I’m getting an error code 21 on my display. I have already switched out my controller and my accelerator pedal (both parts are brand new from the factory, not used ebay parts). I have not replaced the accelerator wire harness yet. Anyone with any information on how I can get my issue fixed would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hi Inwo, thanks for the picture can you please explain what I need to do or how to measure the volts for each pin you show in your picture? I am a total rookie at this but I do have the tools or can go get the tools needed to get this fixed. Please help. Thanks
FYI, The picture is facing the throttle socket. Use it for reference if testing the plug.
Pin 7 at controller must be less than 4.5 volts when switch is turned on. Stick a pin in the wire to test .
Unplug throttle plug.
Blk to red = ~ 5v.
Power off tests:
Unplug the 23p plug at controller and test ohms to throttle plug. Use low scale. All wires should be near zero ohms. Actually a battery continuity tester does a better job.
Pin numbers 7, 8, and 9 at 23p plug.
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thank you, I will test this afternoon when I get back home. For the power off tests, are you saying test the ohms between the 7 pin to the 23 pin / 8 pin to the 23 pin and 9 to the 23 pin and all readings should be zero?
the test for voltage at pin 7 is that off of the 23 pin harness or the plug from the throttle socket, and do I keep the harness plugged in when testing for the voltage?
again thanks for helping out a newbie.
Yes, 0 ohms. It’s only a wire harness test. Wires should be the same color on both ends.
Voltage comes from controller. Leave it plugged in. Unplug the throttle end for easy probing.
thank you. I will let you know what I find out once I test it later this afternoon. thanks again
Hi Inwo
So I did all the power off tests and all pins you mentioned has zero ohms for a reading so no wires are broke. I did have an issue with trying to get any volt readings from Pin 9 and Pin 8 from the accelerator plug not sure if I am doing it right (with the harness plugged into the controller and the key in the on position I connected my positive probe to Pin 9 and my negative probe to Pin 8 on the accelerator plug and got no readings at all. Please let me know if I am doing it wrong and if so how should I be doing it. I have also noticed that I do not hear the clunk sound when I release the emergency brake not sure if this is an issue that corresponds with the current error 21 I’m dealing with. The alarm does sound if I have the key turned off and the emergency brake is down but no clunk sound when I first release the emergency brake like I used to hear. Thanks for your help
Yes, that sounds as expected.
Now try reading volts on the pin of the plug that mates with the red circle, but the black probe to battery negative.
all 6 of my batteries are at the back end of my golf cart so its too far for me to be able to put my black probe on the battery negative post. Is there another spot I can put the black probe on to get the voltage reading for the red circled pin you have in your picture? I tried using the negative terminal going into the controller but that did not work.
That is the same.
You are testing from B- on controller to the plug terminal that mates with the red circle.
When unplugged there will be no voltage at throttle. Test at the mating plug on the Gem wire harness.
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Im going to go out to the store this afternoon and buy some new probes for my meter. I don’t think my probe is skinny enough to make contact with the corresponding mating pin in the plug from the wire harness, I’m still getting no voltage reading so I’m thinking the probe is not contacting that pin in the plug.
Use a pin or paper clip. There has to be 5v there for the error.
I stuck a paperclip in the corresponding mating pin on the plug from the wire harness and has a zero voltage reading. I put the black probe on the negative post at the controller and the positive touching the paperclip that I stuck in the corresponding mating pin on the plug from the wire harness. Is there another voltage reading I can do? I don’t think I am having issues with my meter since I have been able to test my battery voltages and I also checked the incoming voltage to the controller which was coming in at 75 volts. I can go out and buy a new meter to double check the readings from that pin otherwise what else do you think I should check out?
No, meter is ok if you can check battery volts.
Key is on and 23p connector plugged in?
The expected 5v comes from p9 on the controller.
Try all the pins going to the throttle as that’s quick. Maybe I reversed my drawing or am explaining it wrong.
+5v pin “D” on the plug.
If nothing, stick a pin in wire 9 on controller. A good controller will put out 5v to the throttle.
ok thanks, I will give that a shot this afternoon and let you know what I find out. But yes the key is turned on the master switch is in the on position and the 23p connector is plugged into the controller when I did the previous tests. I’ll test all the pins going to the throttle plug to see if I can get a voltage reading on any of them (red probe touching each pin and black probe connected to the negative post on the controller). If I disconnect the wire harness from the controller and have the key in the on position and the master switch on can I connect my red meter probe to the corresponding p9 in the controller to get a reading or will no power pass if the harness is not connected?
The controller needs battery voltage on p1 and p2 to put out 5v on P9. Which should go straight to D of throttle.
Sometimes there are errors in docs from Gem or Ge. I have a T4 to test if needed.
ok so I tested p9 at both the ends of the harness where it would connect to the throttle pedal and at the end of the harness that is connected to the controller and both locations have no voltage readings (harness plugged in, key on and master switch on) , I also tested all the pins on the plug end that would of connected to the throttle pedal and no voltage to any pins and one showed up as a ground pin. on top of using my multi meter I pulled out my automobile led circuit pen tester and both p1 and p2 at the controller show a hot status but at p9 no status at all on my circuit pen (I just wanted to use that as well to get a quick test to see if any power was going through the wires). Do you think FSIP sent me a defective controller? I sent them mine they bench tested it and showed it was bad, they then mailed me a rebuilt one, now I’m wondering if the one they sent me is defective.
Does it still come up with high voltage error 21?