Hi David. I recently purchased a 2002 Think Neighbor. It was working fine one day the next day I had no lights on the cluster. It had dc/dc converters which the front one tested bad at 7v. Would this cause the cluster to not function? I’ve noticed the charger has been replaced too. Could you send me a wiring diagram for this unit?
A failed DC Converter may be the cause of a non responsive cluster.
Some cars came with two converters and you can try swapping the harness to the other. The second converter was mounted directly behind the frame member where the first one is mounted. You can’t really see it, but if you reach under and behind the first one, you might be able to feel it id it is there.
When/if your car has had the cluster repaired, one of the popular hacks is to include a small converter dedicated to the cluster. It might be worth looking at yours to see if your car has this update.
Could you send me a wiring diagram for this unit?
Send a PM with your info so it can be sent via email,
-or-
this guy Michael put the manuals up on his google drive in a zip file found here:
See if this link works for you.
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The dc converter supplies 12 volts to the cluster for back lighting. See page 125 in electrical section. The dc converter that controls all the lighting is the one behind the kick-up panel if it’s factory. See page 217 in electrical section. You can reach underneath to remove plug from converter.
David, is there any way to remove both OEM sevcon DC/DC converters and combine them into one Pro Chaser 72v/12v converter (from Amazon)? (If so, HOW?!) If both OEM are bad, it seems to make sense to pull both out and replace them with just one. OR, do I have to replace both of them? Thank you!
I’m not familiar with the Pro Chaser converter. It’s suggested to use an isolated converter but many people don’t. As long as it has enough amps to handle all of your loads it should work.
To wire just wire the OG/YE to the positive input on the converter. OG/BK to input negative. Output positive from converter to RD/BU wires. Output negative to BK wires. If it has an ignition wire on the converter run it to OG/YE as well.
Always turn the master switch off when not in use and that will shut down the converter.
Thank you David! Very helpful. I’m working on it tonight!
-James
David,
I have 72v out the No1 fuse but 0 V at both DC/DC connectors to the converters….tracing the wires it doesn’t make much sense how the wires run from the switch and No1 fuse to the converters. There is a round white relay below the fuse box that has a large positive connector to the POS terminal on the battery pack and another large wire coming of that but I can’t see any specific wires running from the fuse box to the converters
Jason T
The fuse holders are a known problem, so make sure you have battery pack voltage on the OG/YE wire coming out of #1 fuse holder. Also don’t use the frame as a ground when testing as it will give you erroneous reading. Using battery #1 negative for testing is the best choice. There is only one two pin connector between the fuse and the dc/dc converter. See page 209 in the electrical manual. It has been so long since I have worked on one of these and I don’t remember where that plug is. Probably under the dash somewhere. There is also a splice, see page 82. I doubt that is your problem unless someone molested the wiring. If you have battery pack voltage coming out of the fuse holder and nothing at the converters overlaying the wire maybe your best choice.
Dave
Yes that is the way I tested the voltage so I know I’ve got a good fuse and a good fuse holder. Physically looking at the wires coming out of fuse No 1 they are not color coded just orange and seem to loop to the switch and the negative terminal only.
I do not have the manual for which you described a page number haven’t seen one anywhere but I see a lot of people in this forum asking you for one
Vr
Jason T
Sent you a manual. The fuse should have two wires. Power inlet from the disconnect switch and the other power out to the dc/dc converters. The converters go bad so someone may have changed the wiring.
Fixed it turned out to be a base fuse holder
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