Iām pretty impressed with the Build quality on the sub. Even the cross over adjusters are protected from the Elements. It didnāt come with the Bass level adjuster. So Iāll get one and get started on beefing up my Electrical to handle the Bar and the Sub.
Well, under further inspection, my DC DC converter is not going to work. It only puts out a measly 40 A.. the sound bar is 300 watts and the subwoofer is 500 watts. Calculated says thatās 66 Amp draw. So a 12v Lithium battery it is
Says I would need 66 Amp converter. So I would defiantly be redlining that one
But thanks For sending that link
Why not keep the 5A fuse but run 98V up to the bar and then put a DC-DC buck-converter to step it down to 12V with a big fat cable. at 5A/98V youāre good for ~500W of power.
You know audio doesnāt really take that much. The ratings on most of that stuff is Peak at best. I have two 2500 watt Alto TS412 powered speakers in my train running on a pure sign wave inverter. With the volume at about 85-90% the readout on the inverter shows less than a 250w draw. The specs on the units you have donāt give a sound pressure level (SPL) that I could find and I would bet that unless they are really inefficient you will never draw the kind of power you think you will without real distortion. Also, think of how small the cart is.
If it were me, which it isnāt of course, I would consider something like dougl suggested. You could put this (Amazon.com: Cllena DC 40V-90V to 12V Converter Voltage Regulator Reducer 48V 60V 72V Step Down to 12V 20A 240W Converter Waterproof Buck Transformer Power Supply for Golf Cart Club Car LED Light : Electronics) one for the sound bar and use the 40 amp one you have for the sub. That will give you, I am pretty sure, more available power than you need, at least as much as the fuses recommended by Wetsounds.
By the way, I have one of those in the link in my train running misc lights and effects. Works great!
Iām trying to keep it Simple. My first thought was a battery and a trickle charger. But I had problems finding a 100 Amp lithium battery Holder. Yup plenty of holders for smaller lithium batteryās but the Average 100Ah battery (group 34) is like 12.88 long and most of the holders you can find hold a small lithium like 10inch long. I finally found a Battery holder that will hold a 100Amp He battery the way I want. $120 later for the holder and Iām In business.
This holder will bolt up where the factory 12v battery sits and hold my Big O lithium stereo battery. Great thing about a āstereo batteryā. Is Iām not worried about any Amp draw limitations a Dc converter or would have. I think when the bass hits on a big Note it might be to fast or to big of a draw for a normal DC converter to handle & after time I think that Bouncing off the DC converter every time the system draws down it would kill a normal DC converter. So Iāll Return the DC converter I bought & Go the Battery Route. I also bought a $30 Lithium 10amp Trickle charger for the stereo battery.
So far. Iām $600 into the Sound Bar, $150 for the lithium battery $120 for the holder, $30 for the Trickle charger. (I ended up getting the sub for free) so Iām. $850 into this so far Moving on!
That is indeed a way to do it and only $600 is pocket change for a rolling BamBam machine.
Well to be accurate itās $900, I forgot to add in the $50 Wetsounds Bass knob adjuster so $900 (so far) and if you count the Sub that I got for Free by Horse trading itās would go up at least another $500 I have all the rest of the stuff, Nice wire & Fused distribution. Iām not complaing Iām just sharing details. I love stereos and Good clean bass so if it sounds good it will be well worth it. Looking forward to sharing the build
Well I decided to ātry outā the system. Ya see the stock DC converter doesnāt have enough power to power EVEN the sound bar beyond 3-5 clicks up on the volume. So I have never been able to hear how loud even the sound bar gos because lack of power. Well I decided I could not wait I wanted a sneak listen. I decide to just run some jumper cables from my Trucks 12v battery to power both the sub and sound bar.
All hooked up and I can say, It sounds good. The bar produces very clean Mids and Highs. (Itās Not as loud as I had thought it should be?) the Sub definitely helps the sound bar out. I would say itās a Must to pair a Sub with this bar. My opinion of the sub is (itās OK) it does the job, but it falls a bit short if I am Honest. My 2c when ya start leaning on it the sub starts flopping around and the bass gets Muddy! I guess thatās to be expected. I guess I just have to lower my standards. Iām used to a system with 4-JL W-7ās with 1600 watts going to each one! I want some Bounce! And well Iām just gonna have to put that want on the back burner for now. Here is what my boat stereo looks like 
So I guess you can understand why Iām like Pffft, to this 1 10inch 500 watt little sub, LOL
Wow, that thing looks like a boat and itās a right hand drive at that. Great looking carpeting or flooring or whatever that is and cool dash!
Thanks. All threw High School I worksd at every stereo shop in town and then started doing Custom Installs myself. Always loved making stuff. I still dabble, You tube and Mini suns have caught my attention but I gotta just come to my senses. unless your going to install a Serious 12v system donāt waste your time trying to think your gonna install some serious Bump! Plus Iām sure the pounding Bass inside the gem is no good for the poor little Plastic body panels
Ha ha.. didnāt I elude to something along those lines. The boat install does look nice however..
The 100AH lithium battery showed up today along with the charger. Good news the charger Auto Starts. So Iāll keep that! And the battery looks like it will fit. We will see how it gos when the battery tray shows up. Me thinks itās not gonna fit and I might be able to make a simple strap system and fingers crossed return the Battery tray
this is how the battery will sit in the car
So Now Iām thinking 2 wetsounds 8inch subs. I made a cardboard (template box) to see how a 8inch sub would fit under each of the Rear seats. In between the 2 seats you have plenty of space, but Iām thinking 2-8ās would be more Bass then 1-10inch & if I can shoehorn them under the rear seats I get my floor space in the middle back. The Template box I made will not fit directly under the rear seat. The rear seats Slant back so the box starts to slide under the seats and then Makes contact 1/2 way back. (No biggie) I could raise the Entire rear seat bench Up 1 inch no problem. I would have to Cut a factory Seat support & then fab a new one but thatās No problem.
You have a dci charger in your car?
dci converter = 30 amps @ 13.5 volts. It charges acc 12v battery. The 12v battery will help supply peak loads.
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72 Volts
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12 Amps maximum
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72V to 12V DC To DC Converter (DCI)
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DCI Covnerter 30 amps max output. 13.5V
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For Lead acid (Wet/AGM/GEL)*
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AC input voltage ā 120 VAC / 230 VAC at 45-65 Hz
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AC input connector US IEC320/C14 (requires country specific cord)
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IEC320/C14 Universal 8 Inch AC inlet plug
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7ā³ SBS50 DC Output
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Signal For Battery Temp Sensor (Deutsch)
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Signal for NC-NO iLock Relay (Deutsch)
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Signal for Remote LED (Deutsch)
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10-segment LED for AC, 80%, 100%, Fault, Ammeter (6)
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Stores up to 10 user-Āselectable charge algorithms
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Dimensions: 11ā³ x 9.7ā³ x 4.3ā³
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Weight: 11 lbs
Is there some law of audio cabinet design that says a Sub must be a cube?
Take 1 inch off the back of the box (or more if you need it).
Front stays the same height to fit the speaker.
-or-
Can you lay the speaker horizontal and fire it straight up?
My car has a Delta Q with DCI. No other DC converter.
The box is longer then it is wide or tall so laying it in it back would only make it worse. Jacking up the seats is no big deal
Yes, good for 30 amps.