Does anyone still fix these pedals?
@Old_Houseboater can replace the potbox on them.
Working on the program.
Are you sure you have a foot pedal issue?
What are your symptoms?
When starting from stopped if you push down on the pedal it stumbles. If you push the pedal down two times it will accelerate and drive fine but once you stop moving it starts acting up. Wrench shows up on the dash. It’s a 2011 E2.
I unplugged the 23Pin connector and checked the Ohms on 7 and 9. I got 18ohms (±) at rest and 1043 ohms fully depressed. The book I have says 0 ohms at rest and 5000 fully depressed. Does that sound right? I pulled the accelerator assembly out last night. Any help would be wonderful.
It is actually difficult to check these by measuring resistance. It is better to check what it does to volts when it is hooked up, but now you need to poke through wires and insulation.
Do you remember the code that popped up when you were driving?
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Also- can you identify which controller is in this car?
5 new builds on the shelf. rodneyadiehl@aol.com
In a message dated 9/24/2024 2:40:53 PM Eastern Dalight Time, notifications@electricforum.discoursemail.com writes:
I’m don’t unfortunately. I’ll throw it back in tonight and see what comes up for codes. When you say controller are you referring to the pedal assembly or the controller on top of the motor? The pedal assembly is 0148-01000.
How do I check the voltage once I have it installed? Thanks
Potbox? Can you elaborate on what that is
You probably don’t need to fully install the pedal to test it.
If you have a jack, get the front wheels up off the ground so they can spin without going anywhere.
Then just plug your pedal assembly into the harness and slowly cycle the pedal and see if it works or throws a code.
The Motor controller is what I was asking about. It is in the shelf above the motor. It will have a long part number that ends with a T4 or T5.
The complete pedal assembly is difficult to find. The current fix is to replace the pot box at the end of your pedal arm. You need to drill out the rivets and install the new box on your arm with bolts. If you don’t have tools to do such a repair then you will need to send your complete unit to someone that offers the service.
It looks like @Old_Houseboater has a few ready to go. Contact him for instructions.
Do you need the whole number?
Nope- This tells me what you have.
Code 82. From my searching could that be the speed sensor
Pot box. "Pot"entiometer low voltage version of a rheostat. Variable resistor used to control voltage.
-82 is one of the obscure codes with roots in several different directions.
One of them is indeed a speed sensor issue and it is generally the one everyone looks at first. It is easy to replace.
Verify that there is some speed input on your dash display. Even rolling the car back/forth by hand with keyON should register a 1 or 2 Mph.
Going back to your original diagnostics you say the car/throttle was jumpy? → When was the last time your motor was serviced?
I’m going to say it’s been 8+ years at least. I doubt it’s ever been serviced. Folks bought it slightly used after sitting in storage about 8 years ago.
The speedometer worked. I jacked the front of the car up and tried it numerous times and there was no hesitation, but also no load. Which I would presume means the speed sensor is fine along with the pedal… going off of previous posts could it be the brushes or magnets?
Is this a new car to you? How long have you had it?
-Or-
are you servicing it for the current owner?
Ether way, I’d pull the motor and at least blow the dust out and check the brushes. Depending on your skill set and which motor this might be, checking brushes could be easy, or tricky.
It’s my folks. They are the second owners. Original owner died then it sat in storage for a couple years until my folks bought it. Been using it for I’d guess 8 years.
I’m pretty handy on fixing things. So I’m not nervous in that department. Does the repair manual go into detail on servicing the motor?
I really appreciate your help by the way
Now I’m getting code 21. How do I check the volts to determine it’s the accelerator pedal?
What have you done to the car in the last 4 days?
Am I supposed to guess what is different?
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-21 - Accelerator Voltage too high.
- (a) This can be as simple as a bad connection on the Main Harness 23p connector at the motor controller.
- (b) It could be a bad pedal pot that lost it’s ground reference trace internally.
Since this pedal was working last week, I will lean more towards option (a) at this moment.
Pull the connector at the pedal and check for proper voltages coming from the controller. Since your meter probes will probably not fit in the harness side, you will need some tiny pins to get in there.
KeyON
Between Pins K (Gnd) and D (+5v) - What do you get?
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Referring back to your post 4 (above)
I unplugged the 23Pin connector and checked the Ohms on 7 and 9. I got 18ohms (±) at rest and 1043 ohms fully depressed.
→ How exactly did you do this test? Did you insert your meter probes direct into the holes at 7 and 9?