02 Ford Think: Service switch/fuse panel rewire (need pic or diagram)

Hello David,

Still not seeing any emails from you directly to my personal email??? I only get your reply that is posted on this forum sent to me. I assume you are sending the manual from your personal email to; bblags@fromthesehands.com, as an attachment, yes?

Maybe you could try one of my other email addresses. From These Hands is my domain name but any emails to it go to my Comcast address below:

bblags@comcast.net

While you are at it you could also cc; bblags@gmail.com.

Sorry for the trouble, there must be some quirky thing going on. Thanks for trying.

One other idea would be to use Dropbox, not super familiar but I have had to resort to that for larger files.

Yes I’m sending as an attachment. I haven’t run into a problem sending them before to other people. I resent to all three emails.

Thanks David, got it via my gmail address. Not sure why it did not come through my Comcast address but now I can start the troubleshooting! Will be in touch with my progress.

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I specialize on Ford Thinks only, and there’s a major safety concern I have to address immediately. The 12 Volt nominal system is actually 13.0 Volts, and the negative lead from the DC-DC Sevcon converter is tied to the frame of the vehicle, hence it’s also a negative ground automobile.

The 72 Volt nominal battery pack is NOT connected to any ground, and particularly NOT the vehicle frame. The battery pack should be referenced as +72 (Positive), and 72 Volt (Negative, or RETURN), but not as ground. If you have ever notices the ‘Lightning Bolt’ icon on the cluster, that signifies an unsafe condition exists where the battery pack is sensing potentially dangerous condition where there’s a problem with the ‘isolation’.

You do not need a working DC/DC Converter for the car to charge and operate, although no ‘12 Volt’ accessories will work (lights, horn, wipers, brake lights, etc) and the Brake Icon will remain illuminated all the time. You MUST use an isolated DC-DC Converter for safety, and this will always be a 4 or more wiring connector (+72V in, 72V return, +12V out, 12 Return). You can buy cheap imported DC/DC Converters for $35, but don’t do it. It can kill you!

The DC/DC converter is NOT influenced by the instrument cluster. You don’t even need to have a cluster in the Think, or connected. You do need a working DC/DC Converter, working cluster, good fuses, working MFS switch, key switch and working DC relay, for the headlights and tail lights to work.

  1. Turn on the SDS switch.
  2. Press the brake Pedal.
  3. If the brake lights fail to illuminate, it’s 99% the DC/DC Converter.
  4. However, they may be dim. The Sevcon DC/DC Converter normally fails with only 8 - 10 Volts out, not the 13.0, so the entire 12 Volt system may be weak, dim slow, or not working.
  5. Pressing the horn switch may also show whether the Converter is working, but there’s a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that addresses that the horn fails all the time, and it may also be a failure in the Multi-Function Switch which sits between the horn buttons and the wiring harness. Both of these don’t require the cluster, DC Relay, key switch, etc because they are safety-related functions.

I was a massive contributor to 4dsonly.com forum before it shut down years ago.

Scott Taylor
Electrons In Motion LLC

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Hello Dave,
Can you send me a copy of the full manual to fjpabalan@aol.com?
Thank you!

Received. Can’t thank you enough!

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Dave would you send a copy of the manual ford think manual to me also? Thanks in advance. jclouz@gmail.com

Hello David,
You seem to be the specialist on these carts. I just was given one with a charge issue, and I would love the manual.
Mine is a 2002 Ford Think
Email is cmcltd@aol.com

Thank you in advance

Manual sent…

Hi David
I was researching same issue I have with my 02 think golf cart.
Sometimes everything works, all of the sudden they go out yet cart runs fine!
Could you send copy of service manual please?
Thank you!
dillardmcentyre@gmail.com

Copy sent. Check the dc/dc converters. They have battery voltage and battery ground going in and should have over 12 volts coming out. The Orange wires are the high voltage wires.

Hello Dave,
Thank you for what you sent.
Do you by chance have a schematic for this car?
2002 Think
I didn’t see it in the manual, or perhaps I missed it.
Thank you again for your help, its awesome!
Chip

All I have is the manual. All the schematics I’ve needed I have found in the electrical section.

David, can you please send me a copy of the Ford think service manual? Also, I just purchased this 2002 Ford Think with ION batteries, in trouble shooting I found that the lower of the 3 fuses by the Master Switch is blown. 1, what are the 3 fuses for? 2, what sizes are the 3 fuses? Thanks for your help!
Dctamm57@gmail.com

Manual sent

Page 14 in the electrical section describes what the fuses are for and the amps. These are high voltage fuses not 12 volt fuses as used in cars.

Thanks a ton for your help and rapid response!

David, I went through the manual that you sent and began troubleshooting my Ford Think. Well the battery pack seems fine but the 10amp fuse keeps blowing, so I guess my cluster is shot! Do you have a rebuilder or source for a new one to recommend? I found a guy, Bob the Cluster guy that says he will rebuild and upgrade for $450. Have you any knowledge of him?
Thanks for your assistance!

David, I went through the manual that you sent and began troubleshooting my Ford Think. Well the battery pack seems fine but the 10amp fuse keeps blowing, so I guess my cluster is shot! Do you have a rebuilder or source for a new one to recommend? I found a guy, Bob the Cluster guy that says he will rebuild and upgrade for $450. Have you any knowledge of him?
Thanks for your assistance!

I hav a 2002 ford think and my headlights, wipers, turn signals are inop. I replaced the multi switch and now the hazards will work intermittently but still nothing els. I tried a new really with no luck. Fuses also look good ? Could it be the dc/dc converter? Also could I get a copy of the service manual?

Yes you need to see what voltage the dc/dc converters are putting out. The RD/BU wire at the dc/dc converters should have 12-14 volts. Just put your voltmeter from the RD/BU wire and the Black wire at the converter. The wiring will reach from one converter to the other so if you have one that’s bad and the other is good you can switch the wiring to get the lights working. If both converters are bad I would upgrade to a new delta q charger with a built in dc/dc converter from evdrives.com. It’s much cheaper than buying new converters and you can sell your old charger. You will need to do some rewiring but it’s not that difficult.
https://evdrives.com/new-old-stock-delta-q-quiq-icon-on-board-72v-battery-charger-922-7254-with-dc-dc-converter/