Sent, let me know if you didn’t get it.
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Received. Thank you kindly!
Sent, let me know if you didn’t get it.
I did get it, I am new to the whole forum thing, I appreciate it.
I am in Kansas, highway patrol said mine is the first think
licensed, I know of a few others around and they must not be
licensed
Thank you
Danny Sosebee
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Hello David, So look like someone hacked the wiring harness…I have 72 volts at the batteries…cluster comes on with Charge Icon…Hazards lights come on intermittently…and when in Reverse the cart beeps but doesn’t roll. Any way I found a wire harness piece in the glove box looks like a 12V DC to DC converter was replaced. I don’t think it is wired correctly. Any simple wiring diagram you might have or a photo of a properly wired DC to DC converter. Looks like the Ground and Input and Control are wired together…See photos…Thanks!
That look like a cheap Chinese dc to dc converter. The two orange wires on the main harness are the 72 volt inputs. The orange and yellow wire is 72 volt positive and the orange and black is the 72 volt negative. Coming out you should have 12 volts on the red and blue wire and the black wire is the 12 volt ground wire. So check the red/blue and black wires for 12 volts. Looking at your pictures it looks like the converter doesn’t have a 72 volt ground wire which could be a problem as using the frame as a ground is not good. The yellow wire on the converter is a signal wire that turns the converter on so it needs to go to switched 72 volt positive to turn it on. It looks like they just spliced the red and yellow wires together and then hooked them up to the 72 volt positive on the main harness. If so the converter will be on all the time.
The dc/dc converters are expensive and if that one is not working properly I would consider buying a new charger with a built-in dc/dc converter from www.evdrive.com for $280 shipped and just sell your old one to recoup a large portion of the cost. You would have to rewire to make it work but once done it would be worry free.
Whats the model number of the Charger? Also what would be the procedure?
Thanks
The charger is now $275 922-7254 with DC/DC converter. You need to tell them what batteries you have so they can program the right algorithm into the charger.
Did you see if the DC/DC converter is putting out 12 Volts? You may have more than one problem. For the charge icon the charger sends a ground signal to the instrument cluster to turn the light off and allows the engine to run. It’s the green/black wire from the charger to the cluster. You might want to see that the charger is not sending the ground signal otherwise you maybe looking at a bad instrument cluster. If it’s not sending the signal you can ground the green/black wire and that should turn the light off.
It’s fairly easy to wire the new charger if you are comfortably doing wiring. You just need to splice the power and ground wires for the charge circuit and do the same for the 12 volt circuit. I ran my interlock wire straight to ground so I disabled my interlock (charge icon). I know the interlock can be wired so it works properly but I never spent the time to figure it out. When I first installed my new charger I wired it up and the interlock worked but shortly after a resistor in my instrument cluster fried. Come to find out the charger was sending a low voltage signal on the interlock circuit when the charger was plugged in so I obviously had it wired wrong so I opted to just eliminate it so I won’t have to worry about it again.
Sorry for the late reply been crazy around here. Manual sent, let me know if you don’t get it.
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Mr David,
I’m having some electrical issues and you seem to be pretty knowledgeable on the system. I picked up this think and it has some issues to say the least. First thing was the lgnition, replaced it. Then noticed the cluster wouldn’t power on. So I checked the batteries. Dead. Plugged up the charger and hear a humming noise. My friend checked to see if it was charging and it is. So I made sure the service switch was flipped to the correct location for it to power on and still nothing at the cluster. I found a place call auto scientific, or www.autoecu.com and shipped them my cluster. They deemed it unrepairable and then I purchased a rebuilt one from them. Get it back and plug it in and nothing. I forget we had left the service switch off so I go to switch it on, viola it came on. As I’m having a bit of excitement the cluster starts to smoke a little so I shut the switch back off and unplug the cluster. I’m not really sure what my next step should be. If you could help me diagnose this, it would be amazing. If you would prefer to email that’s fine too. My email is shortmorgan@yahoo.com. Or even text or call. 8032461550.
Thanks in advance.
Shortmorgan
There’s a wire that is wrapped in orange tape at the batteries. It should be at the back of the battery packs on the passenger side. Make sure it is hooked up to battery #1 ground. I’ve seen people think it goes to positive because of the orange tape. If it’s hooked up to the positive battery it will smoke your cluster. Next check all the power and grounds to the cluster. Also check that the interlock signal wire to the cluster doesn’t have any power when the charger is not plugged in. That wire should be grounded when the charger is plugged in. Last check to make sure the contactor is not shorted which is also a known problem with these.
Do you have any indicators of which wires on the plug should be hot? Etc…
What I mean by that is, when I check the plugs on the back of the cluster for hot or ground, is there a diagram of what should go to where. And what should be hot. Etc… I’m just sort of stuck. Not really sure what my next step should be. I checked the little orange wire and it’s correct. Any thoughts?
Sorry for the late reply. Under the Electrical Section Pages 202 and 203 in the shop manual show the connectors and what each pin does. If you need help testing the contactor let me know.
Hello David,
My name is Bruce and I just joined this Forum. I am the Facilities Manager at the CYO Camp in Occidental, CA. Our agency received a donation of 5 of the Ford Think NEV’s back in 2004 and for many years used them out at our Camp. Long story short I now have the only remaining one of that batch. Put in new batteries and it was running fine even though the display only showed the battery charger icon. And then…. moved it one night no problem and then the next morning turned it on and nothing. Turned out over the years mice had eaten the wiring behind the keyed switch and it shorted out that morning when I went to start it. I only had a basic wiring diagram for it, that somehow I since have misplaced, but was able to determine the 72/12V converter was shot, no 12v output. Put a new one in and verified it is working but it appears I have other problems as I get no hint of movement and nothing on the display.
Is there a chance I could get a hold of the service manual from you? It would much appreciated. If you or anyone else had any ideas as to what to check next that would be appreciated. I was thinking of looking at having the display rebuilt as it might have been affected by the original short and surge that may have occurred??
Thanks for the help, looks like I should have found this forum sooner as I just saw your comment from July 2019 about replacing the charger with a built in converter. I still may have to do that because the charger is giving a warning red light flashing twice, which is supposedly low battery voltage but the batteries are new and measure 72-73 volts. Ah, the fun begins!
Bruce Blagsvedt
bblags@FromTheseHands.com
Manual sent.
Check to make sure you have battery pack voltage at the charger. Also check the ground wire to the charger.
The first thing you need to do is check the controller for codes. Go to page 24 of the electrical section and see if it will self test. May not work if the instrument cluster isn’t working.
Check the power and ground wires to the instrument cluster. Page 202 and 203 shows what each wire does and pin location. Voltage return is ground if you didn’t know. Also make sure you have voltage to the ignition switch and it is sending the voltage at each switch position. See page 57
I have found several mistakes in the manual especially with the pinpoint tests so don’t believe everything it says. Ask before replacing anything that is expensive.
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Thanks for quick response David and for pointers on what to check next. I have not seen the manual yet though. Did you send it separately to my email?
Here is my email again;
bblags@fromthesehands.com
Just sent it again, let me know if you don’t get it.