I even sanded down the Detachable Feet for the subs
Warranty void now.
Just waiting on a few extra pieces. I need a 3.5 Mm splitter & a 4 foot 3.5mm extension cable. Turns out not all 3.5 Mm splitter cables are the same. Had to find out the hard way 
Turns out most splitters that you find are ones that have 1 Headphone 3.5mm channel & the 2nd 3.5mm channel is a Microphone channel so that why my splitter was not working right. New ones are in the mail. O well I should have it all finished this weekend. Iām wondering if my 15 Amp 110v circuit can support charging the Delta Q thatās in the car charging the traction battery and the Small lithium charger that will charge the Stereo battery on the 15 amp circuit? The Most I have ever seen my DeltaQ charge at is 12 Amps.
The small lithium battery charger has a 2 amp setting. So Iām thinking it might work. Usually the delta Q fires up at 12 amps and then Tapers down. Same thing with the small lithium charger. just wondering it I should or have to separate them. It would be convenient To Not have to run 2 different power cords out to the car. 1 for the car & one for the stereo. That would be pretty lame
The Delta Q pulls 12A because of the 80% rule for steady loads. ie only pull 80% of the circuits breaker rating. 15-3=12A so adding 2A on top of that is not a good idea. A 20A circuit could handle it though but you also have to be concerned about your extension cord.
A possible option might be a timer/delay which would kick on the additional battery charger after the max time of the Delta Qās bulk charge time. Or, a DC-DC charger run off the main lithium battery and enabled only when thereās AC power( mechanical relay or SSR ).
Hey Thanks for that info: Here is somthing I didnāt think about. The DC/DC converter I was gonna return. I wonder if I could use that as a Battery charger??? Tap into my Traction batteryās 98 volts & then hook the output to a Keyed switch so when ever the hey is on the DC converters output is going to the Lithium battery ???
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Itās an LFP battery so I would think that would work as long as you can set the current output limit and the max voltage limit. For the most part youād be running off the DC-DC as it keeps the LFP battery topped off( I would shoot for ~3.55V/cell and not the 3.65V max rating ) and when your BoomBoom base needs big power it has the LFP to draw from. Should work if the DC-DC can handle the bouncing without current and voltage POTs changing settings.
I think the battery has its Own BMS. Iāll post a link to it. As well as the converter so we can see what the converters Output is.
Here is the exact battery Iām using
Here is the DC /Converter I have in hand.
DC-DC output is only 12V, wonāt work because the LFP 12V battery is made of 4 3.2V cells which are fully charged at 3.65V(14.6V) and depleted at minimum 2.5V(10V) but 12V would be 3.0V and thatās really more of the operational minimum.
Iām really surprised that converter doesnāt output 13.8V because you would never connect up lights etc for car/RV/golf cart to 12.0V because they would be relatively dim since the normal operating voltage is ~13.5-14.0V.
Besides, at 40A that is way overkill for what you would need/want. You have a big battery for what you need so I would look at what the quiescent operating draw is and get a DC-DC for that amperage and a ~13.5V output.
Ok well Iāll return that DC converter as planned. I didnāt wanna run that anyways but I thought If I have it and I could put it to use and get rid of my little trickle charger. I like your idea of a Timer. Cause when I first plug in the car to charge the Delta Q is pushing 12A and after a few hrs itās down to 5A or less. The way I use my car Iām never need it charged fast. So if it worked out that after a few hrs a timer kicked in and turned on the trickle charger that would be great. Do you have any links to the timer youāre talking about. Thanks
is that 12A on the DC side or the AC side?
Gotta be AC cause heā was talking about his AC wiring to his Delta Q. No?
Ever try the Marvel side? Not as dark or violent as DCā¦
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The Delta Q plugs into 110v AC. When I say 12A thatās what my BMC gauge shows Going INTO the Traction battery so would that be a DC or AC pull ?
That should be the DC side.
Mathematically, the AC draw would be a bit less.
I was thinking I could Add a 2nd 110v port for the Charger. I have few extras laying around so it wonāt be a big deal. Just a hassle to run a 2nd cord to the car
One 12 ga extension cord or two 14s or a 14 and a 16 are all the same when limited by the circuit on the wall of your house.
2 amp output on the charger for the audio battery is nothing on the input side. With transformer losses, itās probably less than 1 amp at 120vac.
If your traction battery charger is outputting 12amp, one you get past the inrush / startup current, if itās efficient, it may drop down to like 7-10 amps on the ac side.
Any chance you have a Kill-a-watt plug in meter/monitor you can just plug in to the wall and then run the chargers one at a time to get a number for each?
Electricity on paper is just math, mostly simple really. Itās when it hits reality without a real world check is how class C fires start.
@grantwest - Iām surprised you arenāt on some sort of 220 level 2 for your input power by now.
It makes it a little more complex to tap/patch in a simple NoCo stand alone charger for your 12v Acc batt. Do they have one that has 240 flexy power? (Iāll have to go look)
I have a 220 J1172 port on my car and charger in my garage. I just removed the charger when I went from 20 to 24 cell battery. And never modded my charger to do 24 cell. I just donāt need the fast charger???
I have a Fluke Amp Clamp so I could plug the car in and see what the car is actually pulling
You have the breakout or splitter for ac too? That will work
Something like this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Line-Splitter-69409/206799961
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