I am driving and without warning the -11 code is triggered. Other times it happens when i turn the key before i start to drive even when the accelerator is not pressed down.
To put your problem into proper perspective, the -11 is one of the controller safety checks it does at startup. In this case it is detecting a pedal not at zero (up) when it boots up. This keeps the car from suddenly going through the garage door when you KeyON. The error typically clears by cycling the pedal UP, then you can go (exactly what you are doing).
If you are getting this error while in motion it means the controller is losing power for some reason and causing it to reboot (finding your foot on the pedal and throwing the code.
The trick is finding out why the controller is glitching. This could be your key switch, your Key relay, bad connection anywhere in the KeySwithc circuit/ interlock wiring, or even in dougl instance, a bad connection in the DC Converter wiring. I suppose it might even be in the 72v power system(battery connection, main relay, power switch, etc), but i think it would show as other error first.
My question is where wouldyou recommend i start to try to find the issue?
Check your key and key ring. You won’t believe how many times people have had keys swinging on the switch and it momentarily turns the GEM off and back on.
Next would be to check the throttle peddle. The 2002 cover comes off by pushing on the pivot pins. Check connections and maybe just replace the switch.
Subject: 2002(Gen1 car).
Does this car have the DC Converter Wiring Update?
I would start at your KeySwitch.
(The directions will change depending on how you answer the wiring question above).
With also a directed nudge towards your foot pedal. (since you mentioned that it sometimes does this right at KeyON). It sounds like it might have the standard bit of floor grit jamming up the works.
The Std Factory 00~04 Gen1 wiring was based on a DC Converter which was open faced and showing exposed components. This was called the PWB (Printed Wiring Board). It was mounted in the lower dash area on the passenger side. Accessing the PWB is best with the upper and lower dash panels are removed but you should be able to see it with just the top dash removed.
There were 2 examples of this PWB/DC Converter that were open and considered swappable under the NTSB recall, and a third that was encased inside an aluminum box with potted epoxy ends (which may not be under the recall order). I believe all three of the PWB versions are swappable in the car harness without too much rewiring.
If you have the DC Converter wiring update, the PWB has been replaced with a DC Converter (usually SurePower- black box with fins), a Delay Off timer (12v acc relay), and a funky looking relay(12->72v Key relay). and needed some minor rewiring of the Key/Interlock wire, and a moderate rewire/repath of the 16pin plug that previously jacked on to the old PWB.
The -11 code now comes on even before I press the pedal. Turn the key everything is fine and as soon as I press the pedal the code turns on.
This statement actually contradicts itself and hurts my brain. I suspect a rip in the fabric of space/time around the area of your glove box. Proceed with caution and attempt to relocate the anomaly back to the lint filter in your dryer where it should be happy relocating only left socks.
