Spark Lithium conversion

I wanted to share some photos of my 2013 Gem E4 from Nissan Leaf to Chevy Spark.

The old system used 1 20 cell 65 amp hr battery and the new system will have 3 110 amp hr batterys running 24 cells

The first thing will be to do is mount the batterys. These spark batteries are just slightly larger then Stock flooded lead acid batterys. The will not fit inside smaller batteries trays. I needed to mount the 2 outside batteries on THE TOPS of the Stock battery trays

here is the Stock battery tray

I decided to add angle aluminum to the inside of the battey box so that the new battery had a place to sit. I also added angle aluminum to the outside edge of the battery tray

Now with the larger footprint the new battery has a place to sit.

The center tray that normally holds 2 flooded lead acid batterys is plenty wide for the New Spark battery to sit sideways. I don’t have to do anything to mount the center battery

Do you have a picture with battery slid forward?
Any ideas for these? I hate to cut them in half.
Similar to yours but 4 pcs 12s. You have 3 pcs 16s.
Be nice to find room for 2 pcs 24s as pictured.
They fit in my E4 truck easily.MVC-010F

Hello, anybody home?:face_with_raised_eyebrow:

Here is a pic of the battery in a more realistic mounting position

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What are you waiting for?
Hook up the wires and drive!
You don’t need no stinking bms.

Oh, it’s in the mail. :grinning:

I’m stalling sales until I know it works.
People are waiting.

This week maybe?

Wait this thing might not work??? LOL j/K I have no doubt it will work just fine

Not worried, you can make anything work. I need to know if an average mechanic can do it.

This is a Honest 1-2 day job for anyone with a set of tools. I’m dragging my butt because I have so many other things going on a a beautiful lake calling me down to it every day :slight_smile:
I will get it going by next week.

The hardest part of this job is getting the mounting of the batteries and once I get that figured out it will be easy for the next guy

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And the heat is terrible. Got up in the 80s again today.:laughing:

Come down to Phoenix, the monsoon season is in full blast. One second it’s raining then the sun comes out and oh the humidity with the heat!

I have recently been trying to find a economical way to upgrade a eM140 or Ranger EV to Lithium. I can’t believe that the straight OEM upgrade is almost $12,000 for Ranger EV and there is no retrofit for eM1400! The Ranger requires double the ah than eM1400 so probably would need more packs in parallel.

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Google suggests 8kwh to match lead acid range.
A full volt pack is 16 to 18 kwh.
You can find new for $5k. Used for $1500 to $2500.
I make harnesses for parallel connection of balance leads.
I’m bidding on 100ah 320wh new batteries. Hope to sell for $50 to $75 each.
20 to 30 should work. Depends on fitment.
See my battery thread…

The process of the install is part of the fun for me. As soon as I installed the new mounting surface I ran into the problem of how am I gonna mount this thing down. Tradition battery mounts will not work. The battery needs to be free of mounts when it’s being squeezed into its space. Then once the battery is in place good luck getting to any sort of traditional battery mount. I came up with this. Concept

I’m gonna use the shoulder of the battery to run this rod threw the battery. I’m NOT going to use the all thread to gonthrew the rod. I’m going to use a a Eye Bolt. The eye bolt will work like the all thread but it will allow me to use a a thicker larger more sturdier tie down. The eye bolt will go down to the bottom of the car and then I will have a strap that the bolts attach to so in theory it will sandwich down the battery. So the good part will be that all the bolting Dow of the battery will be done under the car where I have plenty of room

Great, going to relay this to my sales manager. A dairy farm is looking to go from a fleet of combustible engines to electric and need something that will last a good amount of the day. They will be used in 110+ temperature so don’t know if there is an easy way to use the water jackets because they will be abused and need to be dependable.

As you can see with the last picture I posted the cooling fittings are going to be 100% usable and because I’m using the the mounting configuration I’m using you can get to the fittings no problem. So if you wanted to hook up the cooling system it would not be that much more work. The BMS that dave sells has a TEMP probe that you can see on the dash what the battery temp would be