I do have one in the position that you described but it’s been out of commission for as long as I’ve owned the vehicle. I’ve looked all over for a 2nd unit but I haven’t found one. I’m pretty sure there is just one unit.
I have the same problem except nothing works but my cluster. I checked the DC converter and it only shows 37 volts on the input nothing on the output. All new fuses? All new batteries, help
Bigfink
The fuse for the dc/dc converters is under the drivers seat. When taking voltage readings make sure to use battery #1 negative as your ground. Do not use the frame as it will give you erroneous readings. If you only have 37 volts the issue is most likely at the fuse. See pages 14 and 40 in the electrical section.
David The fuses are all new?
The problem is usually with the fuse holder. You need to check the voltage going into the fuse holder and the voltage coming out to see if that’s your problem
What voltage should I expect to see?
Battery pack voltage
David I am a real dumb ass when it comes to electrical, how do I test the fuse holders?
Thanks Mark
On the back there will be two wires. Both wires should read battery pack voltage.
Ok, I have 3 fuses, 6 wires, no matter where I put the Volt meter probes I get nothing
Is the Service Disconnect Switch turned on? The power for the fuses come from the switch so the switch must be on. Orange wire is power into the fuse and the Orange/Yellow wire is power out to the dc/dc converters.
Service switch is on
Both wires to the switch are orange no yellow and checking those still no volt reading
I was talking about the dc/dc fuse wires. Battery pack voltage goes directly from the battery pack to the switch. The other side goes to the fuses. See pages 39 and 82 in the electrical section. So, make sure you have battery pack voltage at the Service Disconnect Switch on both sides.
Really strange, only showing 24 volts at the disconnect switch in and out.
First, make sure your meter is set correctly. Place your meter probes across one battery to verify that the battery is ok, and that your meter displays what you would expect. (in this case ~12.7v if your battery is full).
You need to use the proper reference. (where is your black probe resting?) This is going to be a zero point. When testing Pack Voltage, the best place is going to be the last neg post in the battery chain. This is also known as B-.
Then place the Red meter probe on what you are testing for. Start off on the first Pos in your battery chain. This is know as B+. Verify that you are getting somewhere around 74 to 78v depending on the state of your batteries.
Then put your red probe on one of the fuse tabs, then the other. They should be reading the same as what you saw on B+.
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What voltage does the battery pack show?
Hi,
I have the same problem, i followed your post got a new dc converter and still nothing, i did combination between the 3 and still nothing, any idea on next steps?
Did you check for battery pack voltage going in and 12 volts coming out at the dc/dc converters? If so next check the dc/dc relay. See page 82 in the electrical section.
Hi,
So back ground is.
Replaced main dc converter which enabled me to get motor power back but still had no light, read up got a replacement dc coverter following your post and tried that but nothing, just ordered new relays, once i replace those i will give an update.I have a multi meter but im a visual learner and been struggling to work out the areas i need to test the current.
Tks Paul