Plenty of posts on Delta Q QuiQ chargers for a E825. Mine has died and shows zero sign of life. I have tested and swapped the extension cord and applied power right to the unit, still no life. I sent Inwo a couple of messages but haven’t heard back from him.
I have the stock battery setup and currently have Quasar Carbon Nano batteries. Regretfully, I don’t know what charge profile I was using. I’m guessing it was a default lead acid profile.
I’m looking for a replacement Delta Q (is there a better charger at the same price?). Where is the recommended place or person to get one. I’m in San Diego.
To finish this topic. I purchased one local for $450. That was set to the default Gel batts #6 profile.
The problem I had was the original charger had interlock wires: black and yellow on the charger side. These connect to a red/green and green on the Cart side. I read all the back log of threads but couldn’t clearly determine how to by-pass the interlock feature that was not available on the new charger.
So here is what you have to do bypass the interlock on a 2003 E825:
Connect the Red/green to the controller B+ side.
Connect the green wire to the B- side (this is the same side as the black wire coming from the charger).
Problem solved. I also added a break away portion to the extension cord, which was a 1’ extension. This will allow the extension to extension to disconnect before ripping the extension sideways out of the cart or wall outlet. Works well.
I also triaged the original charger. Plenty of burn marks inside. and a resistor that had burned away. I’m not sure what happened but it is probably age related. My cart has over 15K miles.
You have to be very careful with the interlock wires in your car.
The character changes depending on the year of the car, and if you have the new DC Converter update installed.
For the early Gen1 cars (00-04) this wire can be -72v, or it could be +12v. Then for the Gen2, it turns to +72v on later cars.
The original Zivan and Schott chargers handled this with a simple relay dry contact from a relay that you could use.
DQ chargers can be a handful.
The engineers at DQ instead gave you a single power wire for the interlock. What power outputted on this wire was internally configured from the factory via special order. This makes it very confusing for the used market.
This makes for several configurations of the DQ that came with different offerings of connections for interlock control. Some even had a single tri-color remote status LED for mounting somewhere convenient (like the dash pod). Don’t even get me started with the use of a standard color (green) for use of a non standard control (interlock) wire that most new guys will choose to hook to ground instead and blow up their brand new charger.
I am a bit confused about your description:
The problem I had was the original charger had interlock wires: black and yellow on the charger side. These connect to a red/green and green on the Cart side.
These sound like your car originally had a Schott charger (which had a dry contact output). With that charger removed, and a new DQ installed, the only easy option, your PO simply jumped together the interlock wires to allow the car to go. Problem was that the interlock was now disabled. It also sounds like you might have driven away with your power cord attached a couple of times.
I am equally confused as to how you came about this conclusion:
So here is what you have to do bypass the interlock on a 2003 E825:
Connect the Red/green to the controller B+ side.
Connect the green wire to the B- side (this is the same side as the black wire coming from the charger).
Holy crap NO!!! Don’t do this!
I am at a loss to any config of car vs known charger config where this would work. How lucky can you be??
I need another cup of coffee to see if I can wrap my head around what you are suggesting.
I also added a break away portion to the extension cord, which was a 1’ extension. This will allow the extension to extension to disconnect before ripping the extension sideways out of the cart or wall outlet. Works well.
It sounds like your interlock is NOT working. If it was, then you would not need a breakaway plug.
Having yet another set of sliding electrical connections on the input cord is not a good idea IMO. This cord is subjected to long periods of high current which is very hard on the cord AND the connections. The input cord often neglected until it gets hot enough to melt out a pin. Hopefully your little jumper cord is commercial grade 12ga or even better 10ga.
Firetrucks have such a complicated electrical system that instead of coming out to a dead battery when responding to a call, they also keep the trucks plugged in when not in use. They must have also yanked out too many umbilical cords until somebody designed a mechanical latch connected to the start switch that spit out the cord when truck was started.
The simpler version of this is to loop your cord through your steering wheel so you see it before driving it off.
We also had a guy in here that backed his car into it’s spot every day and moved his charge cord to the back of the car. When he pulled out, the cord would simply get plucked straight out.
@AssyRequired I measured the voltage and ohm of the broken charger black and yellow lines, when it was installed (that part of the charger worked). It led me to this configuration. Got a better one?
So here is what you have to do bypass the interlock on a 2003 E825 -
Connect the Red/green to the controller B+ side.
Connect the green wire to the B- side (this is the same side as the black wire coming from the charger).
Sure-
This statement sounds like you were describing the old original interlock wires. These two wires went to an internal relay NC contact inside the charger. When the charger was plugged in, the contacts opened, and disabled the car.
When the charger was removed, these two wires no longer had a home, and now no longer connected.
The correct answer would be to connect these two wires together to get your car to go, but you no longer have an active/functioning interlock.
Hooking these wires up to B+ and B- as you suggested stands a very good chance of blowing something up.
To remedy this, One must identify which generation of electrical system is in your car. (mainly the key loop).
Does your car have the original open faced DC Converter (PWB)-
A 2003 with a Schot charger seems odd, although back then anything was possible, they were slapping chit together as fast as possible so I’m surprised some didn’t ship e with postits that said “IOU - ONE CHARGER & DUMAWHACKY”.
The Zivan became the standard install charger sometime in 2002.
Right. I just remembered there being a few odd wires coming out of the bottom of that thing. The temp probe wires also came out on the same molex as the interlock in/out.
But I really think this car may have had a special DQ with the special wiring set up for a B- triggered interlock
Yeah, there were somethig like 10 or 12 wires on the connector for those polished turds. The zivan used 5 in the DIN plus 2 for the interlock and 2 for the power in.
Its a 2003 so there is only one proper way to repair it…
Clarify → That pic of the insides of the charger is the OLD charger?
Does your new charger have these wires?
Just so you know → Your car has the new DC Converter and the wiring update that supports it. (this is a good thing).
For future reference: This also means your Key Loop is using switched 12v from the Key.
What it sounds like you did-
Fastened the R/g to the B+ which most likely tried to back feed +72v(probably 36v) into the 12v system. Hopefully this didn’t piss off the DC Converter outputs.
Also fastened the Green wire to B- (-72v). The two components that exist on the other end of this wire might not have liked the potential 36V that sometimes exists when mixing the two voltages and their ref grounds in this car.
Let’s see what survived. Test: → What happens when you connect the R/g and the long green wire coming from the pass side of the car and KeyON? (See pic)
If all is well, this should work.
To make sure you have the correct Green wire, the red arrow is the wire that goes all the way over to the R/g wire.
Ignore where it says the zivan charger. Pretend that says DQ.
I am having you bypass the charger by hooking the two wires together.
That is what you asked.
I think there may be more of a problem beyond the interlock.
Status: It was working. Now the interlock is back on.
Because of this statement, I suspect you may have blown out your Key Relay and possibly the Acc Relay/Delay Off Timer
I have a $12.38 Ikea food court gift card for the first person who uses clamps to hook the little green wire and B+ up to their nipples…
I’ll throw in a half-full bottle of brown tabasco sauce with crunchy bits around the cap and a sun faded label if they are also connected to the nipples and scrotum.
