Email me some screen shots of your BMS setting. wmgceo@gmail.com . Also which battery pack do you have?
Check thisâŚ
Hey doug Iâm in San Diego and could use your help with reprogramming my DQ. I could pay you if needed. Please contact me, thank you! Pauurowdy@gmail.com
Hello,
This is Deborah. I spoke with you on Friday during my lunch break about my 2014 Gem e4 and the charger having issues plus possibly more. I plan to pick it up on Monday from the dealer which I have little to no faith in since the tech has given me 4 different stories and has admitted that he doesnât feel confident in fixing it. Yet, they have no problem charging me $800 for just telling me they canât do it without a bunch of the electronics for $8k in hopes to fix the issue. Not what I expected from an authorized dealer. I just didnât have time before the holidays and was hoping they would actually know how to work on it. I will now be working on it myself.
I was hoping you would be able to send me the schematic or pin outs since the tech is telling me the 12 vdc output is reading 30vdc which I would like to check when I get there since it is all in pieces. There is a high probability that they are measuring on the wrong ground like you mentioned. Since I will be putting it back together myself since they want to charge me an additional $400 for that I could easily do a few checks as I go.
Originally the gem had died and then they replaced the batteries. Since then it has not worked. They current tech said one of the leads for the charger was misplaced and not connected on the correct ground. So that is a bit scary. There is a high chance something on the PSDM board could be fried too. The screen has not functioned yet either.
I hope this works as a reply since I havenât found the way to DM you.
Hey Shme,
Welcome to the group.
Was this cross posted over on FB?
There happens to be someone over there with a story much like this.
Yes- Go get that car. Is there any way you can get it back without those batteries? Or are they going to at least make you pay for those?
(trying to get you out of that place as cheap as possible.)
Then - we can help you get that car back running.
Where are you located?
Connecting the black ring terminal to the wrong place destroys the charger, as per what we talked about, before you were told that by âtechâ.
I still need charger sent to me, to put your plugs on a new dci charger.
It looks like a good case for small claims. Not so small either!
Thank you for the quick responses.
I just bought the car dead from my brother who is the one that bought the batteries and had it worked on at a golf cart store in southern California. I know I can work on it but thought an authorized dealer would have at least pointed me in the right direction before diving in since my time was limited. (Wishful thinking for sure! ) So the new batteries are already paid for and would have to go through my brother who wants nothing to do with the car due to him paying thousands in batteries and repair fees and getting nothings working. Iâm in the sacramento area of CA where the saga continues.
I plan to pick it up tomorrow so I will follow up once I get it home and have a chance to look things over myself. I expect the chargers DC to DC is failed but I would like to test the PSDM if possible to see if that is failing too. Just not sure yet on how to send 12 v to it. I have other 12v batteries that I could connect to see if the electronics powers on.
I donât believe psdm can be tested short of substitution in car.
Get everything else working first.
Heh,
Do something silly and see how fast you get a response. (all in good fun)
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Be very careful about randomly poking around without REALLY knowing what you are poking at. Best to ask first, or just follow what we tell you to do. It is quite easy to smoke some of the expensive components.
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Scrounge up a handheld meter of at least reasonable quality
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Test the batteries first. If low (most likely) Put a car charger on them (one at a time). They donât need to be out of the car, but one of them unhooked (breaking the chain) is sometimes best. (or the Main Disconnect switched off). Depending on their state, this process can be a multi-day effort. If > 11.5v each, then we can start testing other parts of the car.
If they will take a while, we can look at your other batteries as Plan B.
So I was able to pick up the gem and I believe his 30V reading was wrong since he was testing the red pin to the battery neg. Between the red to black pins is 0v. I was just about to remove the Delta Q and wanted to send you the current connections which are there. The big orange cable in the 1st photo was the one he said was not connected correctly. There is a small black cable connected behind it that is going to the Delta Q.
Also, the Voltage between the 72+ and battery ground is 72V as well as between the 72+ and 72Ground. I tested for impedance between them and it was reading some ohms so there is some sort of connection so I am not sure if that should be or if it should be reading open as you mentioned the ground and battery - should be isolated.
1.) Thank you, I will be careful. I am trying to not kill more than what has already been fried. I believe the technicians have already done a goo job at poking around where they donât really know themselves. I will be happy to ask for help.
2.) I have a decent meter that I just put a new battery in.
3.) Reading 72V and the last place charged it after correcting a line that was misconnected by the tech my brother had work on it. They had also put new batteries in so I would hope the batteries are not the issue. I expect it is they mess things up by not connecting things correctly. So I am scared about things being not connected correctly, so I would like to be sure it doesnât have more wires that have misplaced before adding power to it. If anyone has photos of the inside it would help. Iâm still going over the various wire diagrams/schematics I have been pulling up from online. It is just hard to tell if they are the exact one since they have made many modifications over the past few years. I may charge them again soon as you mentioned to be sure they stay charged. Where is the main disconnect switch?
When the charger is connected to 72v battery via black and red, there will be 12v output at black and red. The 12v system uses neg ground to frame.
The 72v black must not be connected to frame. Connect to traction battery b-.
Charger green is internal connection to b+. Do not short it. Charger white is analog input from 10k thermistor. 3.3v open circuit.
Dci green is 12v enable.
Ok so the 6 pin connector with the frame ground is good. There is another set of wires that come from the Delta Q that have red, black, green and white. That is the black on that is mounted on that Batt- and the red goes to the 72+. Those ones I have the most question on since they are attaching to the PSDM board with ring ends and could have been misplaced on accident.
They tech also told me the main contactor was bad but I wasnât sure if that could actually be tested at this point.
They tech also told me the main contactor was bad
Baahhhh!!! Poppycock and Tiddlywinks.
Let us be the judge.
Here! Here! (Agreed)
Bigger wires-
black on that is mounted on that Batt- and the red goes to the 72+
Actually, it is better if the charger Black wire connects to the lower connection on the PSDM. (marked -72). Hooked as it is, It wonât keep your car from operating, but it will not keep track of charge cycles the way it is.
Also- see your little avatar (currently a pink S) in the upper right of the page? That is probably showing that you have a private message waiting. Click on that and the first tab down will probably take you there.