Manual sent, if it got wet than water is known to get inside the motor controller if it hasn’t been rebuilt. If this is the case a lot of times just letting it sit for a few days fixes it. Of course until it gets wet again. FSIP rebuilds the controllers if you don’t want to worry about it getting wet.
Hey David. You sure are the man when it comes to these and I’m sure I can speak for all of us here when we say thanks for you knowledge and for giving it to us for free!! #1 I would love a manual as well. geoffnelson88@gmail.com #2 I’m working on a friend’s Think tomorrow. All lights, horn, wipers non-op. Highly suspicious of the DC/DC converter based on these forums. I have checked the fuses already. I know he has a Delta Q charger. Are there any Delta Q chargers that DO NOT have built in converters? Gonna put this thing on my lift tomorrow and try to find the (2) converters.
Hey @Falconcoachnelson
I’d say most of the DQ chargers do NOT have the built in DC Converters. Those did not show up until maybe 2012 or so and they were mainly found in the Gem cars.
Your Think did not originally come with the DQ-DCI but I suppose one could have been installed by a crafty mechanic or car owner.
You should find at least one DC Converter. It is usually mounted up front at the base of the windshield. Not all have the second, but it would be mounted directly behind it on the other side of the frame crossmember.
Manual sent, most Delta Q chargers do not have the built-in dc/dc converter. As AssyRequired stated early models didn’t come with a Delta Q but later models did and a lot of the early models were upgraded under warranty. It should have one or two factory dc/dc converters under the hood on the top frame rail where a firewall usually would be on a car. The back one runs everything but the PowerPoint (cigarette lighter) unless someone switch the wires. The wiring can be switch between the two. You can’t see the back one, you can reach your hand underneath and feel it. It’s on the passenger side. See page 82 in the electrical section. OG/YE is 72 volt positive in and OG/BK is 72 volt ground in. RD/BU is 12 volt power out and BK is 12 volt ground out. So put a volt meter on OG/YE and OG/BK and if you have around 72 volts put your voltmeter on the other two. If you don’t have over 12 volts the dc/dc converter is bad.
Okay, did the test. DC/DC converter is bad. 74.7v going in, nothing coming out. Any insight on where to purchase a new one. Did a google search and only found a used one on ebay
1 Like
Don’t limit yourself to the belief that it needs to be Think specific.
Many other DC Converters out there that will do the job nicely.
1 Like
Several people are buying cheap dc/dc converters from amazon and have had good luck with them. Just look for one that’s 30 amps or more.
Hello david i have a 2001 ford think and im needing a service manual with electrical diagrams. If you still have a link for that i would appreciate it. Thank you
Okay one quick question/concern I have relates to the post that I have copied and pasted below.
I specialize on Ford Thinks only, and there’s a major safety concern I have to address immediately. The 12 Volt nominal system is actually 13.0 Volts, and the negative lead from the DC-DC Sevcon converter is tied to the frame of the vehicle, hence it’s also a negative ground automobile.
The 72 Volt nominal battery pack is NOT connected to any ground, and particularly NOT the vehicle frame. The battery pack should be referenced as +72 (Positive), and 72 Volt (Negative, or RETURN), but not as ground. If you have ever notices the ‘Lightning Bolt’ icon on the cluster, that signifies an unsafe condition exists where the battery pack is sensing potentially dangerous condition where there’s a problem with the ‘isolation’.
You do not need a working DC/DC Converter for the car to charge and operate, although no ‘12 Volt’ accessories will work (lights, horn, wipers, brake lights, etc) and the Brake Icon will remain illuminated all the time. You MUST use an isolated DC-DC Converter for safety, and this will always be a 4 or more wiring connector (+72V in, 72V return, +12V out, 12 Return). You can buy cheap imported DC/DC Converters for $35, but don’t do it. It can kill you!
This is the link to the DC/DC converter that we are looking at from amazon. Think it is safe? The wiring diagram on the amazon ad shows the 12v negative return going to the battery but the post above say the 12v return is grounded to the frame. Also is a 5-wire setup and not 4.
Looks to be isolated, but I don’t see specifically that it is.
Better ask first.
Just because it has 5 wires does not mean the the two negative wires are isolated.
If Think is like Gem, it will not be happy connecting the 12v system to 72v battery.
They hide it well. A search finds this link warning non-isiolated.
Yet clicking the link i dont see it. Buyer beware.
I believe that Ernie found some surplus high end Sevcon converters.
Found it in a review.
Reviewed in the United States on March 1, 2023
Size: 30A 360WVerified Purchase
Works as stated. Input and output are not isolated. Input and output ground are tied together but otherwise is a good unit.
Manual sent >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I have no experience with the cheap dc/dc converters. I just know a lot of people are using them without any issues that I’m aware of. They all say they work great, but I guess that could all change rather quickly if it goes up in smoke.
Manual sent >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Manual sent >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thank you, my next dilemma is I’m trying to rewire the radio it was installed in this Ford think. The previous owner wired it up to where the yellow memory wire in the red wire both together into the PowerPoint circuit. But the problem is I don’t retain my memory. I’m trying to find a point where there is 12 volts all the time even with the disconnect switch turned off. If that is possible. I have looked through these schematics and I’m not seeing any 12 Volt circuit I can use