I have a 2007 GEM e4. Purchased secondhand. It ran well for a year. Then brushes fell out of motor, big spark, and has had issues ever since. Replaced motor. Replaced battery with lithium. Got rebuilt computer. Got rebuilt accelerator. Went from. moving slowly to not moving at all.
Lots of friends have tried to get it running, with no luck. Finally brought in a professional today. I had a manual, with some wirining info, but it lacks detail on the hand brake relays. Does anyone have a wiring diagram with info on what it should read, 5 volts? (The orange wire with black stripe)
Wiill a problem with the handbrake stop mot
if not 100% released?
We do get a “clack” sound when pedal is depressed, but car does not move.
Got a rebuilt computer from Ride4fun, but seems worse than the original computer, no clack of solenoid with that computer hooked up.
Any suggestions on where to get a totally new accelerator / Computer combo?
When is the next time you are back out at the car to check a few things?
Yes, if the handbrake loop is active, it will light up the brake light on the dash and the car will not move.
I find it curious that you mention that “clack” (main relay closing). This is a good sign that the controller is ready for pedal activity. Whatever you did with the handbrake means it is OK.
Do you hear any high pitch whine coming from the motor?
The Orange/bk wire is actually B- (-72v). It is switched by one of the twin 12v relays mounted up on the front wall under the windshield. This relay is triggered by 12v coming in on the tan wire from the hand brake. This relay sends B- to Pin 13 on the controller which clears the hand brake alarm.
The other relay also uses the same 12v (when hand brake down) to make/break B- on a loop coming in/out of the PSDM to sound the steady beep when KeyOFF (so you do not walk away without setting the brake). The steady beep also helps locate your car when it rolls down the hill and tucks neatly out of sight in the neighbor’s ditch.
I will be back at the GEM tomorrow. Meanwhile, attached is a video I took yesterday. I didn’t hear a high pitched whine.
My mechanic asked how many volts we should be seeing on the wires from the little black boxes on the right side near the windshield. I forget what they are called, but they have something to do with the handbrake. He did all the tests in the instruction manual about testing the accelerator pedal and resistance and all that and he says the accelerator pedal tests out okay but we get error 21 and the car doesn’t move when we put our foot on the accelerator pedal and he’s saying the manual doesn’t say what to do after you test all those things and they all check out okay what’s the next step if it’s not the accelerator pedal?
Thanks so much for helping!
I live off grid in the jungle at the west end of the country of Panama. There are roads here, but no lights and only two stop signs. People drive ATVs, Golf carts and boats everywhere, but hardly any “real” cars. No GEM technicians whatsoever in the this part of the country. I was lucky to find a person who can trace a circuit and test ohms. He does golf cart repairs, but mostly club cars & EZ go’s. Most people here have never seen a GEM. So if you can walk me through some troubleshooting steps, I would appreciate it.
I wish I could, but I don’t know enough GEM specific info like some of the other guys here. I have only worked on one, mine, and always in person.
Troubleshooting in person it a lot easier in my opinion, but troubleshooting electronic and electrical systems I have never seen before is what I did as a profession, but only in person. If you are that far out, I understand why you had such a hard time finding someone that is able to at least try to help. AssyRequired is very good at this.. Hopefully he is able to help with the process.
We are off grid, and have a big solar system with 18 panels and inverter system. If you came here, you’d never know we are off grid - we have fridges, swimming pool pumps, lights, dishwasher, washer & dryer, a/c, etc.
I spent some time boat sitting down there in Gulfito. Neat place. Tons of exploring. I heard there are quite a few retreats like yours hidden away down there.
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Don’t get fixated on the hand brake loop. If you are getting the main relay clack, then you need to look elsewhere.
Such as the wrench light and display showing -21.
Is this an intermittant code? or whenever you KeyON? Throttle pedals are tricky to diagnose. I don’t agree/or follow the troubleshooting guide.
From the GE Tech pages:
-21 - Accelerator voltage is too high.
This status code will be displayed when the accelerator voltage at P7 is greater than 4.5 volts.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Accelerator input is mis-adjusted or defective.
Input voltage at P7 should be less than 4.5 volts after initial key switch closure.
Open wire exists between potentiometer negative and P8.
Open wire exists between P7 and potentiometer wiper.
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I (personally) have issues with the troubleshooting guide.
If this issue appeared AFTER people have been poking at it, then it is probably directly related to them trying to help. The guide steps through direct probing the 23pin connector going up to the controller. Depending on the tools (meter probes), when jammed into the connector pins (looking for electrical gremlins) it actually damages the pin/sockets to where they make flaky contact when jacked back into the controller.
Test this:
With -21 dominant on the display push/pull the wire harness one way or the other to see if the error clears. Else, pull the 23p connector and give it a spritz with electrical contact spray (if you can find some down there) and reinstall plug with a wiggle skritch until you hear it click when it locks into place (I don’t recall if a KeyOFF/ON cycle needs to happen to clear the code or if it will clear itself when the problem clears).
Pay special attention to Pin8 (which is B-)(-72v). Ref B+.
(Note: I have conflicting diagrams that some cars may have B- on P9)
Test this on the controller plug with MainBatSwON, KeyOFF.
