when the sds switch is turned on.
No it stays on and the battery icon flashes
What’s the battery pack voltage? Check powers and grounds to the cluster. Unplug mode switch harness from the instrument cluster and see if that changes anything. If that all checks out it will probably need a cluster.
David do you have a part # for the dc/dc converter?
622/11086 Sevcon
Most people use cheaper alternatives.
Hi David,
So it turned out my new DC converter wasnt working when tested, an other guy told me to switch to one off amazon so i have,
however i now face another lack of knowledge problem. What wire goes were, i did think i had hence the labels but it didnt work so ive gone wrong somewhere. All help appreciated
On the wiring harness the red wire is 12 volts out. Black wire 12 volt ground out. Orange/Black is battery pack ground. The other orange wire is battery pack positive.