@Inwo’s split battery should be arriving either today or tomorrow so I’ve got that piece of the build puzzle solved. I was planning to use a new style differential w/ 12:1 gear (via @MikeKC). An outstanding question in my head now is sound isolation. I’ve dug through as many threads as I can find, I think my options are
older style gearbox with modified axles (although I do like the 12:1 in my current setup which works perfect with my hills)
louder stereo
I know a couple of folks have gone down this path so if you could point me in the right direction, that would be awesome.
After that, I think the bulk of the build planning is done so I’ll probably start a new thread. Here’s where I landed
Motor - 8kw a/c motor
Controller - Sevcon Gen4 S4
Gearbox - new style w/12.1 (unless follow-on posts point me a different direction)
Battery - Telsa3 - 20s split by @Inwo
BMS - ANT BMS (?) built into the split battery by @Inwo
Charger - DeltaQ DCI (tabled the supercharger for later, unsure if do-able with 20s)
Wheels - TBD - will most likely be 17" but I’ll tackle that once I get it moving with higher voltage and lithium
I’ve got a backlog of projects I need to finish up before I dive into this so it might be a little while until I get the new thread going. Plus I haven’t even really driven the new car at all. Comes back on Tuesdsay so I might drive it around for 2-3 weeks stock before ripping it apart.
Thanks to everyone for the input, measuring, building, and advice.
PM me and we can get the 12:1 on it way if that is what you want to do.
Grant did the isolation kit from Rodney
I did the skateboard trux
We don’t have anyone that has done them both to compare
I was quite happy with the skateboard trux, at a cost of 8.00 or so, there is really no reason not to try them. I know that Rodney was looking for some better bushing as the ones in Grants rig broke down pretty quickly.
I recently helped Grant track down a couple of tougher rubber bushings for his setup. He will be doing a follow up post on how well they worked. (stay tuned)
Best to plug B- plug in first #1. Blue is B- power, already connected.
Then #2 balance plug. Only fit one way. Press to release plugs.
Lcd can plug in any time. Again, only one way.
Don’t short lcd or bms boards to any thing conductive.
Black and red from lcd power it. Battery voltage is ok. I think that I connect black ahead of bms to B-. Where blues are connected. I might have an extra nut on one bolt.
The red from bms and red from lcd connect last to B+. use a clip lead for now. It will arc slightly. Connect reds through a small fuse for final connection. 1 or 2 amps.
Find the switch. Two black wires. Leds on bms will illuminate. One will blink showing bluetooth = on.
Press button on side of lcd to turn on display. To be honest, don’t know why there are two. Whichever one works.
I can’t help but laugh at myself sometimes. Turned on the LCD and thought, crap, it defaulted the language to Chinese, I couldn’t make out the writing on the display. Then I realized it was just upside down
Sure, you’ll love this. Nothing to do.
Just connect the charger to B+ and the black bms wires.(also the load)
Everything goes through and is controlled by bms. Shunt and switching is built in.
You can read charging amps on LCD main screen. Also discharge and regen.
Well that’s simple enough!! I’ll have to mess with it more once I get it in the car but so far AWESOME. I feel luck and honored to have this pack!
I’ll probably need help with settings when I get into it.
I might buy one of the cases you put the battery in. Then I can drop it off with a welder to make me a new battery tray.
What custom wiring do I need to do when I pull the controller? Wasn’t there something about changing the directional switch? Will anything on the factory display work anymore or is that doa after the swap?
There are lots of things to do to get switched to 72v and generic controller.
I can build you the harnesses to make it easy.
The throttle and switches need to be wired to controller. The hardest part was finding a good way to power the controller from the key switch. Polaris has everything going through their ecm. Grant and myself tried many ways. Hope he remembers.
Dc converter needs to be rewired to dci charger.
Charger output through gem bms relay needs bypassing.
I think that’s about it.
Motor leads are identical.
All coming back to me now.
Every thing works except speed.
I may try to get Mike to hack that.
I make a kit to display speed on bms LCD if you want.
I couldn’t pick a good place on the dash for it, so just laid it on top.
We may not have connected e-brake or interlock. Ask Grant.
Hi Dave. I live near Ernie in San Diego and I am interested in the same set-up should you choose to build one again please let me know. I also have a 2016 E4 Thanks! - Steve Springer
I just sold the last Tesla3 that I built. Building another is in the works. It’s a big job, so it all depends on finding the free time.
Ernie is going all in with big motor and 72v conversion.
Might be best to see how you like his. Grant is the only one I know who went all in, and drives daily.
Do you know if Ernie’s battery fit ok?
@Erniea15 is slacking… Work, kids, and boats… haven’t been able to dive into it. I’ve got 99% of all the parts I need so check there. I also want to get my old 2000 converted back to DC so I can list and sell it, then I’ll dive in. Trying to not have too many open projects going at once.
1-2 weeks out from starting to gut my 2016. Don’t worry, I’ll start a new thread so folks can follow… I’m sure I’ll have questions.
@smspring has a couple of bad cells. My wet cells can go to him and keep him running until lithium. Trying to convince @AssyRequired to come down and help me with a custom battery tray. Getting there!
Might be more like 98% of the parts. The rest is wiring.
With luck, I may work on my 2018 at the same time, or @grantwest will get us some picture of his.
The two things that are fuzzy are the charger and key switch. Both are simple circuits, but we had lots of trial and error to get the key to power the Sevcon. Seems strange now that I think back, as it’s the same controller.
Stupid brain: @MikeKC did I remember to have Ernie’s contactor programmed to 48 volts? He may need to return it if you’re not sure. Grant’s file could be either way, as I burned out his oem contactor by not getting the key switch to turn off power to controller.
I’m going to pull the controller out of my 2000 this weekend, I can send it back. I feel like we messed with other settings trying to get the 5kw motor to work but you guys would know better than me. Would rather load with the latest and greatest config just to be safe.
Ps. Was zipping around in the old one the other day and the controller went into limp mode towards the end of a 1.5 mile hill climb. That under the dash controller location for the early legacy gems is terrible for cooling. Hopefully I didn’t cause any damage to it.
@Inwo
I 99% sure that controller sent was 70v pull in and 60v hold on the contactor. I never even crossed my mind that he might be using 48v. @Erniea15 you do only have one controller correct?
But is is not using 48v is he (currently or in the new 16’)? I thought he put in your Tesla battery?
Either way a quick ship back and fourth and we can take care of him. I have made some additional coding tweaks to the DCF that I feel are drivability improvements.
Going in my way back time machine I remember you talking about having to jump a wire (I think from 12v) to get the car to power up with the new controller - but I could be way off base.
One controller. It’s in my legacy 2000. Plan is to pull it out this weekend and then repurpose for the 2016 with the telsa battery. So 72v contactor now going to 48v. Let me just sent it back so we’re sure. Send to you or Dave?
