Different green wire. This was the one that was originally connected there. It goes into the wiring loom.
This one is the one that is reconnected to the Controller B-
At this point, the other R/G and Grn (originally connected to the charger) are not connected to anything.
Ok, you have been redeemed from further ridicule for now. I will go back up and edit my warnings.
But it does not feel right.
The numbers on those wires look like there is PackV working into the 12v circuits somewhere. These are supposed to be isolated from each other.
These last few tests have been using ChassGnd for ref.
Measure the same wires using B- for ref.
What do you get?
I have a $12.38 Ikea food court gift card
Shoot- If you plan it right, that is enough for an 8pc meatball entree and a Chocolate cake!
I however, am still offering up the Ikea food court gift card.
Operators are standing by.
Or 12 vegan hot dogs plus a wee tip…
I guess rwillie is done with our expert wiring help and fine dining suggestions?
As my dodgy South African friend likes to say…
“Don’t ever put your finger someplace where you wouldn’t put your willie.”
Sorry for the delay and think you for the continued help.
R/g to cont B- = 106.4
O/r to cont B- = 106.4
R/g to O/r = 0
seems like 72 and 36 are still isolated. still no sign of 12v
But from main batt power into right side of the fuse to chassGnd is 4v
Keep in mind that there are only 2 working voltages. 72 and 12v.
There is no 36.
The fact that you see 36v on the wires that should only be 12v is a bit of a concern. Either you are measuring something incorrect, something is cross wired, or this is stray phantom voltage from somewhere and back feeding through one of the components, (possibly leaking from a diode/ rectifier perhaps?).
Start by unplugging the harness out of your DC Converter and see if the 36 v disappears.
Verify that the Green wire last attached to the B- tab is indeed the wire going over to the DC Converter B- Input. (or is it something else?)
You might reveal something by disconnecting the 1x16 connector (visible in the pic you posted, half covered in black tape) and powering up the DC converter directly to see if 12v comes alive without the car plugged in. Look for 12v constant on pins 9&10(ref 4, 5, & 6) when 72v is applied to pins 1 and 12.
Shortcut to everything (as a test). aka - Bypass the entire key loop
Your car does not need 12v to run.
12v is just there to trigger a few relays and power up lights and accessories.
Test if your controller is booted and stand-by.
From a Cold start (batteryOFF for 30 sec), Power the car up via MainDisconnectSwitchON and observe the Round dash display. It should light up for a few seconds, show you some insignificant numbers, then go dark. (This is a good thing).
If YES → The controller is in stand-by and you can go to the next step
If NO → There is something else not right
Locate the Key relay (up above the square timer relay). Hint, that other green wire in the pic is going to it. It will look something like this:
This is not a permanent fix. Just a test to see how much of the car is still active.
Keep in mind that there are only 2 working voltages. 72 and 12v.
There is no 36.
The fact that you see 36v on the wires that should only be 12v is a bit of a concern. Either you are measuring something incorrect,
Verified multimeter across battery, reading 13.2v
And used a second multimeter which gave same reading
something is cross wired, or this is stray phantom voltage from somewhere and back feeding through one of the components, (possibly leaking from a diode/ rectifier perhaps?).
Start by unplugging the harness out of your DC Converter and see if the 36 v disappears.
Took a bit to soak the connector with contact to get it to release without me destroying it
36v disappears with MainDisconnectSwitch off 
36v disappears with DC converter harness removed
Verify that the Green wire last attached to the B- tab is indeed the wire going over to the DC Converter B- Input. (or is it something else?)
Yes. Continuity (ohm) between harness pin 1 and controller B- = 0.2 ohm
You might reveal something by disconnecting the 1x16 connector (visible in the pic you posted, half covered in black tape) and powering up the DC converter directly to see if 12v comes alive without the car plugged in. Look for 12v constant on pins 9&10(ref 4, 5, & 6) when 72v is applied to pins 1 and 12.
Clarify, you want me to disconnect the 1x16, then with the DC converter plugged in, key to on and see if I have 12v?
Without the DC converter plug, chances are high that I will short the 72v lines before I get them touched to 1 and 12.
Shortcut to everything (as a test). aka - Bypass the entire key loop
Your car does not need 12v to run.
12v is just there to trigger a few relays and power up lights and accessories.
Test if your controller is booted and stand-by.
1. From a Cold start (batteryOFF for 30 sec), Power the car up via MainDisconnectSwitchON and observe the Round dash display. It should light up for a few seconds, show you some insignificant numbers, then go dark. (This is a good thing).
If YES → The controller is in stand-by and you can go to the next step
YES got numbers
Locate the Key relay (up above the square timer relay). Hint, that other green wire in the pic is going to it. It will look something like this:
This relay also uses the 12v from the key to close contacts on a 72v wire going to the controller to wake it up. There are 4 wires going to it. Pull off the Wht and Gray wires and connect them together.
Does your Dash Display light up? Does the car drive? (It should).
Display lights up
Interlock buzz gone
Main relay connects when break released. Yes it would drive
This is not a permanent fix. Just a test to see how much of the car is still active.
I’m guessing my DC to DC is smoked?
Forgot to add pictures for JarJar
I was expecting to see some rough pins from the force needed to get it off.
Those are not the pics that will get you that ikea food card.
I am one that tries to avoid butchering up perfectly good wiring harnesses unless it is really needed. I’d rather find another way first.
This is where you need to get creative.
What do you have in your junk drawer that would work for this?
Do you happen to have an old Deutch connector from an old project? Disassemble that thing and use the pins. All you need is to push them directly on the converter pins in the converter. Cover them with a piece of tubing, tape or a McDonalds straw so it doesn’t touch the other pin. Use a 10 fuse inline so the accidental arc weld is a pop rather than a full current IMP that resets all the driveway cams on the block.
It doesn’t even need to be Deutch product. I bet you can take a molex female pin and gently resize a couple pins that nicely slip on for a test.
Shoot, you can even make your own test pin/socket with a wire and a piece of shrink tubing. Strip the end off, double back the wire onto itself and shrink tubing over this wire and a small nail. Pull the nail when cooled and push the test wire onto the target pin in the converter.
The point is to power the converter without anything else attached so you can test the output pin.
I created a wiring harness. btw the connector spacing is not 1.0 or 1.5, which would have made making connections easier using a molex connector.
battery was recharged last night- 80.2v
Connections:
hardness (-) to battery pack (-)
harness (+) to terminal (+) post in the top right of the pic
I thought about not adding an inline fuse but glad I did. A soon as I made the connection to the terminal (+) post the fuse popped. (…now I’m looking for my spare fuses, because I stole that one from the fuse box) It was a 10amp and with 80v that means the DC-DC convertor is pulling at least 800w.
According to the pic you included in post 31 of how the harness plug is oriented when plugged in, it looks like the green and white wires are at the bottom. These are your 72v input wires.
In other words → Pins 1 and 12 are at the bottom, not the top.
It was a 10amp and with 80v that means the DC-DC convertor is pulling at least 800w.
There is a chance the inrush surge to charge the caps popped the fuse, but I really think it was because you tried to feed 82v into the 12v outputs and the converter did not like it.
fck- I’m a dumb ass 
rewired (hopefully correctly)
Battery bank at 79.6v when wires to dc-dc are not connected.
When 72v input wires are connected. The voltage drops to 19.1v across pins 1 and 12. If I move the test leads to the large 72v post the reading is the same.
The output side of the dc-dc pins 6 and 7 (at the top) = 0.0v
Interestingly when wires are first connected voltage is ~16v and climbs to 19.1v then stops climbing. What I don’t understand is how is this connection pulling down the whole battery pack voltage, without something melting or smoking.
good news is I found my box of fuses and the first fuse is the only one to pop (so far)
is the dc-dc convertor serviceable?
hardness (-) to battery pack (-)
harness (+) to terminal (+) post in the top right of the pic
Clarify where you are picking up B-.
Put your meter on those spots directly and see if PackV is stable.
Something is not right with your input wires.
====
When input is found stable: then continue.
Note that 6 and 7 will be the Switched output. You won’t see anything on those pins yet.
12v neg are pins 4, 5, & 6. They are all the same.
You should be testing either 9 or 10 (+12vPOS) with Pin6. (ref pin6)
If you find +12v on 9 and/or 10, then jump that to Pin4 to turn on Pins 7 and 8.
Follow?
yep got it.
I was using the wire that the charge white wire connects to the battery with, I forgot it has the 10K resistor in line.
Change to B- on the controller. 80v steady input into the dc-dc converter
Pins 6 to 9 steady 33.3v output
Pins 6 to 9 steady 33.3v output
Wow. I’d say that converter needs replacing.
I do not know who might service it. The one I tried to take apart was potted.
If you have some other 12v power source, you might think about checking the key relay and the timer for proper function. They probably didn’t like the overvolt.
Hopefully you didn’t try your other 12v accessories. If this car drove for a while, you should check your brake light bulbs.
