The charger is tested and ready to ship, along with a 300amp 24s bms.
Pin1 white is now “enable” connect to B- to charge.
Squeezed the 23" wheels in with one inch wheel spacers and 1" fender bracket riser. In true Overkill fashion I welded the riser
I left the disconnect switch in but I added a 200 amp breaker with a disconnect switch. A little redundant but the parts were there.
Dc rated?
Important!
Of course it is DC rated
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Sorry. 
I’m not used to working with pros.
Dave
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Goes in the car like this.
Brackets screw into the edge of the 1x4 al top cross frame.
Backing between battery and gussets. Seemed like a good idea at the time.
Did you fit it under the rear seats?
If so maybe 320AH pack
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Yes, it fits both ways.
This way and stacked. A 24kwh gem may be a 100 mile record breaker.
This is best way for me. I don’t have to break packs in two…
My first two packs arrived separated so I went this way. I have two other packs still assembled. I like having the weight up front though. The wheels still spin if you turn and punch it. What cut off voltage do you think would be safe for the bottom end of a charge on these packs? I ran from 80+ to 73 yesterday. SOC reads 79% but the curve on a lithium is different from an SLA.
I really can’t come up with anything good to put under the seats. I may just put the second battery pack there to make this a true daily driver.
Nothing left under 3.5v Won’t hurt them down to 3v.
Are you saying that you have 2 x 10s and 2 x 20s modules.
Good thing you snapped them up. I can’t find more.
How were the big packs shipped?
I actually have (2)10s installed and (1)- 10s , (2) 20s not installed. I snapped them up.
Unfortunately he sold off one of the 10s while I was testing.
Small steps.
Fuse location.
Well…
That sucks!
The module in the car is backwards. - + + -
Two B+ in the middle.
Hope Grant gets a good one. I’ll make him give it back.
If I had the energy, I’d pull it out.
