Nothing New here just thought I would share.
Thanks To Dave for supplying the Motor, Controller & and Program to get this things going.
This is a 2008 E4, My buddy Ken lives atop a mountain very similar to Kathmandu in the Himalayan’s. His car had a torque motor in it that motor up the hill just fine but it wasn’t fast enough we put a 7.5 speed motor in the car and it wouldn’t make it up the hill. (Yes it’s that steep I’m not joking) so the only other option was the big AC motor conversion the car already has a 20 Cell bolt pack And the cars got pretty much everything you could ever want so an AC conversion was pretty much the last thing.
Yes Good eye!
I’m gonna add a piece of rubber to the edge of the stupid washer bracket to make sure it don’t rub. I need to zip tie everything down & back
Part 2 Tomorrow
@Reddevil
Yep those are the motors we use for the AC Conversions. I think we have done about 15 or so now. Most are all three bolts, if you turn the motor just right on some gear boxes you can get five but I have only had a couple that I was able to do that on. Three appear to work fine, the gear box lip and the input shaft help as well.
No Kidding and they are grade 8.8 (never knew this grade) I thought Grade 8 was the hardest the gold ones.
Matt took the time to make all the holes mount up that was cool. But I notice most of the weight rides on the Input shaft. So no matter how many grade 8 bolts you have installed all that needs to Happen is the motor needs to ride on the imput shaft
We got closer today we got to drive & figure out some problems. Thanks to Dave & Mike, for parts and Phone Support. The car for sure is alot faster More torque & speed.
Found out that the Stock breaker/On & Off switch (under the dash) Is a week point. After only a few hill climbs we smelled burning. Turns out it was the Breaker/switch. So we will need to find a new switch or work around on that.
I’ll bring the Computer home and do some basic tuning and finish this install next week
Power switch is a known failure point.
I use Anderson plugs on some of mine.
Either use a pair to disconnect both leads, or use one to bypass oem switch. Complete circuit with a shorting plug.
500a
Hot plug 100a 120vdc 250 times.
You won’t find a switch that can do that.
Big Smiles Here at Conversion Center!!!
Car Hauls A$$ up “Mt NeverRest” regen is awesome all good!!!
Thanks To Mike for the AC File all is good
Big thanks To David for all his help and parts!
Only adjustment I made was contactor pull in voltage and re-gen . I still have to make a water box for the Pc Board and Strap the Ram Horn.
Looks awesome. Move encoder wires away from phase cables. Cross-talk possibility.
Rubber mat over pcb is good enough. Pot the board with 2 coats of liquid tape. @MikeKC, why was coil pull in volts 48v?
Looks like a winner dcf. If Grant’s happy everyone will be happy.
I had encoder A-B reversed, and no turf/D1 diodes. Other than that plug and play.
I’m sure the genuine KC motor kits are 100% now.
Not sure about the coil pull in voltages, I had them set to 70 and 60 I think? I don’t know what they were at?
I think we have everything pretty much perfect at this point - the only thing a customer needs to tell us is how much regen and how much speed?
Did you close out of DVT, restart the controller and then restart DVT and Helper. I have noticed that if you do not restart DVT, Helper does not refresh when you load a new DCF - Guessing that Dave’s might have been set at 48v? and that is why it was making noise?
Just a guess but it does not matter as all is good.
Edited:
Well I stand corrected, just checked the DCF and it was 48… I don’t understand that at all.
