This is where my Headlights connect to the car. The Green wire is the Ground for both Headlights and it dosent touch the frame here. The black wire you see touching the frame is for the turn signals
follow the green wire then
When I followed the green wire from the headlight connection in the photo it goes up through the firewall and into a flat 6 or 7 pin connection and that Go’s up and into the Stearing coloum for the dash switches
Take the cowards way out.
If I remember correctly the switches on the dash all share a common ground. So it’s green comming out of the colum to the headlights but what color is it going up to the colum
Take the cowards way out that’s funny !!! And a good suggestion if that was the only thing that was affected. I’m using the DC converter for other things like turning on The relays that turn on all of my stereo and accessories so it would be a good idea to get to the bottom of this
Do you have any idea what wire grounds the DC to DC converter
Grant
I sent you 2 diagrams
Grandpa
Thought from the one post that you had it. grds!
If checking grounds. Use pin 4, 5, or 6 for common to meter.
Should have near zero to frame.
Check email and pm. Need some MMs tested. In reference to defective one.
Pin 1=72B- (not grd)
Pin 12=72B+
Pin 9+10= 12v+ always on (limited power for radio)
Pin 7+8= 12v+ on with key
Pin 4+5+6 12v ground
Pin 3= 12v+ from key (turns on 7+8)
I’m still trucking down to find where the ground is compromise but here is a picture of one headlight that well grounded versus another it makes a huge difference
Ok back to my nightmare.
I have a Wire Diagram printed out and I front of me.
Pin #1 is battery Neg and Pin #12 is bat Pos at the converter I have 73 Volts at the converter. But I have 80 Volts at my lithium battery is this large voltage drop a issue?
[quote=Gwest;33223]Ok back to my nightmare.
I have a Wire Diagram printed out and I front of me.
Pin #1 is battery Neg and Pin #12 is bat Pos at the converter I have 73 Volts at the converter. But I have 80 Volts at my lithium battery is this large voltage drop a issue?[/quote]
No, it will have full output over a wide range.
Ok what would you say the next thing to check would be.
When lights are dim you have:
>12v at converter “out”
>72v to converter “in”
<12v at light
Normal current draw checked at converter "out"
Converter is “good”
Check voltage drop: "Should be near zero"
from converter 12v+ terminal to light 12v+
and converter 12v- terminal to light 12v- (grd or grd wire at light)
One of these wires MUST show several volts drop.
Continue checking from source (converter) to wire connection points along the path from source to load to find where the voltage is being dropped.
Connect a new wire across the points where there is drop, or worse case all the way from source to load. (if it’s the grd wire as you suspect).
David My Answers are in Bold
When lights are dim you have:
>12v at converter “out” [B] I have 9.25 volts @ dc converter out with lights ON[/B]
and with the lights turned off i have 13.32 volts
>72v to converter “in” [B] 68 volts with lights OFF 44 volts with lights ON [/B]
<12v at light [B] 9.31 volts at light with Lights turned on [/B]
Normal current draw checked at converter "out"
Converter is “good”
Check voltage drop: "Should be near zero"
from converter 12v+ terminal to light 12v+
and converter 12v- terminal to light 12v- (grd or grd wire at light)
One of these wires MUST show several volts drop.
Continue checking from source (converter) to wire connection points along the path from source to load to find where the voltage is being dropped.
Connect a new wire across the points where there is drop, or worse case all the way from source to load. (if it’s the grd wire as you suspect).
David My Answers are in Bold
When lights are dim you have:
>12v at converter “out” I have 9.25 volts @ dc converter out with lights ON
and with the lights turned off i have 13.32 volts
>72v to converter “in” 68 volts with lights OFF 44 volts with lights ON
<12v at light 9.31 volts at light with Lights turned on
Ok, that’s not what I understood.
Lighting circuit from converter to lights is all ok. IF there is not too much current draw. Did you check amps right at output of converter?
Looks like it’s ok.
Do the voltage drop test on the 72v side. That’s where voltage is dropping.
Check from B- battery post to B- input to converter.
Check from B+ battery post to B+ input to converter.
Again both should be near zero.
I don’t know what is between battery and converter. I’ll look it up.
Nothing between converter main input and battery.
Voltage should not drop under load.
David this is what my Volt meter says when I go from Battery - to DC converter 72v -
And this is what my voltmeter say when I go from Battery B+ to DC converter 72v B+
Must be checking to the wrong pins. Reversed!
Pin 1 should connect to battery neg.
Pin 12 to battery pos.
Check from 1 to neg. Yes neg to neg. That reads the drop.
Check from 12 to pos.
Ok HUGE thanks to David. I had a few things hooked up WRONG.
#1 I had the Red/Green 12v+ wire from the innerlock hooked to B- of the controller.
#2 I had the Green 72volt input Ground that should have go bat B- going to the timer.
David figured out that the Red/Green 12v Pos from cars innerlock Needed to go to the cars Green #6 timer.
[B]Problem Solved [/B] I would have. Never figured it out on my own. With my car starting out with a stock Zivan charger then getting switched over to a Quick Charger then Finally settling with a Delta Q the exact proper placement of where the innerlock wires needed to go got me quite confused and I screwed up. God it feels great to have made progress with this problem
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