New charger and dash "Gauge" won't show charge

It’s an Allied Battery 72v lithium charger. Only has two wire output for batteries. Where should I connect those so that the cart notices the charge? It’s a 2006 e4.

Help please, I would love for the dash to work.

Two things need to happen to get the Dash display to work properly.

  1. You need to attach the charger on the correct side of the shunt so the cart can see the current flowing into the batteries. Do you remember exactly where your old charger was wired up? Black wire was probably on the NEG of the controller and the Red was on the front left connector on the PSDM (Bat + Pos).

  2. You need to tell the car it is in charging mode by activating the interlock.
    The interlock/circuit/loop/trigger wire passed through the original charger and controlled this wire depending on if it sensed if it was plugged in or not.
    I doubt your new charger has this ability so you need to control this wire yourself. Your new routine will be - Plug in car, flip switch to charge… unplug car, flip switch to run. The uber creative can usually figure out a way to do this with a relay and a tap to the charge cord wire.

Q- Is your original charger still mounted in the car?

It was wired in the same place. Positive on the battery side of solenoid (which wires right to the Bat + of the PSDM) and Neg on the bottom right of the PSDM (Bat -). The charger is under dash and you are correct, it does not have the interlock wire from it. I think the interlock wire from the dash is wired so that if the key is on it thinks it’s not charging (I don’t remember if it’s grounded or on a positive connection). I will work on the switch or relay I guess. Maybe do a temp to see if it fixes it. I have a shunt and gauge I installed so I can see SOC but would like the dash to work and the turtle to stop flashing.

Thank you.

Maybe I should ask, does the interlock wire need to be hot when charging (and what voltage, 72?) and not when running? or the other way around?

Ok, then it sounds like the step you are missing is for a 2006+ car, that interlock wire needs to see B+ for the car to go, and removed off B+ for the car to charge.
The turtle should also clear and the controller will release you from limp mode and back to normal.

Oddly it’s not in limp mode (I don’t think) but the turtle has been hanging out for a long time.

Thank you, I will wire it up tonight and see what happens. After charge will reset SOC and go test the new brakes and motor… Long story but it seems everything went at once and now I’m 5k deeper into this thing.

Welcome to the rabbit hole.

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It’s sad but parts for brakes are impossible to get. I had the disks ground, like a flywheel as cutting them would remove too much, $160 each. I had the calipers rebuilt, $100 each, and the master cylinder rebuilt as well, $200. New pads and repack bearings… Rears are easy to get but expensive, just replaced entire drum/hub/stub axle. Should be good for years now… I did find a new set of calipers and one disk… Will save so I never have to do them again, or sell if someone is looking but they are not cheap at all.

Had to pay to check throttle and got the controller rebuilt. Ugh. Then replaced speed sensor and magnet. Still no go. Took motor apart, it was bad. So upgraded the upgraded motor (Talked to the guy at D&D and got one called the Beast, it’s like 3" longer and heavier), I can lay 10’ of rubber now. Not sure that’s what I was looking for but I’m sure I can tow a 6000# boat now.

Thank you for your help, now maybe I can get the stock “Gas gauge” working.

Stupid question. The charger Neg lead goes to the PDSM where the battery neg comes in. Should it go where the neg comes out of the PDSM (Just below it where it is now) or move to the neg on the controller? The PDSM does not seem to recognize the charge, and I did the switch for the interlock like you recommended and that works.

Behind those two posts is the shunt. It monitors the current(amps) consumed out of the battery. When charging, it needs to see how many go back into the battery. If on the wrong side of the shunt it never sees them.

So Yes- It needs to be on the controller side (not the battery side).

You seemed so confident on where you found the original charger wire that I did not even question it.

My notes say that it needs to be on the lower connection on the controller.

Ok. Thank you.

I was pretty confident that I had it where the old one was too. Guess I was wrong. I’ve had so much of it apart and it’s been down for months… I’m not surprised I messed it up.

Thank you for the help.

What a coincidence, me too…

Wait, you’re talking about motors?


Do you know if the bolt on the batt connection can be replaced? I broke it. Drilled and tapped a #10/32 into it but would like to replace… Ugh.

Wow. I really laid that out there didn’t I?

Ugh- I hear that happens. Your repair may be ok since the connection on the inside is about the same. Keep an eye and maybe a quick touch on it after a good run to see if it is building heat. It’s not totally about being tight enough, but more about being clean and surface area of the contact.

I think that stud is either molded into the housing or pressed in. If it becomes an issue, let me see if i can figure out a fix.