Charger charges, but NO 12 volts? any advice would be great.
Thank you in advance.
Looking for Byron Grams…I heard he was a guru. lol
Peter
Called FSIP and they will repair for $249.
What was your procedure to determine the converter was truly dead?
Where are you looking for 12v?
I got the service manual from “old houseboater” (greatest name ever !) Went through the steps. Charger, charges the 72 volt battery pack and the light turns green.
No 12 volts at the J4 plug. All fuses were good and the main switch was good. Key had continuity through it. I am sending to FSIP for $245 to fix it.
Did I miss something?
Thank you for responding.
Peter
Ok. Just making sure you were observing the clues correctly.
I usually check for 12v at the PSDM ACC post first. With Main Batt Sw ON, you should see 12v on S6.
The J4 plug (when unplugged from the psdm) should have 12v between Pins C and F.
You won’t see anything on A or B (ref F) until you jump pins C to D. This simulates the return from KeyON and lights up the 12v switched outputs.
Thank you, I didn’t have any 12 volts.
Must be the 72 to 12 volts converter.
Sending to FSIP tomorrow. Will let you know the outcome.
Pete
Peter Dishaw
KORT Enterprises
“Nothing beats reliability in people and products”
I have a converter I took out of my 2002 e825. I would sell it if you need it
I sent the Delta Q to FSIP.com, shipping was $18.50. Weight of it is 12 lbs.
Their quote to reman was $249. Fair I thought and am trying it. Will let you know the outcome.
I thought it was your DC/DC converter that was the issue not the charger. Did I miss something in this thread?
It is built in to that charger. My car is a 2015…charger worked, not the 12 volt side
Peter Dishaw
KORT Enterprises
“Nothing beats reliability in people and products”
aaahhhh got it.. I was not aware that it was combined in one. Thanks
I have received the Delta Q back and installed it. A question, the white wire from the charger, connected to an orange wire, is that correct. I took pictures when removing. Black to black and green to green. Red and black on controller posts. NO 12 volts still and when I add 120volts to the charger, I get the red flashing light now? Not sure what that means…
The red flashing light means the charger encountered an error. It is most likely flashing a pattern that translates to an error code.
Count those flashes between the pause.
The most common error is a Red(2). A two blink, pause, repeat.
This would mean that what it sees on the output is out of range. Put your meter probes on the Red and Black wires to see what Voltage is present on those wires.
- It could be that the car has been sitting so long that the batteries have fallen below the minimum threshold for the charger to take proper action. That minimum threshold is around 63~68v.
If batteries have gone down this low, you need to put a 12v car charger on each battery individually (one at a time) and give them a boost. At least you should bring each one up to 12v and try the onboard charger again. Do all 6.
OR
- The Red(2) means you simply forgot to flip the MainBattSwON to connect your pack to your car before plugging in your charger.
Your statement:
NO 12 volts still
Hints this may be the case.
Hi again.
The main switch was on, brake was on. Key was off. Still flashing two red. the red and the black wires from the charger go to the controller’s red and black. White goes to an orange with green strip. Black to black (ground). Green went to green interlock. The pack voltage is 76v. I have 76 volts all the way to one side of the solenoid. The solenoid has 2 little wires attached on one side. Orange one and a brown with dark green line on it. Two posts on other side, no wires there.
Peter Dishaw
KORT Enterprises
“Nothing beats reliability in people and products”
Also, there is no power at the controller. Where does the red from the charger go too?
It’s on the controller, but no picture of it before. I removed the wires from the psdm on the red side, but thought I did it not to short something when remo ing the charger.
Does it go there?
It was the orange wire from the charger was wrong. Car is running. Thank you so much for your time.
Peter Dishaw
KORT Enterprises
“Nothing beats reliability in people and products”
Aorry, red wire from the controller was wrong. I moved it into the 72 volt positive post and the car started right up and runs, thank you all. And FSIP.com
There ya go.
You took the long way, and eventually got there.
OK, the black wire can go on the controller NEG post.
But the red charge wire does NOT go on top of the controller. B+ does not fully appear on that post until the contactor closes(don’t be fooled by the cap pre-charge). It won’t close until key is on and you press the pedal a bit.
The conundrum you created for yourself is that the Key Loop will not energize with the charger interlock being active. (charger plugged in)
It’s all there to keep you from tearing a hole in the fabric of space-time and causing dogs and cats to sleep together.
The proper place to put that Red charge wire is on the front of the PSDM (driver side) or on the backside of the MainSw (which is not so convenient to get at). This way, when MainBatSw is OFF, the DC Converter (built into the charger) does not drain your pack while you are not using the car.
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Good morning,
Thank you again, I appreciate it. I started working on a seadoo and I reread your message. There wasn’t power at the red and black wires. Then it dawned on me, there couldn’t be. So I changed the wire and it worked.
Take care.
Peter
Peter Dishaw
KORT Enterprises
“Nothing beats reliability in people and products”