My charger is definitely bad. I was able to get the batteries charged by hooking up multiple DC power supplies totaling 77 volts. Now it’s time to move the car. When I press the accelerator pedal, nothing happens.
After talking with Delta-Q they gave me a wiring diagram of the charger output relay control. On the Think harness side, I jumped the orange wire to the green and heard a pop and then smelled a burnt electrical smell. Not good! Any ideas what might have got fried?
Well, if it wasn’t before, it probably is now. At least the output side of the charger.
The crazy thing about the DQ chargers is that they switch around the polarity of that green wire depending on what car they are fitting the charger into. A person REALLY needs to be aware of this when working on these cars. The person at DQ probably didn’t pick up on this either and sent you the generic/standard wiring diagram.
I believe your Think uses the interlock feed of B- (not B+ ).
Usually this damages your charger, but I suspect jumping wires as you did may have backfed B+ into the car harness and therefore into parts that did not appreciate the backwards voltage. The cluster is really sensitive and may have let some smoke out.
I just received my new Delta-Q charger for our Ford Think. I was told that Delta-Q service will frown on any modifications done to the wiring harnesses. The DC cable is ~4’ long with large ring lugs. I purchased a barrier block to make the connections between the charger cable and the exsiting Think harness. Any suggestions on a better way to do this? Maybe ingnore the Think harness and connect directly to the battery connection pre solinoid.
I just run the harness straight to the batteries. The harness is about the perfect length. You just have to drill holes in the frame rails down the middle. Make sure it has the right algorithm. If you plan on using the interlock, make sure it sends a ground signal and not power.
Thanks guys for replying so quickly. First, David, thanks for your recommendation on running the cables straight to the battery connection. Is this an obvious connection? Is there any info in the service manual?
EV Drives, where I purchased it from, programmed it for the gel batteries it has. Secondly, yup… the new charger has B+ on the green wire. Need to find a relay that can handle 72V to convert to B-.
Hmmm - If you go that route, The relay will be active whenever the car is NOT plugged in (silently consuming a wee bit of power).
It might be better to work off the 120v AC side. Easier to find a relay too.
Just use one of the switched outputs to send B- to the interlock wire when NOT plugged in, and break it when charger IS plugged in.
Most people just run the interlock wire that comes from the instrument cluster to battery #1 ground. This bypasses the system. It really isn’t needed as you pretty much will trip over the extension cord if it’s plugged in. Running the cables to the batteries is pretty easy. Jack up the cart and crawl underneath. You have two frame rails running from side to side between the charger and battery pack. In the middle of the frame rails drill big enough holes to run the cables though. Route the cables through the holes and up the rear of the battery pack. Connect the positive cable to battery #6 positive and the negative cable that has the temp sensor on it to battery #1 ground. The charger has a built-in fuse, but some put another fuse between the positive charger cable and the battery.