Hi all, New to the group, lots of great info here. I have a new to us cart which I’m cleaning up and trouble shooting a few issues. First was the onboard charger, which I got squared away. But I’m having some intermittent issues with 2 error codes. First is the -04 code. I cleaned out to pedal assembly and cleaned the switch contacts, etc… which made it better, but not fixed. I ordered a new switch to replace it and hope that solves it.
Second is the -11 code. I notice that if I even touch the parking brake handle while driving the -11 code pops up and the motor shuts off momentarily and I can hear the disconnect (controller?) switch off up front. I can usually mess with it to keep driving but it keeps popping up and stopping the motor. I ordered a new switch for this as well (looks like the same switch) but in looking at the brake handle area briefly, do I access the switch from the top between the seats, or from under the car…? Any tips or advice is appreciated…!! Thanks !
Mixed up codes. Looks like.
Both of these are non-related but the -11 is caused by the -04.
The -04 is the hand brake safety switch. Not the foot pedal.
The -11 is a pedal check error. Technically - “Pedal Found Depressed” during startup routine. It keeps cart from running off when switched on.
You might try cheering it up with positive comments and maybe a funny joke. More drastic would be Zoloft or Prozac but consult your counselor.
[actually]
This happens during runtime due to the -04 trips it’s code, then clears. Then controller boots up the safety checks and trips over the -11 because your foot is on the pedal. You probably only need to pedal up to clear the -11 to continue.
To check this, locate the two wires coming off the top of your parking brake (Y & G). These two need to be connected to go. See if either code comes up again during a test drive or two. Pro Tip - Use an ATO automotive style blade fuse to temporarily join these two wires together. Probably only need a 5A fuse.
The problem with leaving these two wires connected (bypassing the handbrake switch) is that when you KeyOFF the buzzer will sound (if it has not already been disconnected). This buzzer is a reminder to set your handbrake before you walk away.
If the switch is working, all it probably needs is adjusting.
Thank you for the detailed info…!! I’ll try the easy way with the depressed pedal first. Maybe a nice night out… LOL That all does kinda add up. When the -11 code would pop up while driving I would let off the pedal for a second, then the cart would run fine then until the next -11 code. But the -04 code would pop up intermittently as well. And any slight jostling or movement of the parking brake handle would set off the code and shut down the motor, I could hear a distinct click at the front if I moved the handle at all.
Will I access the Y&G wires by removing the boot cover on the parking brake between the front seats? Or from underneath the cart?
Thanks…!
If you adjust the switch, or just bypass it temporarily and the -11 still trips when driving, this means the controller is being reset/rebooting by another means.
Usually this is due to a bad key switch(sometimes a big wad of keys swinging on the switch) or a bad connection somewhere in the key switch loop.
Report back with what you find.
On my 2002 the DC-DC converter upgrade put the 72V input to the Converter smashed up against the lower dash shell. That and the fact they got adhesive into the connector meant eventually a bump would cause a very brief glitch of power to the converter so the 12V converter would drop and the controller didn’t like that and I’d constantly get -11 and dead pedal until I released the pedal then off to the races until the next glitch.
It might have been a rare event but since it too was a 2002 there might be a chance it’s at play here. Although it really sounds like the e-brake switch.
Thanks… always good to get another avenue to look at. I’m hoping just the e-brake switch !
Well I got my new switch in the mail this evening. I wanted to try the bypass trick but didn’t have a chance to get at it tonight. I’m hoping that this is just an easy fix with the e-brake. But your comment about the key switch has me intrigued as well. The cart had a simple “on-off” toggle switch in place of the standard key switch… Now I’m also curious curious that this may be the issue if they didn’t wire it properly…??
I know how to fix your gem…
ah ha, the one and only and final fix for a 2002. I forget, does it get buried before or after being blown to bits and pieces? LOL
I think you mean you can fix his problem which is more how one fixes a bad appendix(assuming your surgeon uses flame throwers), not actually fixing his Gem car.
Well then I can assume this was not going to be the swinging keys theory. This does not need to be a complex switch, but all connections should be inspected.
You seem to have isolated an issue with the park brake with a random -04 code. Fix that first.
Being a new owner to a Gen1 Gem car you may not be aware there was a DC Converter upgrade/wiring update involved with your car. Depending on the status of the update on your car, it might be the next item to look at.
If you have not discovered the archives yet, Use the search tool(magnifying glass) found in the upper right of this page and enter a few key words (such as Wiring Update). Here are two good examples of past conversations.
I was able to expose the parking brake switch last evening by pulling up the boot cover. It should be pretty easy to jump the switch like you described earlier. Hopefully this evening… Hoping that is my only issue…!!
I don’t believe I have had the recall/update done. The prior owner mentioned that there was a wiring harness recall that I could get from the manufacturer, and in looking pics in the example links you provided, I believe I remember seeing the printed circuit board when I had the dash off to clean everything up. I emailed gemcar.com to see about getting the replacements…
Its like a mechanic in a can. Except it works.
I guaraneeeeee it!
Success…!!! At least for the first test drive… Instead of using an auto fuse to test it I just pulled the wires off the old switch and put them on the new switch and left it hang unmounted. Closed the circuit on the switch and used a rubber band to hold it closed. Powered up, no alarm codes…!! Took a nice long test ride and all seems good so far…! Now to mount the new switch and see what I get. It may be tough to get the old switch off as the car has aftermarket bucket seats and I don’t have much room to work with. Might have to pull the drivers seat to get it off. If it wasn’t for that pesky alarm when you turn off the car I would probably zip tie it closed and just tuck it under the brake boot and leave it.
I still want to get the converter and wire harness upgrade though…
I’ll let ya know the final results but fingers crossed this nailed it…