You need to check the dc/dc converters. You have four wires. Two are 72 volts in and the other two are 12 volts out. Chances are you have 72 volts going in and not 12 volts coming out.
Hey, did you ever fix your issue? Did it work?
I still have not done mine
Hello David, would it too much trouble to get a copy of the manual? Thank you so much. Gearheadjocass@yahoo.com
Manual sent >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thank you! My issue is I have no power to gauge or to motor controller…I am a diesel mechanic and have no experience with electric cars. After going through the manual I will be starting on the switch pinpoint test after my initial troubleshooting without technical info I checked voltage on service switch I have 72 volts on one leg but nothing on the other…is this switch pretty straight forward meaning should have 72 volts on both wires when it’s on? Didn’t see much in manual regarding testing switch itself.
Everything on these is pretty straight forward so if you know basic electrical which I’m sure you do you can diagnose repair these.
I’m assuming that your are referring to the service disconnect switch. If so it’s just an on/off switch and should have power on both sides in the on position and only one side in the off position. If it’s bad make sure you buy a high voltage switch to replace it with and not a typical 12 volt automotive one.
FYI I have found a lot of mistakes in the shop manual especially with the pinpoint test so if you’re following a pinpoint test and it tells you to replace a component make sure it makes sense. Several are backwards, meaning if your answer to a pinpoint test is yes the correct action you should do is listed under no and vise versa.
So so I don’t have the 72 volts going to it and at the parts section of the manual it does not have a part number any suggestions on where I can get this switch?
I am sorry I do have 72 volts going to it but nothing coming out.
NEV Accessories has one for $38 plus shipping but I’m sure you can find one at a fraction of the price as their prices are usually extremely inflated.
Any idea what amperage the original switch is? There is no info on it.
No but I would go with at minimum of 20 amps
Hey David, thanks for all the help so far I really appreciated. So after doing some research I found out that switch is a 120 vac 20 amp switch. Got one from locally for a third of the price. I now here a click at contactor and have 72 volts at both posts all the time while service switch is on. My question to you is can the vehicle function without the cluster? Cluster does not light up but will the vehicle move without it?
Yes the cluster can stop it from running.
Ok looking at the schematics there is a 12volt output going to motor and motor controller…do you think if I power probe that wire on the connector I would bypass the cluster and get it to run?
Meaning the connector at the cluster.
I would check all the power and grounds going to the cluster to make sure the cluster is the problem and not something simple like a blown fuse or broken wire… If that checks out then start checking outputs and if voltage is not present where it should be you could jumper voltage to that circuit to see if that solves your problem. Just don’t jump voltage where it doesn’t belong.
David, I was reading an old post and you said you had the device manual. If you still have it I would love to have it also. I’m trying to track down a problem now put in new lithium’s now the main solenoid goes on and off and guage panel came on one time and now nothing. Lights or blinkers won’t come on either. My email is rigdonglass@yahoo.com
Manual sent >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
They look like they came but nothing in them or they won’t open. Any thoughts on my problem. No dash lights at all but still no lights or wipers. But goes foward and back fine. Just put the magic magnet on it and got 5 more mph. I’m just gonna try and back feed some 12 volts into the steering colum. I guess
It’s probably the dc/dc converters. See if you have 12 volts at the power point (cigarette lighter) If you do the wiring will reach from one dc/dc converter to the other. The second converter is on the backside of the upper back hood frame so you have to reach underneath to get to it. The converters have four wires. Two 72 volt power and ground going in and the other two wires should be 12 volts power and ground coming out. If the converts are bad I would look into buying a new Delta Q charger with a built-in dc/dc converter and just sell your old charger t recoup some of the money. evdrives.com sell a new old stock charger for $275 shipped if you call them they will expedite shipping for free.