Did you make a wire diagram for the output off the packs. I am about to go out and start metering for that but figured it was worth asking first.
No short cut. I metered and tagged each with voltage reading.
Remember two will be the same.
Also mark each plug and socket 1-4. So you don’t get them mixed up.
On bms-24t connect;
0-4-8-12-16-20-24-28-32 next plug 32-36-2x40s-44-48-52-56-60-64 next plug 64-68-72-76-80-nc-nc-nc-nc
Should be right! Make sense?
Yes, It does make sense.
Good, as every time I type it, I worry a mistake might creep in.
Every other bms is is cell 0-1-2-3 all the way thru. And use keyed sockets. 
Perfect, did they fit?
I have mine configured the same way.
Oh wait, that’s the front!
I see you are planning the balance leads on the same end.
Makes a long run for the neutral connection, but was the best choice for me.
More pictures?
My measurements show an inch of vertical clearance between cross-members.
Looks like you may have less.
First battery buts up to cross bar. Second battery sits above.
Circuit board had to come out. Fuses were shorted. Soldering in New leads with fuses inline. You recommended 1.5 amp right?
That sounds right.
If you find room for a full 20s pack it will cut the work in half.
Close enough to tease.
Thought about that and some other options. The front seemed to be the best option.
Minimal fab and ease of repetition should someone else want to do it.
Close proximity to all connections.
Decrease in any potential line loss.
Most importantly put the disconnect switch where it is easy to access.
You need the weight up front. Perfect for your setup.
Good luck with the balance leads.
Scary job working hot. Unless you come up with another idea. They need be soldered or some extremely high quality fuseholders.
Wow I have totally missed this thread. It did not show up for some reason. I had to do a search to find it.???
That seems like a great option for a 2002. Adding the weight from the new lithium’s up front will help. For the newer cars the battery’s upfront is not that easy. What will the 2 Bolt Battery’s weigh?
approximately 64 # each
still lighter than the 150 # flooded batteries that were up front.
On a side note these adapters showed up from ebay. Hard to beat the cost and they lined right up. I’ll follow back on the feedback once the cart is back on the road.
There is so little room on the pack even with the PCB it may be hard to squeeze a holder in there. Planning on soldering a fuse with leads in,
The the 2 Bolt Battery’s are gonna come in at 128 Lbs and the Flooded lead acid would have been real close in weight. So I think you will real close as far as factory ride quality. Looks like they stick out a bit assuming the hood has no issues closing. Great solution for a 2002 gem cause I don’t think this would work on a newer gem. I’ll keep checking with David to see if one can some how slide into the rear section of a new style gem.
I looked at the rear section. If a mount is made to elevate the pack beyond the swing axle that would be possible.
That sounds good.
So you can find 38" of room from front of the seat to back of the spat, if the platform is raised an inch or two?
In an E2 the E-brake mount may be an issue. Bottom picture.
I think that I’ll take the rear off of my E4 and try it.
Then I can sell my 100ah Volt pack to someone. They fit in the normal battery box.
These aren’t mine but show fitment.
Two in middle. One on each side.
