I was thinking i’d do it here. In the Deutsch to Delphi (?) Harness you sent. Then all the factory stuff would stay intact
Good idea. You could just clip on a scotchlock .
Now that’s a nice fit. Too bad there aren’t more of them.
Hook it up already!
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I’ve got @smspring 's battery in my garage and they’re in stackable trays… Should I steal it, stack it, and put them in parallel?? I could do a serious GEM road trip 
Almost there. Goal is to go for a ride this weekend!
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ok… got a few to do the last couple steps but need help troubleshooting -
Wired it up in the back with a Volt Master disconnect / fuse
Crossed my fingers and popped in the disconnect fuse
Turned on the BMS, turned on the key… nothing. If i turn the key all the way over (kind of like you’d do to engage the starter in a gas car, the display boots and then I get this -
I’m wondering if somewhere along the way I loosened the key switch circuit? Thoughts?
Could Be 2 things that come to my mind:
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check if the VCC relay is powered from 12v accessories you should hear the solenoid noise.
-
Sevcon is setup at 500kbps instead of 250
Sorry I hit enter quickly because my daughter was close to the pool and I jumped.
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I would connect the Relay to 12v constant (instead of switched 12v) and see what happens. What do you think @Inwo
Second switch position is correct, I think.
Check under dash for both 12v constant and switched.
Sevcon stay powered?
These 2 - i get 11.95v all the time
these are cycling between 0 and 12v with the solenoid clicking on and off.
Might tell us something. At least the car will run without key.
power is cycling on the controller too.
want me to try
I have not connected a dc-dc like that yet. Need to see what is cycling power to converter…
Might take a while.
All those relays are controlled by vcm. May need to bypass the converter relay too. I hate to just bypass things willy nilly until we know what’s up.
Is it possible the DC to DC is bad? I could try the other one you sent.
Or try to power off the DCI.
Just let me know what you want me to try
Possible, but car should run on the aux battery.
Let me think:
Aux battery goes to key only. Make sure key is working. Just two wires.
Key sends power to vcm which pulls in dc-dc relay if it’s happy.
Check the switch first.
Or maybe the tpdo in this controller are making the vcm unhappy.
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Thinking…
The dci converter is enabled by 12v, so I instruct to enable it direct from 12v key switch.
Let me look for a simple way to power dc-dc from the key.
On the other hand, it makes sense to power the controller relay direct from switch, rather than from the switched dc from the converter. Might be a timing issue while booting up.
I’ve got the same thing under 2 scenarios.
First scenario:
when I didn’t connect the Relay to 12v (I tested it since Dave said “if the VCM is unhappy, then connect it”) turned that it was unhappy so that cable was the solution. I suggested to go constant 12v to try and see if it comes from there.
Second scenario:
My bms was working at 500kbps so I wanted all the canbus in the car to work at the same speed. So I changed the controller to 500kbps and that was the result. It was happy again when I changed it to 250kpbs
As a suggestion I would disconnect everything related to the Charger… get the car running first you won’t need to charge the battery when in testing period Unless you want to test the Range lol.
Are you testing the key switch under the dash?
Find a good place to tap into the switched side. It goes direct to a vcm pin, but easier to access under dash.
Connect the controller relay coil direct to key switch. That is a more direct, easy to diagnose solution, and will keep the car running in spite of Polaris vcm.
Makes sense. I don’t know what all the charger does. Interlock, can, etc. Is has been reported that the bmc or vcm can change charger profiles. I shudder to think what that might mean. We use different charger sw, so should be ok unless bmc tries and fails.