@RS_E6 thanks for the link to the thread measure set… just ordered it. Also, I added one more washer between the shock and the mount and that gave me plenty of clearance. When I tightened everything up, didn’t seem like there was much rattling.
I was able to get the Sevcon mounted where the T2 was. It’s a tight fit with the delta Q up there but it’s in. Next up is making cables from the controller to the motor.
@mikekc posting the guidance you PM-ed when you sent the gear so others can see
Since your controller is under the dash you will may or may not want to use the standoff I included in the box to mount the PCB board to the Neg. terminal.
There are three extra spade connectors on the PCB board you can use any of those to run to battery ground, that is all the board needs to function. It gets Positive from the factory GEM harness. You can mound the PCB board anywhere you wish.
Your Phase wires are a follows:
M1=U. M2=V. M3=W.
Things to keep in mind:
Try and keep the phase battery wires (M1, M2, M3), positive and Negative wires as far from the Encoder wires (the four wires in a separate bundle) as possible - a couple inches or further if possible.
Make sure all your cable connections have good clearance from each other and body parts.
question - if i put the PCM board on the negative terminal, do i still need to ground it on one of the 3 spade connectors?
Nice floor mats! I remember when @grantwest put them up for sale, hadn’t put it together until now that you were the one that bought them.
I’ve used that thread checker more than expected in the short time I’ve had it. It’s nice that they are on a wire so you can get into tight spaces compared to having them mounted on a rigid board.
OK, a little at a time.
First - the parking break no longer activates the contactor (the clunk)
You should get the clunk as soon as you turn on the key.
As David just posted three flashing lights is an over voltage or power issue.
Make sure all your connections are clear of each other. Make sure the PCB board is not grounding or touching anything.
Double check your B+ an B- on the controller, make sure they are correct and clear.
I pulled up some old pictures just to make sure I didn’t screw anything up… and, I did, realized I took the 3 green wires and black w/ grey stripe and connected them to B- instead of B+.
I think the earlier gems might need the dc/dc converter. I bought a 2002 that I flipped from the local electric car club a while back. They narrowed down the issues with the car not working to the Dc/dc converter. I told them that is was recalled and they could get the part for free but they just wanted to get it out of there. I towed it straight to the dealer, they replaced the dc/dc converter, charged the batteries and I was off to the races. Just had to pay them to deliver it to me
OK, we are getting somewhere
The fault code in neutral is expected, accl pushed, car not in gear - error.
Looks like the controller and PCB are working, you just need to figure out your key switch issue.
We can work on Tuff mode later if you wish, we may or may not get that to work.
Try disconnecting a wire from the switch.
P2 of your original plug is getting battery voltage from someplace.
From the charger maybe. Disconnect things until the power light on pcb goes out.
disconnected the key, still getting power to the PCB.
disconnected the DC-DC converter, reconnected the key. No power to the PCB.
I’m thinking I either fried the DC/DC converter when I hooked up those wires backwards… or it’s just a coincidence in timing when it failed. I was having issues with the car “stuttering” which felt like the car was turning on/off at certain speeds… that accelerated this project because I was thinking it was the motor. Now I’m 1/2 wondering if it was the DC/DC converter just going bad.
We should be able to get you running without 12v. All you need to run our system is B+ to p2.
Nothing Gem is used except throttle and switches.
So are you ready to run?
Ended up ordering a DC/DC converter replacement from Mike’s guy Antony. It’s under recall but I’d still have to haul it up there and/or have them pick it up to get it covered… and I have a feeling when they see that most of the components are far from factory, they won’t do it anyway. Path of least resistance and quickest to getting me back to roadworthy.
Back to getting it running without 12v so I can get the AC setup dialed in. Do I run a wire from the other side of the contactor (side where the battery + is connected to) to the t1-> t2 “tap”. Should I put a fuse and a switch? I’m only planning to have this temporary for testing until I can get the DC/DC converter replaced.
