Did you find the batt temp sensor in the battery compartment?
When you say “After a number of lights cycling”
What is it exactly doing? Another blink code? (like a code 14 in green lights?)
Or is it chasing the lights, top down, then back up again. (this is normal boot test)
Pink wire went up the “A” pillar. I think to overhead radio.
The other pic is of the r/w and cream colored wires in the bundle of 4. Then another r/w wire un the 3 bundle. I was thinking the r/w and cream were coming straight from the micro switch on the ebrake. But they make a pit stop at the two relays on the firewall
I sent a movie of the chager blinking in an email. It wouldnt load while in the forum
If you go back to where you were holding the pink wire-
look at the connector that is crimped on the end.
Is that not a Red/white wire also attached to that connector? That is the wire I was looking for.
But don’t get distracted by that. We figured all that out.
Your new issue now is that -81. That is a speed sensor issue. If you checked the connectors and the problem does not clear after a key cycle/reset, then they are easy enough to replace.
I have seen a recent experiment where the tech had success at spacing out the magnet with a washer so it extends into the sensor a bit more. Make sure that magnet bolt does not bottom out in the sensor cap.
But you should still check out your motor as suggested. If you observed blue flame during the tests then it probably won’t fix itself.
I recorded a video of the motor sparking a lot. My phone saves it as an “mp4” file that will not load here. Android phone. Any idea how to resave it as one of the formats lowed here?
!
The motor pic is a screenshot from the movie.
It’s not important. Learn how to do that later. I don’t really need to load a 14mb movie to now what is wrong.
Focus your energy on fixing your problems instead.
Motor is out.
Holy crap it is heavy.
You guys need to switch to AC motors
I have a kit. Are you seriously considering a motor swap?
Motors that fit the transaxle are limited. I do have a ME3031 PMAC that fits. 50 peak hp.
Not from your current battery though.
I suggest a modest 5kw Polaris Gem induction motor. We get 15hp when used with a good battery and Sevcon controller.
Any motor swap needs to be tuned in the car.
Rodney may be able to rebuild it or have a rebuilt replacement.
Do the brushes need to be removed first?
I have not been able to find a good video on this motor
Disassembly was successful. Nothing broken in the process.
Three brushes looked cracked.
All 8 brushes appear to be stuck.
Everything has been sprayed with PB blaster. Rotor, stator,brushes, everything.
What is the next step?
Looks like you will be needing at least a few new brushes.
I’m not sure PB Blaster was the best to soak the whole thing down with, but ok.
If you want to spend some time playing with this, See if a bit of gentle wiggle will dislodge those brushes. As noted before, they are quite fragile and can break/chip easily. Practice on the cracked ones first. Use a drift or nice solid handle screwdriver to transfer small tapping direct to the surrounding HOLDER (not the brush itself). Object is to rattle loose any corrosion/oxidized material that has grown in there.
Note that the springs have a little tab up near the top that will hold them up out of the way in service position.
