Yes, a switch from B+ to p2 will turn the a.c. system on.
Your wire from the gem circuits may keep it turned on unless it is disconnected. As I recall your problem is turning off the power.
If that is the case, cut the p2 wire and put a switch inline to turn off power.
An easy to get at emergency stop switch will be better for safety. If throttle switch sticks or motor runs away, you need a way to kill power.
Ok… got it. Will report back. Thank you
Made some progress tonight…
Decided to verify/change the gear lube. I dropped in a new-to-me gearbox and realize I didn’t verify that even had oil in it. Figured it couldnt hurt to service that and change the fluids. Check.
Built this little switch to run from B+ to p2.
Works like a charm in that the Sevcon ISN’T powering up with the switch off and IS with the switch on. Win. Now I’m getting 4 blinks when I turn the power on. My guess is its accelerator related. Given WOT ~11v… that’s got to be getting power from the DC/DC converter… which is currently unplugged.
Along those lines, I was talking to the GEM dealer trying to get the converter covered under recall. Explained the symptoms of p2 getting low voltage with the master being turned on and staying on even when the key is cycled on and off, they are convinced the DC/DC converter is bad. Trying to convince them to replace it under recall but in the meantime, I did happen to get one from @MikeKC 's contact anthony… so I’ll try to install that tomorrow night.
Would be sweet to get a test run around the block without the 12v system. @Inwo @MikeKC any idea what the 4 flash code is?
GEM is getting throttle voltage from Sevcon - The quick connect labeled PotW needs to stay below 11v for the throttle to work, but that was working before so I don’t think that is your issue.
Four blinks is and contactor issue.
4 Line contactor welded S Line contactor closed at power up
or after coil is de-energized.
Check line contactor
condition/wiring.
4 Line contactor did not
close
S Line contactor did not close when
coil is energized.
Check line contactor
condition/wiring.
4 flash is a new one. What are you doing now? 
Main contactor did not pull in.
My guess is that your key switch is not on.
To run without key switch, a second wire should be run from sevcon to contactor.
I suggest you wire contactor direct from Sevcon.
The way its wired now is my idea and makes the conversion plug and play. However only in a working car without wiring issues.
Your car seems to be a nightmare, and others will not experience the need for 2 week technical support. If they do we may not stay in business long. At least not Mike, he has a real job!
Remove and tape the two coil wires.
Run two new small leads from controller to contactor coil.
Polarity doesn’t matter.
Make sure you understand this. Mistake can get expensive at this point.
If not sure have someone interpret for you. I’m not always easy to follow.
1 Like
Did we ever get the throttle info? Been a while. 
As David said Turn on your new switch and then the key and see if you contactor pulls in.
@Inwo - I don’t think I put a wire on pin4 of the Sevcon so we would have to ship him a header wire and he would have to take it appart and add the wire.
Not from Ernida15 - as we have not had to troubleshoot his throttle. Different install. Erniea15 had wheels turning but only had the 12v issue.
Easy enough to wire without it.
You explain it though.
Disconnect only the B+ wire from coil, and power coil from your new fused switch.
The A/C Conversion + SEVCON piece seems to be pretty plug and play. I’m guessing this is self-inflicted from me hooking up the green and black wires backwards when wiring up the controller. Thank you both for bearing with me! I certainly appreciate the help. 
My apologies. I was looking at a composite of issues from all users.
Unlike Mike I lump them all together. 
No worries here… you guys are helping out so many folks in various threads, I’m impressed @mikeKC can keep them straight!
Let me try this
That got the contactor to activate.
Now I get solid green on the controller… but doesn’t move in forward, reverse, or neutral. Doesn’t throw an error either.
I did check P WOT and it’s going up and down with the application of the accelerator.
Adding PCB voltages with the new switch on, contactor activated
Pot W = 0
F = -2.8
PB = .29
R = 41.7
RG = .19
D1 = 38.4
FS1 = 42.6
MC = .24
KS = .2
Pot H = .2
I still have Pin21 disconnected… if that matters or not
F is suspect.
I misspoke saying that car will run with only P 1&2.
It will, but only if the F, R, and FS1 are getting the correct signal.
Turning the key on should get you back to running.
Then turn off both switches off to shut down.
Sorry for the trouble. Once Gem issues are thrown in the mix, it complicates things.
Made some forward progress… had to wait on some parts which slowed me down a little bit. Got the new DC to DC converter hooked up. Haven’t checked any of the 12volt stuff like lights yet… but now the key is working like it should. Disco switch on and key off, nothing. Key on, contactor activates, SEVCON, and PCB come to life. Turn off the key and everything goes off. I removed the manual switch I made earlier going from Battery + is P2 and the contactor.
The wheels spin in the right direction. I haven’t gone more than 5 mph but the issue I’m running into now is when I let go of the accelerator, it lunges (almost like you drop out the clutch in a manual car when in too low of a gear), and I get 11 flashes on the SEVCON. I cycle the key and I can putt down the road until I let off the accelerator again.
Pulling voltage reads on the PCB with the key on -
Pot W = 0
F = -.4
PB = .0
R = 44.3
RG = 0
D1 = .56
FS1 = 44.2
MC = 38
KS = 88.5
Pot H = 10.8
Any idea what error code 11 is?
Thanks
googled and found the manual
Error code 11
OK, you are going to have to remind us where we are at.
Did you switch the F and D1 wires on the PCB, I thought I remember you doing that?
With your readings above you did not state what gear you were in F/L/R (Don’t forget you need to switch out of gear and back in gear to activate the gear.).
Your readings show that your might be in D1 (both F and D1 are low).
We need a reading of PotW at idle and full throttle.
Once we have all this we can double check the Encode wires. But make sure that they are not close to any battery cables or phase wires - give them some clearance. (these are the four wires that plug into the motor)
Yeah, still in this state. Disconnected D1 hanging. Moved F to D1.
Foward
I noticed this but wasn’t sure if it was normal behavior or not. This is good to know.
Just threw dinner on the table, will get this in a sec.
idle 1.2
full throttle - 10.77
