Thanks for the info. I’ll keep that handy in case my e-brake switch goes on the blink. Trying to get up and running again, so the PWB is the priority. Easiest, quickest option is optimal, but know that no dealers in Nevada will be helping - made multiple calls already.
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Hey Guys another new member interested to know how Rokitman was able to get his cart running again. I have a 2004 GEM that was working fine and now when I turn on the Master switch I get the all 0000’s in the BDI and then it goes blank. The Motor Controller has 72VDC from the B+ and B- posts when tested. I do have the 12v circuit working on mine. Look forward to hopefully not having to send off the controller for repair hopefully.
@rknapp - 1. How much did you follow the steps above?
-
Do you have the open circuit board over on the pass side of the dash?
Or the Dc Converter/wiring update installed? -
What has changed that may have caused this?
HI thank you for your response. I was following the service manual guide for vehicle drive troubleshooting chart and Step 6 was reached and there was 72vdc at the B+ and B- terminals of the Motor Controller.
I live in Orlando FL and the cart was outside at my business during huricanne Ian but a used it 2 times after that with no problem and when I looked inside the electrics and controller area there was no moisture or water. I do have the upgraded black box with fins 12vdc to dc convertor.
The convertor is the SP Industries convertor.
@rknapp - see PM (your avatar- Upper right of your screen)
(the big pink R)
Hi rknapp, You are in good hands with AssyRequired. He helped me a lot. I did get my GEM going again, but it turned out to be a bad PWB board. Luckily it was under recall still and only cost me a tow ride to get fixed. AssyRequired helped with the troubleshooting. I did not need anything else even though the troubleshooting guide said it was a bad controller.
HI guys,
New to this forum,
I had my 2002 Gem Car with original DC/DC board melt/ go on fire yesterday. I acquired a used upgrade harness as well a SurePower controller with timer, relay, and buzzer. After following the PDF upgrade instructions, my 12v circuits work now. But I cant get it to move.
When powered on it is flashing 0000 then goes blank.
When is when not in turf mode, there is a constant buzzer, I have 72v at the batteries, If you could please help me troubleshoot, I would greatly appreciate it,
Thank you!
That is the first good sign. It shows the controller is getting B+ and precharging properly.
Next- you should go over to the right side of the dash and look for 12v to make sure the DC Converter is active. You should find it on the orange wire going to the Acc/Timer relay. It is a square module with a mounting screw running through the middle. It will have 4 wires going to it. Org, Blu, Grn, and Black.
→ Test for 12v on Org and Black, or Org and ChassGnd.
Verify-Y/N?
Any update on this? I’m having the -4 error and it won’t run. 2000 e825
Hey Nrtle. Welcome to the group.
-04 is “handbrake applied” error.
You are correct. It will not run with that on your dash.
Start by locating the microswitch at the base of the hand brake handle. Pull off the white and the green wires (note where they were attached). Connect those two wires together(a handy method is to use a spare 10a ATO fuse).
Does the error clear?
If Yes, then there is something wrong with your switch or its mechanical action when the handle is lowered. Does it need adjustment?
If NO, Then there is something wrong with your handbrake loop.
Return with results and further instructions.
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I jumped the green and the white wire to no avail. It’s weird. I was just standing next to it last night with it on and you heard the cylinder start to click and then the error cleared out and then it went right back to the -4 again. Maybe something chewed the wire…
Ok, Ignore the green wire for now.
Take that white wire and jump it to the closest B- source.
In your case, this may be the first battery in the pack (under the seat on the driver side, first battery NEG.
Does the -04 clear (and stay clear?).
Confirm (Y/N)?
If you have the car front wheels off the ground, a slight pedal press should make them roll.
I pushed down on the wide pedal like 6 times, nothing happened. WTF Maynard?
You only THINK nothing happened.
This actually stored up 6 pedal presses you can redeem later at future intersections. No need to stop.
It stays. However when I 1st touched the wires it cleared for about 5 seconds and I was able to get it to move ever slightly. I wonder why it intermittent. I wonder if I may be grounding it when I touch them..last time it happened I was messing with the fuse box so I don’t think they are affiliated.
That is awesome!
But i dont have a Think, i have a Thunk.
I wonder why it intermittent. I wonder if I may be grounding it when I touch them..last time it happened I was messing with the fuse box so I don’t think they are affiliated.
Slow down, I’m getting there…
Next is to check the 1x16 white connector over at your DC board.
You will need to remover the upper and lower sections of the Dash Panels.
Q- Do you know if this car has the New DC Converter/wiring update?
This is located over on the passenger side of the firewall down low.
If yes, you will have something that looks like this:
If No- then you will have soemthing like this:
In either case, I am targeting that white bar/connector.
Power down car, pull that connector, give it a shot of contact cleaner and push it back on. Bonus points for doing it more than once.MainSw
Try activating car again. (MainSwON, KeyON, BrakeDown, Verify no errors on dash display, Lightly press thin pedal).
Results?
Still getting the -4. I have the updated version. It appears the number 9 wire in your diagram vmight be pulled out of smidge.
Ignore that P9 wire. That is for the foot pedal and not your issue.
The wire you are looking for is on Pin8 [Wht/G].
This wire comes from the Handbrake switch and goes to P13 on the motor controller. Pin13 needs to go to B- to clear the -04 and release the car to go.
Next-
Jump the wire in P8 over to B- (on top of the controller).
Does -04 clear?
Final-
Remove the 23pin Main Harness connector and inspect Pin13. Give it a spritz of contact cleaner and re-insert.
