lithium battery possibilites for a 2015 e4

At some point i did drop the emergency brake lever.
I currently have the dash removed and the front and back covers.
I did set the rear cover in place and hooked up all the electrical lines.

Getting back to the dash. The only wires i disconnected when removing the dash and kick panel. Were the 12v power port and the wires doing to what i believe is a red flasher button. I wont be home until Wednesday evening experiment.
Does any one have pdf of the service manual or a wiring diagram?
Thanks…

If using lfp cells, 24s is minimum.

In Post 13 above ^^ I asked for your email address.
Perhaps you missed it?

I was told 86v was the highest the pack voltage should go.
What max and minimum cell voltagrs arevrecomendef fot Lfp batteries

Yes, i did miss it.
I was able to download it from a Gem fb page.
I looked briefly through some electrical diagrams. It looks like the contactor for sending power to the controller doesnt have much in it that would keep it from closing. Brake switch and something else.

Thanks…

I looked briefly through some electrical diagrams.

Actually, the electrical system is quite complex and it takes more than a quick look to fully comprehend and appreciate everything it does and why.

I have been trying to guide you through the diagnostic steps, but you seem to miss half of what I have been suggesting. This is not a direct path to success. You might get lucky. I hear the monkeys are still working on the complete works of Shakespeare too.

Or- You can blindly poke around at a few things, and possibly do damage to some critical (expensive) components.

Your call.

Comment…“I find it odd that most of the cart world is just now ramping up with their Drop-In multi battery kits and it will be interesting to see what happens with all of that especially with their 10 year warranties”

Me) What is odd about your above statement?

…………………………………………

Comment…“It looks like the charger you pictured in your post(DQDB) is one that can be programmed for different profiles and higher voltages.”

Me) I attempted a google search for DQDB charger and almost nothing came up.

I did see some where a $100-80 kit for programming. I dint have tome to look into what it was for or what it could do.

………………………………………………………………….

Comment…“Note that much of the battery tech has been found to be problematic here and tends to be worn out in about a year. I don’t think anyone here is still running Lifepo4 and has moved on to other things with more promise.”

Me) Why would prismatic cells be worn out in a year? Are they being charged by a none lithium compatible charger?

I have already spent thousands on different kinds of Lithium batteries. I am not going to go out and spend $3000 on a set of lithium batteries until i learn why prismatic cells are failing in a year.

…………………………………………………………………

Comment… “.IMO- Your Gen1 Leaf cells at 66% may not be worth the effort. It is up to you.”

Me) What would be the downfall to using the 66% leaf cells? I dont need to go 25 mph. and i dont need to travel 22 miles. I paid $500 dollars for the 2012 leaf that had a 33 mile range. What can i expect from 10 Leaf cells At 66%. I can always put in 20 cells. 10s 2p.

……………………………………………………………

Comment…“The Rivian modules sound like an interesting choice but I don’t know anything about them. The guys here smarter than me figured out that the classic gems really enjoy running higher voltage. 88 to 90v is a great upgrade”

Me) I have been told by someone in the Gem forum to not go above 86 v.

The Rivian modules are 17x24x8 15kwh each. 150 lbs each. Nominal 44v,12s x i think 7p

……………………………………………………………………

Comment…“Decide on a build plan for your car. What is your car going to be? What environment will it be living in?”

Me) My goal 6 months ago was to buy, build, or modify something into the smoothest riding golf cart possible.

Possibly AWD with a second electric motor for the rear, lifted a little with long travel suspension. Biggest widest tire on the smallest wheel possible that will fit. If I need to modify the fenders, so be it. Tall sidewalls are to smooth out the ride with aired down tires. I was even thinking of possibly building my own tube frame. And put on some VW bug/ Beatle body panels.

Air suspension seats and air suspension shocks.

I will very rarely if ever carry 3 passengers. So the rear floor and under the front seats is a possible option for batteries.

My unit does not have heat which I definitely want to add. Living in Minnesota you go golfing any time the courses are open.

AC would be a plus . But most likely will be a container of ice with some duct-work blowing cool air on our faces.

…………………………………………………….

Comment…“You will also need to learn more about what you have.”

Me) 2015 e4 Gem. Flood damage Copart insurance auction from Florida. It has sat for a year just north of Minneapolis. All 6 batteries were cracked open due to freezing. Polaris batteries. No title, certificate of destruction. There was a water line drawn about 6 inches up the front seat bench. The cart appears to have nearly 1000 miles on it. The under side of the carts aluminum frame did have a white chalky substance that did taste salty.

before purchasing i found instruction on how to apply voltage directly to the motor, bypassing the controller. The owner briefly but 12v to it and the wheels did slightly turn. He immediately removed the power. The owner had charged the 12v batteries individually the day before and said he did get the screen to light up. But the screen went blank as soon as pressing the accelerator. The rear brake drums did have some white deposits. I don’t know if the motor was submerged. They were giving the cart a power wash when i arrived.

Tires look very good.

No doors.

……………………………………………………………………………….

Comment…What motor is in this car?

Me) I will add pictures.

…………………………………

Comment…What gear set is in the gearbox?

Me) I will add pictures.

……………………………………………

Comment…What is your skill set?

Me) 60 years old. Went to trade school for 2 years for HVAC . Installed furnaces and air conditioners for a year. Then building maintenance for 3 years. Then a stay at home Dad for 13 years. Purchased many $500 dollar cars and fixed them up and drove them for a couple of years before selling for a $1500 profit . I have only owned one new car.

The others have been 10 years old or older. In 44 years of owning cars. I have only brought them to a mechanic 3 times. The first time I was 18 and my 1987 Plymouth Horizon died on the way home from very religious private party. This was long before the internet and paid $600 for a ECM. My second car going to a mechanic was a Nissan Stanza Wagon. On the way back from South Carolina during the Minnesota Great Halloween Blizzard of 1991. My alternator died in Wisconsin . My car cranked real slow after a gas stop in Wisconsin. The temps had dropped to Zero F for highs and the highways were covered with 6 inches of ice. 36 inches of snow had fallen over three days. I purchased a new battery there , not knowing the alternator was dead. The battery got me to within 10 miles of home when the radio quit working. I quickly turned of the blower fan off. A few miles after that the car started sputtering, Luckily right at an exit ramp. It died Half way up the ramp with a garage at the top. I took the battery out and they charged it and we drove home :slight_smile:

I had no garage and the book said it was a 5 hour job.

The third was a 1995 Subaru outback that I also had picked up after a crash . The Ticking sound turned out to be the flex plate. It had literally cracked all the way around. then shifted and jammed itself in place with an edge sticking out that was ticking something. I had a garage put in a new flex plate.

I took the roof off of my house and put in floor trusses for a floor . Then hired a framer to put up the walls and rafters and all sheathing. After that i finished the rest. Electrical, plumbing sheet-rock trim windows roofing siding I also built a detached garage with only the help of a guy who pumped in concrete from the street.

My one new car had its transmission fail at 135,000 miles. A 2001 Honda transmission. With one very good YouTube video i rebuilt the tranny. After 60,000 miles it is still going strong.

Its been years but i have painted a couple of cars. I have built a couple of desk top computers.

I grew up helping my dad fix our hand-me down cars from his siblings.

My memory/recall from reading and spelling has sucked since grade school.

……………………………………………

Comment…What is in your tool box?

Me) Nothing fancy

But enough to get car repairs done. This includes a 60 year old oxyacetylene torch and a Lincoln 125 wire feed welder. Not skilled with them. But functional…

I have been watching way too many YouTube videos on electric cars and electric conversions the last 4 years.

My license plate is GOLFISH I am either golfing or fishing with my brother. We have been doing BWCAW canoe fishing trips for 40 years. (Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness). Or crossing the boarder into Canada’s Quetico Park.

Comment…"Here is where it gets tricky when designing your own pack. This is why I suggested you to study up before you jump in on a project like this.

20 is not going to be enough.

Also- are you running a BMS?"

Me) Right now i am just trying to get the wheels to turn. And figure out what works and what doesn’t. After that i will work out the other details.

When you say something like “ 20 is not going to be enough” You need to add why it is not going to be enough. Especially to a newbie.

Otherwise you just raise more questions. Like, will I loose range? Will I lose acceleration? At what pack voltage will it quit all together.

My wife is exceptionally smart. Too many times when I ask a question. She will answer the question she thinks I should have asked. And never answers the question I asked without prompting. And that happens often on online forums. The responders are well meaning and knowledgeable . But don’t actually answer the questions asked . And answer with information that is obviously beyond the specific knowledge of the person asking the question. Like” some are enjoying the benefits of running at 88-90 volts or higher” . But don’t bother to say how to obtain this voltage.

………………………………………………………

Comment…Are there any codes on your display now?

Me) I have not seen any error codes. I included earlier, three pics of the screen. When I first got the screen on with the 66v . There was a wrench on the display. That disappeared after getting 76v

The three pics where taken after getting 76v then hitting the trip button 3 times. I don’t know what the “E” is for on one of the pics of the screen.

…………………………………

Comment… “What do you mean by this?

The tail light harness?

Maybe the headlight harness?

Those won’t keep the car from going.

Anything else disconnected?”

Me) For ease of seeing everything and removing the batteries. I removed the rear cover and disconnected the wire harness leading to the back behind the cab.

I also remove the front cover assembly. And disconnected the wires leading to the headlights and anything else that required separating to remove the cover.

The top dash and lower kick panel is also removed. The only thing disconnected there were two wires going to the 12v power outlet and two wires leading to the red flasher button…………………………………………

Comment… “18-19s battery will error on low voltage unless over charged.

22s + will error on high voltage unless under charged.

21 is the sweet spot. Get by with 20s.”

Me) What is the voltage that will trigger a high voltage error ? And what voltage will trigger a low voltage error?

…………………………………………………………………

Comment… “I might be confused on what cells he is using.

I thought it was LFP, (maybe an Eve cell).)

Me) I have not decided which batteries I will settle on. Right now I just need to figure out if I can get it to move.

I have a 2017 complete crashed/totaled Leaf with I think a 30kwh pack with 48k miles. I have not put leaf spy on it yet to run a state of health.

I have complete and running 2012 leaf with a 24kwh 66% soh with a 33 mile range that I paid $500.

I have a 24kwh replacement leaf pack that was used for 1 year.

I have nine 15kwh Rivian modules at 44v nominal 24x17x8 150lbs

Why so many batteries ? ? ?

I want to convert a 4x4 to electric to plow snow. . I want to convert a Subaru Baha . a 40hp outboard, and maybe a 90hp Mercury outboard jet motor. And put lithium batteries in a GEM.

And maybe inbed the 9 Rivian modules into a trailer. And use it for camping or just extending range. And use it for charging other evs

Converting a modern gas car gets extremely complicated if you want to keep ABS and airbags and traction control working. All safety features I require. Plus I want the range to make it a capable vehicle and not just a show piece.

………………………………………………………

Comment… “Timf1981 - The cells have been sitting in my basement for a couple of years. And are down to 3.3

Hopefully that is not a Samsung cell. It needs a charge”

Me) yes, all my batteries need to be charge to be put in use. I currently am not set up to do any charging. But I am not planning on putting anything under load until I get everything working and in place.

………………………………………………………………………

Comment… “Have you tried dropping the hand brake(verify that the brake light on the dash goes out”

Me) The “brake light” is that in the center of the lower dash near the power outlet? I was thinking that was a hazard flasher button. That circuit will be the first thing I insect when I get a chance to get back at it.

……………………………………………………….

Comment… “If using lfp cells, 24s is minimum.”

Me) What is the peak voltage that you recommend charging LFP batteries to?

What is the max voltage a stock 72v gem handle?

What is the minimum voltage you want to run a LFP cell?

………………………………………………………….

Comment… “I looked briefly through some electrical diagrams.

Actually, the electrical system is quite complex and it takes more than a quick look to fully comprehend and appreciate everything it does and why.

I have been trying to guide you through the diagnostic steps, but you seem to miss half of what I have been suggesting. This is not a direct path to success. You might get lucky. I hear the monkeys are still working on the complete works of Shakespeare too.

Or- You can blindly poke around at a few things, and possibly do damage to some critical (expensive) components.

Your call.”

Me) Other than suggesting to drop the manual brake handle. I still don’t see any other “diagnostic suggestions” offered.

I was at my nephews house helping him fix his 2003 suv. I picked up an ecm at a junkyard, then pulled a mosfit out of it and soldered it in place of the burned mosfit in my nephews ecm.

The suv still would not accept the idle air control relearn procedure from my Autel scanner and wouldn’t take a manual reset either. Over a couple of days of trying different reset procedure and adjusting the tps to 0.44 volts. The car ran great for one day . Then it reverted back to its surging and high idle.

It was during a lunch brake I downloaded the service manual onto my phone Then scrolled through the electrical diagrams and took screen shot of the diagrams showing the contactor feeding power to the controller.

I am not bad with a multi meter. I am not a monkey sticking a long screw driver in there and shaking it around.

I knew enough to realize I really didn’t have a full connection from the battery to the controller. The pre charge circuit is mentioned quite often in the ev conversion videos. I had never worked on anything with It or seen it in a schematic.

I did resist putting 72 volts to the coil of the contactor that supplies power to the controller until I learned all the safety features that need to be in place are satisfied to send power to the coil.

This circuit is the only thing I need to focus on right now.

When I get it to close.

It will allow me to see if the controller and motor are in true working order.

Next would be the charger.

Is it working? What is its full function?

How to change it to a Lithium battery charger. And possibly run everything on a higher voltage.

I don’t need more speed and probably not range. But it will help me decide which batteries I want to use.

……………………………………………………………………

I think this covers every question and comment in this thread.

I hope this helps.

Thanks…






Daaaannng!!! I have been playfully accused of being the wordiest one here.
With this response I feel I might need to tear that merit patch off my sash and hand it over to you.

For me to step in and help, I tend to ask all kinds of (what may seem like) unnecessary questions in order to get a feel on who I am actually dealing with. I will adjust my responses from simple to technical depending on who is needing the help.

We get all kinds of people through here that range from those that just want the quick answers, get your car running, and disappear, probably flip the cheap car and make a quick buck. to those that actually want to learn stuff and actually end up becoming a valuable part of the community. If that happens we all profit.

The way you originally jumped in seemed like the impatient first type. Not that I wouldn’t have helped, but I was just trying to slow you down before you smoked something by poking at the wrong things.

Yep- I was sniffing you out. You have been weighed, you have been measured, and you have been found worthy.

This is going to take me a few passes and hits to answer back. If I miss something, feel free to point it out.

Possibly I should have been more obvious, but back up in post 2 I tried to point you to the archives(the magnifying glass tool). This was not a brush off, but honestly most of your questions are in the archives. True, sometimes it can be difficult to navigate if you don’t use the correct keywords and true,it takes a bit of time to poke around in there. There are decades of build threads from the legacy builders and guys much smarter than me. I spent a year in there figuring all this stuff out.


Me) I attempted a google search for DQDB charger and almost nothing came up. I did see some where a $100-80 kit for programming. I dint have tome to look into what it was for or what it could do

Yes- A few here have that kit. By loading a few extra profiles on it the DQ charger is actually quite a respectable charger that will handle a wide voltage range.


battery tech has been found to be problematic

Why would prismatic cells be worn out in a year?

LFP/Lifepo4 does not have a good reputation in here. Most of the gang went through LFP a few years back and did not see good results. Not too many (none?) are running it today. It might have been part due to being very difficult to keep in balance(affordable tech not available at the time), part due to not really being able to handle the loads these cars draw, but they all ended up too much of a hassle. Then the junk car packs started showing up and becoming affordable and following the chemistries that the big boys are actually using seemed like a better idea.

I find it interesting that the cart world is exploding with LFP drop in options today as a solution. Several people have gone against advice offered here and returned a year later asking more questions (search keyword allied). We can get into that later if you want, but since that is not what you are doing, I won’t expand further.


What would be the downfall to using the 66% leaf cells?

The space they take up, the work involved, They are already at 66% of their original 64ah. Range will be limited even on a stock cart.
Here is a snip from the archives. Date 2020.


Rivian Modules

I have been told by someone in the Gem forum to not go above 86 v.

Depending on who that was, they either don’t know, or you misenterpreted the answer.

Factory config of the Gem lower V is around 68v or it will throw a code 15 (as you already experienced)
Factory config High is around 86v. Any higher will throw a code 16.
The hot rod/legacy guys found out these things respond really well to higher voltages. Seems I remember they got a couple runs all the way up around 100v before too many components started smoking too much and they backed it all down. Those were fun times. Today, a comfortable mod is in the 88~90v range, but anything lower is still considered too if a battery is limited.
To run higher voltage above 86v a few tweaks are needed on the controller inputs to pass the code 16 check.

More coming tomorrow.
I need to shut down for now.

The Rivian modules sound like an interesting choice

This was in part, an opinion based on a complex formula using some of the components I mentioned above. The other batteries will work and you can do whatever you want, but I was nudging you in a direction that would be way more fun, has more potential, and a battery mordule that has not been messed with yet.

The comment is also based on a concept that if one builds with way more power than needed, it will already be there when called upon later. Feelings for the project will be more positive if the driver doesn’t need to worry about making making it back home (range anxiety is actually a thing). What I see quite often is that these cars can be so much fun that they get driven more than the plan. If your surrounding infrastructure supports the concept, the car sometimes slides into the role of being a primary vehicle or at least a good secondary candidate.

i don’t recall if you were asking an opinion or possibly I assumed?

Skillset - Impressive. I may come back and expand on your text later. But it will delay getting you to your end goal. → (Does it work?)
If you are weak in a direction/field, (wiring/electrical?) you only need to be able to follow directions.

Toolbox - That will do. (see Skillset).

My memory/recall from reading and spelling has sucked since grade school.

No grammar police here, although an occasional slip may be used to lighten a mood at your expense. Don’t take it as a personal attack. It might mean someone here may be day drinking and found a comment funny.

When you say something like “ 20 is not going to be enough” You need to add why it is not going to be enough. Especially to a newbie.

Yup- and I usually do. But in this case I saw a need for a quick reply hoping to trip the bull running towards the china shop. It was not fast enough because you did not see it, tried it anyway and got your code 15.

Build plan

We can get into the meaty bits later if you want opinions.
My first comment would be to echo again, it looks like the Rivian pack is going to be the obvious pack of choice. Your loads are going to be quite high with all the fun stuff you want to do.

to be Continued…

24 lfp is just standard for 72v replacing 6x12v.
2.8v min to 3.65 max. Math comes out just right for stock perfotmance.

I support the batteries I sell.
Love to see Rivian in a gem.
I can help you run at 88v nominal, reprogram your dq charger, etc.
Recommend a good bms. The Rivian plugs may be an issue. As you bought them all, I may not have sourced connectors. Or if I did, don’t remember. :slight_smile:

Inwo: “18-19s battery will error on low voltage unless over charged.
22s + will error on high voltage unless under charged.
21 is the sweet spot. Get by with 20s.”

Inwo’s comments were put out before we had actual working info on what you were playing with. Now that this is known(from your pic) more precise direction can be offered.

Hardware-

This car being a "salvaged car will have it’s issues. Some of them you may be chasing forever. It is enough to send most people running for the shadows.

This is why I was asking for signs and evidence of how high the water got and can make a guess to what might be a future issue.

It might be a good idea to start soaking all your lug nuts, axle nuts, various suspension components, etc. It might even bee too late.

It sounds like it might have spared your motor. Thet AMD 7.5 is probably the best DC motor you could be running right now. Know that even if it has low miles, it might be a good idea to pull it out on the bench (later) for a quick look and a monor service. Sitting(not running) is bad for these things and the brushes tend to stick in their holders. This motor has 8 brushes. I one of them is jammed you won’t be able to tell. I recently worked on one that had 6 of 8 that were jammed up. The motor still worked but it was not happy.

Gearbox -
According to my notes, Your gearbox label has a code that should be a 12.44 but there is a ? mark showing it is not verified yet.
We use this to calculate top speed given wheel size and how the car will perform.

When you start getting to working on your car we can check this ratio via the manual count method.

Controller
Your controller is a T5. (last two digits on your Cat#).

Do some research on that BMS if you really want to use it. I think it has a reputation to occasionally go off the rails every now and then. I might be wrong.

Ok, thanks for the follow-ups.
I learned a lot today on two fronts.

  1. It appears that my LFP BATTERIES have a diffetent working voltage range then the Leaf and Rivian cells
    What voltage range do i want for each?
    Rivian
    Leaf
    LFP

I also didnt know this was somewhat of a side buisness/hobby.

Now onto the Gem.
I disconnected the coil wires on the main contactor. And it was open. No continuity.
What should it be?

On the strange side.
The hand brake micro switch was working properly. But the cream and red/white wires come from the switch into the cab did not have continuity. Even going from going from one end of the cream wire to the other end at the connector in the cab. Same with the red/w wire.

And even stranger. With the hand brake wires disconnected in the cab. I was still reading 72 volts at the main contactor. Is this at all related to the pre charger?



Will this car work.

Suggestion: If you have a floor jack and a couple of jack stands, get the front wheels up off the ground. If this car decides to suddenly wake up I would not want reports on how grumpy your wife is after you ran across the garage and into her washer/dryer.

Going back up to prmary goal#1.
I’m not sure if it was selective text cutting or you skimmed over it, but there were actually three key points in a previous post that I was still waiting for input on. Let me arrange them different

If no other error codes on screen,

  • Have you tried dropping the hand brake?
  • Verify that the brake light on the dash goes out (it was showing active on your dash display. Yes- this will keep the MC from closing)
  • If handbrake light is out, Then press the pedal a bit.

Either the MC will then snap closed or another error code may come up on your dash display.
Verify results.

68v to 84v to make the controller happy. We run our cars up to 96 volts.
LFP are about 2.8 to 3.7 volts
NMC 3.3v to 4.15v…

Searched coil ohms. First up was 420 ohms. Use search glass top right.