Ok checked everything and reconnected interlock wires and have not seen the 11 code come back. Drove around the RV park and all was well. This morning I felt confident and drove it to Albertsons. 4 mile round trip. Pulled into the driveway and stopped to talk with a neighbor for a couple of mins. Went to go and the 04 code was up. And no go. Hand brake was still all the way down as i had just stopped with the foot brake and was Just idling, so to speak, turned everything off and raised the hand brake. Then dropped the brake, turned the key on and still had ,04 code. PUSHED IT back to the RV, lifted the seat ( which will be getting Velcro soon instead of the wing bolts) inspected the brake switch - wires connected. Pulled the wires and ohmed out the switch and it is fine. Reconnected wires to switch and still have the 04:code. Bypassed the switch all together and connected grn and wht wires (yellow is just for the buzzer) turned the key on and code was gone. Reconnected wires to switch and all seemed ok. Put everything back together, got in to park it , got about 10 feet in reverse and got the 04 code and no go. Is there anything other than the brake that will cause an 04 code? I have a new switch, but haven’t changed it cause they both ohm out the same.
Remember back when I said the switch needs to be adjusted? This is what I was referring to.
It sounds like your switch is just barely setting, something flexes and it opens the switch contacts. Result → you stop.
Remember- That switch needs to be Closed to Go. (wires need to be connected)
Thanks, but I have replaced and adjusted the brake switch. But before installing it I turned the key on and worked it manually with no difference. Plus I even bypassed the switch and connected the wires and the 04 code is still there. There was one time when I turned it on and the relay clicked and no code. I pushed the pedal and the 11 code flashed for a second and then the 04 came back. I replaced the switch anyway ( after a trip to ace hardware to replace the nut that fell into the abyss) and I have the 04 code showing… I am sure the switch is not the issue. If I pull the dash, where will the wires connect to the car?
Ok, update: so i took dash off and found the wires. I pulled the plug at the pwb . Ohmed out the wires and the harness is fine. Took some sand paper and cleaned the pins coming out of the pwb. I took a welding tip cleaner and cleaned out the plug. Put everything back together and I now have zoom !! I guess 25 years of dirt , grease, and grime requires sanding as well as just wiping. If this happens again, I guess I’m going to suspect the pwb breaking down when it gets hot. On a separate matter, while I was doing this, I noticed that I am getting a lot of corrosion at B2POS, and B3POS, .ALL other cable connectors are clean as a whistle. Anything I can do to slow that down? I cut the cables back to clean and shiny and swedged new copper connectors on and I’m getting great voltage to the controller. .is the corrosion happening during use or charging or both…?
Then it might be a couple of bad connectors that push on to the handbrake switch. Cut, strip, replace, crimp new.
Don’t forget about those.
Yeah, thanks. I’m triple checking every wire and connector. This thing spends more time getting worked on than a Porsche I used to have. ANY IDEAS on the excessive corrosion issue. ?? Acid levels seem to be pretty constant.
Next time you hit those connections with a brush, give them a shot of anti- corrosion spray. It will put a light film over the lead and keep it from going fuzzy.
The other thing you should probably look at is why those two. They are probably getting flooded by gas from the nearest cell doing a bit of off gassing. Do you see any little droplets around the cap/vent?
Are those cells low on water? Or maybe overfilled?
Ok, kewl. Was thinking about dielectric grease cause of the disimiler metals, (lead, stainless, and copper). Acid levels seem to be ok, I will pay more attention next time I top them off. THERE IS a fair amount of moisture on top of the batts especially near the lead posts. Normally since the positives are involved, I would lean towards over charging, but the new charger has adjustable profiles and mine is set for high amp flooded L.A. I’m kinda new to E.V. so I’m experiencing a bit of a learning curve…
Yeah, somebody pulled a nitwit manuver and robably used sandpaper which destroyed the cosion resistant coating.
Lol, the car (and I use the word car in it’s loosest sense) is 25 years old. ( Hey! It’s a classic). Whatever coating that may have been was lost about 15 years ago. Thanks
My 02 didn’t have any corrosion.
Must be a nitwit manuver before you. 
Yeah, there’s a lot of us out there