Ok, so a couple of weeks ago after installing the repaired charger I got a -11 code. Assy required suggested that the pedal was partially engaged when I turned it on. Ok. I’ve been really careful to make sure my foot is on the brake or somewhere else other than the pedal when taking off. About a week ago I got the code and it stopped. I turned off the key switch then back on and it was ok. Made several trip in and around town with no issues. This evening the wife and I got in to go to dinner, we made it about a hundred yards and everything died and the -11 code was staring at me. It would not go away and I wound up pushing the flipping thing back to the RV. And parked it. We got in the truck, went to dinner, came back and it worked just fine . I’m now at the point where I can’t trust it… Not that I can’t use the exercise, but I would really like to create a situation where I can get from point a to point b without having to push this thing. NOT TO MENTION the embarrassment of all the neighbors watching me push it home. The first time I just said I was testing the speedo, but that excuse isn’t going to fly much longer … all kidding aside… Any ideas on what I should be looking for. ??? I’m going to check the connections, but I don’t think it’s an issue as when I pressed the pedal it started to engage before the code came back and there was no zoom
It is important to note exactly WHEN this code appears.
Code -11 is part of the start up sequence/ safety check that the controller does when KeyedON. If it finds the pedal down when booting, this will set the code -11 and not let the car go. It keeps the car from sudden runaway starts.
Usually, just lifting the pedal will clear the code and pressing the pedal again will allow you to go. A KeyOFF power cycle is not needed-AFIK.
The other part of my previous suggestion (besides where you foot is) was to see if there was anything down there that may be keeping the pedal from coming all the way back up? (floor mat, rocks, beach sand, beer bottles). There could also be a bunch of oddities inside the pedal. It might be worth taking it apart.
The second scenario is when the -11 happens when driving. This means the controller operation was halted for some reason and went through another safety check. When it came back around to the pedal check, it noted that your foot was on the pedal and gave you the -11.
Again, lifting your foot should clear the code.
A few things will trigger a controller reboot.
- Loose connection. When you put your charger back in the car, you attached tow little wires to the top of your Zivan. This is pat of the interlock and basically the key loop. Make sure those wires/connectors are properly connected. It is real easy to get one offset, but still wegied on to the side of the connector and plastic insulator. I think a big clue here is that the car may briefly beep (thinking the key is off and handbrake down)
- Key switch going bad. Very sensitive or needing to fiddle with it to go on. (again, you may get a chirp out of the peeper)
- Handbrake switch was tripped. In another thread, you mentioned:
the hand brake has to be ALL THE WAY down before the 04 code goes out and the car will move.
Check and make sure the handbrake switch is not too sensitive.
Hey, that explains a lot, thanks. Before I only mentioned hand brake cause I was checking everything to see what helped. Hand brake circuit is working fine. Has to be all the way down before 04 code goes off and car goes and cleared the area around the pedal. I’ve made sure my foot is on brake upon start up. This last time I drove in turf mode , hit a bump on gravel road and got the code. It would not clear. Depressed pedal a few times to make sure it sprung back, hand brake engaged and then back down key off and back on to restart boot up and still had code. Oh yeah, no beeps or anything audible at any time. Pushed it back and parked it. About half hour later got in car and all was well this morning I lifted dash and removed and replaced both interlock wires even though it was working. I drove it around the RV park hitting every bump and rut I could find and it is working fine. Hopefully removing and reinstalling the interlock wires is going to work. It’s noteworthy that this did not start happening untill I reinstalled the charger. If it happens again, I will bypass the charger and connect the interlock wires . I’m thinking about replacing the key switch with a hidden toggle switch if it happens again after that… If not the interlock circuit or key switch circuit being broken, where would you look next. Yes I have checked all other connections (visually and wiggling) and nothing apparent jumps out thanks, john
Do you know if this car has the wiring update and new DC Converter installed?
Look over on the right side under dash.
You will either have the green board PWB or the Black Box with fins (surepower DC Converter).
PWB - Printed Wiring Board
Surepower DC Converter
Hard to tell without taking EVERYTHING apart, however from the top I can not see anything with cooling fins or a printed circuit board. All I’ve got is a big aluminum brick with a bunch of wires connected at the bottom. Directly behind the inline fuse is nothing but empty space. Took pics, but my new high dollar phone is not recognizing my photos. ( What else is new?). I’m gonna have to run over to the Verizon store and see if they have a ten year old around who can fix it . I’ll get you some pics as soon as I can, but as far as I can see, mine isn’t like either of the pics you sent
These pics are more around the far right and low.
One other indicator that you might see would be the presence of a couple of unique relays. If your car HAS been updated then it will have ***these: ***
Key Relay
Accessory/Timer Relay
I’ll have to take everything apart to get anything else … Will take a day or two
Ah, Ok.
You do NOT have the updated wiring, but at least do NOT have the open PWB/converter.
That silver box is the third generation potted PWB.
When you get a few minutes. It might be worth pulling those connectors, and looking for loose/bad connections.
You might KeyOn and slowly moving wires around and listening for stuttering clicks.
Yeah, the last time I had everything off, I blew off all the dirt and stuff I’ll run down and get some more electrical contact cleaner and pull, clean, and reconnect everything. Thanks
Just checking status. Any changes on this?
Ever since I made sure all the connections were good, like you suggested, after getting the hard 04 code, everything has been fine. Thanks for the follow up !!