Park brake code 04 and 16. 04 comes on after contactor clicks in. Turn off key goes to 000 then code 16 comes on. Speed pedal does not activate wheel spin. Then buzzer comes on intermitingly
At KeyON, the controller goes through a series of boot/safety checks.
Code 04 is one of them. It will also light up the LED above the wrench indicating it is a wrench code.
04 is easy. It is telling you that your handbrake lever is set. Release the hand brake and the controller will continue with it’s safety checks. If all is clear, the Main Relay should close with a mighty snap and your are free to go.
The numbers you see when KeyOff are part of the shut down routine. They indicate miles on the odometer before it shuts down.
The 16 you see is probably not a wrench code 16.
I can’t get my o4 code to go off. I even tried wiring green and white/green stripe together. Now contactor won’t kick in. Thanks for any assistance, This thing has been setting for a while. Trying to get it going.
Now contactor won’t kick in.
Correct. The contactor won’t close until the -04 clears. It keeps you from driving around with your hand brake applied.
First - Try connecting the white wire direct to the B- lug on your battery. It is the battery furthest to the driver side with a (-).
Q- Does this car have the New DC Converter and wiring update?
Yes, I think it has the New DC converter, not sure of wiring update. by-the-way, I am using two 36 Volt batteries in place of 6ea, 12Volts. Still can’t get the 04 code to go off.
Yes, I think it has the New DC converter, not sure of wiring update.
Don’t just think or guess. When I ask, it is important for me to know if you want accurate instructions. Otherwise, I am just guessing too.
You need to go look and report back.
I am using two 36 Volt batteries in place of 6ea,
Interesting choice, but probably not the cause of your 04 issue.
Still can’t get the 04 code to go off.
I’m going to need a bit more info than that.
Otherwise you will get the same advice.
Did you try as I suggested above?
(White wire off the Hand Brake switch, direct to the B- post on your first battery.)
Yes, I tried that no change, Also sometimes I get 8888 flashing frantically(real fast) and sometimes I get a -16 code. All 12 volt systems seem to be working. On occasion I did get a buzz and the contactor would click but no motor movement with foot pedal. Turn off back on the -04 again.
Yes, I tried that no change,
Ok, Then the next thing to check needs to have both of the Upper/lower dash panels removed so you can get at the wiring over on the right hand side of the car.
Find/locate the 1x16 connector over on the right hand side of the car(down low). It was part of the original connection that went to the PWB (Printed Wring Board).
This connector sometimes gets oxidized and connections go flaky. The handbrake wire goes through this connector (pin8).
This might be wrapped in a few rounds of e-tape (which needs to be removed). Then pull it apart, spray it with electrical cleaner and put it back together.
If -04 still does not clear, then try connecting a B- wire directly to the little p8 window in the connector. (make sure you ONLY touch that window)
If you want to be safer, make up a little test wire with a 5a fuse inline. Note also that there will be a Y wire next to p8. Use that for ID/location reference.
→ Verify that the code clears when you do this (Y?N)?
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sometimes I get 8888 flashing frantically(real fast) and sometimes I get a -16 code.
The 8888 flashing/strobing is concerning. It may be an issue with the dash display, a connection issue between the dash and the controller, or it is sometimes not booting up correctly when keyON.
The -16 is another issue, but before I go down that path, Verify that it is an actual trouble code and not something else. If truly a trouble code- there will ALSO be a red light on the display above the wrench on the display.
→ Verify Wrench (Y/N)?
Pulled connection apart cleaned and replaced. No change. Connected B- with pin 8 (white wire) solenoid kicked in turned key off solenoid kicked off. I did not leave connection (B- to pin 8) key back on code 04 again. Key on -16 again key off back on I get 8888, key off 8888 says on. The only way to clear 8888 is master switch, Back on - key on -04 again.
Pulled connection apart cleaned and replaced. No change
This assumes everything is put back together at the handbrake switch and that you dropped the handle. Yes? What is the status of the handbrake loop and everything downstream?
Now that you cleaned the 1x16 connector, go back and jump the Wh/g and G wires at the switch to see if the 04 clears.
Connected B- with pin 8 (white wire) solenoid kicked in turned key off solenoid kicked off.
This is progress. The MC clack says the car is prepared to go. If this is consistent, then everything from the 1x16 to the controller is good.
Removing the jump/test wire from p8 should return the -04. You should not need to cycle key.
What happens if you give it a little pedal? Does the car try to move?
It is safer if you jack the front wheels off the ground.
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8888 → What is the time between the Off/On cycles when you are going through these tests? It is possible too quick of a Key cycle is confusing the controller.
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-16 → Did you verify that this is truly a Wrench code?
If you measure across the Pos and Neg on top of the controller, what is the V it is seeing?
Wheels off ground. Pushed pedal, no motion. Code went to -27. Removed B- and pin 8 connection) Key off- back on I get 8888 again, key off 8888 remains. master switch off - back on -04, no clack. BTW thank you so much for your assist.
It appears you have several issues going on here that need to be sorted out.
Fix one issue at a time. You seem to be missing or skipping over some of my suggestions.
If applying the jump directly to P8 consistently works. then take a step back and figure out what is missing. since there are two sides to the 1x16 connector, apply the same trick to the window on the other side of the block. (mking sure the connection between the two are good.
Follow the wh/g wire both directions. One will go into a harness that heads over to the controller. That wire should be ok.
Follow the other wire and it should go into a harness that heads back to the rear seat (and up to the brake switch). It might take a stop at a 1x6 flat connector. It yes, then do a clean on that one too. (this may have been taken out in the wiring update so don’t be bothered if you dont find it)
Then go back to the switch. Do the same jump on the Wh/g wire over to the B- and see if the -04 clears.
Found the pin 8 had no continuity from prong to wire. Jumped to bypass, ta da! Got my clink and -04 went to 100 then all zeros. Thank you so much. There are two wires disconnected in the back. 1 red and 1 yellow. They go up and behind the rear seat. Haven’t been able to get the rear seat out yet, Does that have anything to do with the motor not running? I tried the motor once I got all zeros, still nothing,
There are two wires disconnected in the back. 1 red and 1 yellow. They go up and behind the rear seat.
Those are not keeping your car from moving. I think the red one is for the center high brake light or an option that your car was not fitted with.
I tried the motor once I got all zeros, still nothing,
Confirm:
It sounds like your start up is now stable and consistent?
Is your Display showing any other errors? (before or after pedal press)
Main relay snaps closed at KeyON (when handbrake dropped)
No motor action when Pedal pressed?
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Attach your voltmeter (set to DCV) directly to your motor A1 and A2 and observe meter when pressing the accel pedal. Do you see V rise and drop with pedal?
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When PedalUP (released) does V drop to (near zero) fairly quick?
or slowly (after 10 sec or so)
Report back with your findings.
All zero’s before pedal pressed. -27 code after-- Relay snaps at key on - brake released- yes
Motor metered no pedal = 3.5 V DC (A1 - A2) Pressing pedal and releasing - no change in DCV -stays at 3.5
The car will not move if there are any codes on screen.
-27 is a runtime check/error.
12V controller internal buss is too low.
The controller converts it’s own 12v for its’ own needs.
Either something is happening to supply(input) voltage, or something is using more power than expected.
There are two external components that use this. One is the pedal, and the other is the speed sensor.
Unplug the speed sensor and try KeyON, brake down, pedal press again.
If no error codes, Leave your meter attached to the motor. If motor does not spin. I still want to observe the motor voltage.
Unplugged speed sensor, key on, pedal down code -27 - No spin; Motor voltage stays at 4.2 mV on meter
On that 3 pin speed sensor plug you will find R/G/Bk wires.
Can you probe the R and Bk wires and check V? (should be ~12v)
Place the meter up on the windshield or somewhere you can see it and press pedal. Is that V stable? or does it drop?
Red & Blk from spd ctrl = 5 Volts
Pedal dn starts at 8V gradually increases to 24 V while holding pedal down
Solenoid cycled a couple times. Code goes back to -27 - key off - back on code -16- main power switch off, back on solenoid clack back to code 000.
Red & Blk from spd ctrl = 5 Volts
Pedal dn starts at 8V gradually increases to 24 V while holding pedal down
??? This was ALL when measuring at the speed sensor?
-Or -
Did you switch back to A1 and A2 for the second part?