Delta Q repair

I have a 912-7200-01B Delta Q that will not charge. It shows blinking red (high voltage) after boot up. Based on everything I have read in the forum from you and the other smart guys here I have it hooked up correctly (Red B+, Black B-, White to B-, Green taped up). Green and red/green interlock are connected together to bypass as this is a 2003 E2 GEM. Does this sound repairable? I did charge every battery individually with an advanced desulphator charger and the batteries appear to be 100% good just to make sure it wasn’t them and this was after they were at about 50% per the GEM indicator.

White to b- ? This is a lithium charger? Else white goes to thermistor.

I am attempting to charge flooded batteries with it. Right now it is showing algorithm 13. Does the charger care if the white wire is connected if it’s a cool 70 degrees on the coast? I did try it with the white disconnected also. While on the subject of the white wire, could I use the stock Zivian heat sensor in place of the Delta Q sensor? Lastly, do you sell Delta Q’s if this one is toast?


On Sat, Sep 16, 2023 at 1:13 PM Inwo via Electric Forum <> wrote:

| Inwo
September 16 |

  • | - |

White to b- ? This is a lithium charger? Else white goes to thermistor.

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13 need the sensor connected. afaik.

You have 4 blinks for high voltage?
Or 1 blink for temperature sensor fault

Right- You said blinking red?
How many blinks between the pauses? It will probably be a number between 1 and 6. (it’s a code).

(what Inwo said)
And you said the white to B-? That is almost correct.
It will need the Temp sensor installed on this white wire. If you are converting this over from a Zivan you probably don’t have one of those.

When the charger is connected to power (B+ and B-) it blinks twice in a rhythm which I believe means high voltage. When not connected to power it blinks once in a rhythm which means low voltage (which makes sense). Today I tried to change the algorithm from 13. It went to 14 and then would not change anymore. Is that white wire so critical to functionality that the charger would show high voltage and not charge if the temp sensor is not installed? I realize there would be a cost factor but has anyone explored using two 30 amp 3 bank marine chargers to charge each battery separately? Seems like a good way to ensure proper charge and monitoring of each individual battery.

Try it and see.

One blink is thermistor fault as stated above.

Did charger ever work without thermistor?
13 was not correct? Flooded.

6 average or poor quality chargers may be no better than one good one.

Interesting, that is a different chart than I found online. So this is an Ebay charger I purchased after my Zivian went silent. Although it boots up, it does nothing but double flash (high voltage) when connected to power and battery plus and minus and I must have tried twenty times to change the profile with no luck. I’ve lost faith in this thing so I think I will be better off returning it and finding another solution. Do you sell Delta Q’s? Best price for a new one is Battery Pete @ 455 plus tax and shipping. Do you have good used ones? Would it be worth it to send it to you for an analysis on repair-ability?

one thing to keep in mind, this is out of range e.g. it could be high or low voltage. I was getting this error on an EZGO rvx where we modified the Delta q charger to fit into the factory EZGO charging receptical. Turns out there is a non-serviceable fuse in there that was blown and breaking the circuit to the battery. That was throwing the double blink. Then i plugged in the charger without anything connected… double blink.

Not trying to question your electrical skills… but double check with a volt meter that the new-to-you charger is connected properly and completing the circuit.

Are you going to B+ and B- of the controller? Or are we talking B+ of Battery 1 and B- of Battery 6. If talking the controller, there’s a contactor between Battery 1 and the controller so that wouldn’t work.

Thanks to INWO, I do see I was using the wrong error code chart. That has been part of my confusion for sure. I connected it to the same posts as the Zivian. B- to what I believe is the controller to the left of where the Zivian was mounted with the big orange B- and to the right of the large what I think is a fuse where the original Zivian positive was connected. I never thought of connecting it straight to battery 1 and 6 to bypass all the other stuff just to see how it would respond. I will try that for kicks. I did check the voltage between where I had it connected and I was getting 74 volts all the while showing what I now know is “voltage out of range”.

So we can figure out what you are playing with - show a pic of your serial number sticker/barcode on the side of the charger. It will start off with 4 letters. Probably DQxx something.

Any way to “trick” the charger into thinking there is a thermistor attached? I don’t have one but it might be worth the $25 to get one to check it definitely.

Note: Since your ser# starts with DQDB it looks like a version that is programmable for the future.

Any way to “trick” the charger into thinking there is a thermistor attached?

Yes- you can fool the charger into thinking there is one attached by installing a 10k resistor inline between the white wire and B-. Obviously, the temp curve table will no longer be available.

What do you have around in your area that would have electronic parts? Radio shack was always good for that. Ham Radio stores are getting rare, and Fry’s are all thinning out too. You could always Go online and amazon something.

Awesome! I’m gonna try that before I pitch this thing!

Well I soldered a 10k resistor between the white wire and the B- and attached the red and black to the batteries direct. Metered @ 75 volts. Still won’t update the algorithm nor charge the batteries. Just sits there flashing single blinks. I think it is time to look for an alternative. Can anyone here fix these things or should I toss it?

Where are you located?

Didn’t you say it was 2 blinks before? New result shows white wire is working.
You seem to be fighting our suggestions.
It would not be expected to affect changing profiles.
Should have been left on 13 for flooded.

Send it to me or Byron to test. No charge if it’s not repairable.
$150 to test and program.

My apologies for all the confusion. Between my use of the wrong error code chart to start with and trying to remember one blink or two blinks and while connected or disconnected, I actually tried all of your very helpful suggestions with no success in getting it to actually charge and stop sending “voltage out of range” codes. The white wire with the resistor did seem to fix that issue. And you are 100% correct, I should have left it on 13.

Can you send my the ship to address? I think it may be fixable since it boots up well enough.

I am in San Clemente CA (south Orange County).