I was asked to provide details of the Volt battery conversion to my GEM.
I am not finished, but the vehicle is operational daily. I will have pictures of the conversion later. Please ask away and I will attempt to answer. I will bore you with some theory and my thinking behind the conversion so keep that in mind.
I wanted to end up with a long-lasting conversion which was turnkey and easily done. I wanted to use as many stock parts as possible including the charger so the upfront costs were low and skill level to convert was minimal. From my research, this appeared to be a reasonable goal.
Mine is a 4 seater GEM 2002 with 5hp motor.
I initially bought 6 new US Battery 31DC batteries and drove around a bit. Well, OK, but from the very beginning I wanted to use lithium. You can buy the basically unused batteries from me- check the for sale section
After reading, talking to folks, and checking forums (not necessarily in that order) I decided to use Chevrolet Volt modules. Mostly because I hadn’t seen it done before. Also, the NMC LMO or lithium nickel manganese cobalt oxide batteries are USA made by LG and have an amazing track record. Since 2010, Chevy reports battery degredation of 3% and they claim they have never made a warranty replacement for a battery. They have a pack they cycle and test frequently. Every once in a while they test the peak intermittent power output and it’s somewhere near half a megawatt. Well over 400KW. Good grief. Gotta get me one of those for the GEM, right? That’s over 500 horsepower…
Thousands of cycles and only minimal degredation? Serious power with minimal sag? Relatively safe chemistry with no random fires? Sign me up.
In terms of the long life and minimal degredation, it seems that the secret is how the battery is managed by the on-board battery management system. This isn’t a charge it up to 4.2v and run it down to 2.5v battery. Chevrolet intentionally takes around 17kwhr battery capacity and only uses around 11 kwhr (from memory, excuse if incorrect but you get the point). Chevrolet says they use 65% of the SOC. The strategy and set points are proprietary, and Chevy won’t divulge. However, by checking on Volt boards and reading what folks are posting about their aftermarket state of charge (SOC) software is reading, it seems the Volt never charges above 90% (varies somewhat based on environmental factors, age of battery, and probably tens of other parameters the Volt’s computer is using) and doesn’t go below about 25% SOC.
Translating to battery voltage per cell, that’s approx. 4.1 volts charged and 3.6 volts discharged. A NMC LMO battery is nominal 3.6-3.7v with max charge 4.26 (that’s max max) and discharged at 2.5. At 3.0 volts it’s essentially done and going to 2.5 really doesn’t get you much more energy at all. Remember, while lead acid charge vs volts is somewhat linear, the volt to charge on a lithium cell is not. That’s why it’s not as simple as placing a volt meter on a lithium cell and estimating state of charge.
I’d noticed on the lead acid packs that in the hilly area I live in, there was a really bad voltage sag even with freshly charged batteries. Say hello to the Peukert effect.
It takes time for a battery to sulfate its cells and make electricity, since it’s a chemical reaction. I figured if the batteries were to live, I’d never go below 50% SOC. Factor in the Peukert effect, which halved the battery capacity again, and I was looking at an effective 32 or so amp hours of usable battery capacity. Nuts!
Anyway, the first thing I did was to get a 72v Volt battery module. Each module is rated 54 amp hours. Each and every cell has Battery Management System monitoring using the stock plugs. The BMS is an aftermarket system, since at this point to use the CAN BUS system you need a working Chevy Volt. Nobody has cracked the codes to use the OEM BMS modules yet. Bummer. The aftermarket BMS is active 24/7, even with the cart off (you can’t turn it off unless you unplug from the battery). It will balance cells even when not charging. The only modification I had to do was to connect the negative lead of the Zivan charger to the BMS main board. So, the Zivan charges the battery through the BMS. THe BMS can accept a charge of up to 30amps, so it’s well within parameters. Connecting the BMS to the Zivan took literally 3 minutes and I fished the wires (each module has a BMS with a separate negative wire; right now only one BMS is wired to the charger which is risky and I will eventually wire all the BMS to the Zivan). through the base of the windshield. I forget about the car charging, fall asleep or whatever, the BMS will eventually shut off the negative lead of the charger and the charger will shut off. No harm is done and it cannot overcharge the battery. The one BMS shuts the charger off when all of its individual cells reach full voltage; I’m measuring that with cable voltage losses the pack in the rear is 0.5v lower than the front pack so I’m assuming there isn’t a problem. I will, however eventually put all BMS wires to the Zivan.