When weirdness shows up, (especially on three instances) I fall back and check my test device (the meter) or procedures. Make sure it is working properly or possibly not on the correct setting?
But also know that these things can be checked through some simple steps in the car systems.
If the controller detects a problem with the MC it will throw a code.
If the handbrake switch or it’s related wiring has an issue we will see it and come back to it.
You kinda jumped mid point into the mystery novel here without getting character development.
Put it all back. I’ll step you through it.
Sorry guys. I had written a response but never its send.
Have you tried dropping the hand brake?
Verify that the brake light on the dash goes out (it was showing active on your dash display. Yes- this will keep the MC from closing)
If handbrake light is out, Then press the pedal a bit…
I have done lots with the hand brake. The microswitch works fine. I thought i was correctly following the red/white and cream wire back up into the cab. That is where things went weird. I see now that those two wires take a detor.
I may have said in the past that "i have never seen the brake light shown as on in the display.
I think now that the brake light has always been on. It is just not very bright. It never goes out if in fact it is actually on.The seatbelt light is also dim. But i see it eventually go out.
I have also never seen any codes displayed on the screen.
I will be looking for a new contactor. There must be something out there cheaper than $223. I see it is 72v. What amps is it rated for.
Jar Jar Java. I wrote the lengthy reply because i thought many of my questions were going un answered.
One example was. Can i do a short test of the unboard charger that is not set up for lithium with the LFP prismatic cells I
Someone somewhere suggested that i push in the accelefator then turn on. And look for a code 11.
I did not see a code displayed by the pmh numbers.
I have never seen a code displayed. Not even with 66v
Oh Hey! You are back! I almost wrote you off.
Are you done messing around and want to get down to business?
*Just because you are new-
That JarJar comment was part of the good natured ribbing that sometimes
goes on. Just be glad you don’t have a Gen1 car. He has a special solution for those cars.
The attempt of pressing the pedal on Startup was another attempt at intentionally throwing a code 11. It is a “Pedal Down at Startup” check. It keeps the car from running away at KeyON.
Is there a safe way to jumper the large orange wires on the contactor. So i can see if the controller and motor works?
And it was mentioned to check the 8 motor brushes.
Besides disconnecting batteries and removing the silver perferated cap at the end of the motor. What shoul i look for? And do the need lubrication or should the be kept dry? Yes, the part of the brush that touches the armature does not use lubrication.
You are in information overload. Stop for a minute. Take a breather.
Go grab both ends of your meter, close your eyes and say the word “Ohmmmmmmm” a few times.
(electrical humor)
Update. I now have had the wheels turning twice. Both times i ran into a code 81.
Something about speed sensor. Unplugging and connecting worked the first time. But not the second. Second time i tried dialectic grease on the two connectors on end of motor. And the large connector on the controller…
Next i decided to try the charger for just a few minutes for the first time.
I believe the charger is set up for flooded batteries. I have 23 LFP prism cells at 3.28v pack 76v
After a number of lights cycling. . It settled down to one yellow light on and one red light that flashed continuously and stead. It flashed red 29 times before i turned off camera an unplugged the charger
