OK, that all looks good. That is a wiring mess but it appears the encoder wires might be clear.
99% of the time when we get stuttering, or surging on a new install it has to do with Battery or Phase wires touching or too close to each other.
The voltages on PotW look perfect - I have it set to 1v and 11v - as long at it does not go above 11v all good there.
It is possible that we got a bad load into the controller? But that seems unlikely.
Can you go above 5mph? you just have chosen no to do so?
Does the jerk when you let off the throttle happen in reverse?
I don’t have my encoder wiring in front of me but I would think that the encoder is either going to work or not.
Pin 14 is Encoder A
Pin 15 is Positive Power
Pin 25 is Encoder B
Pin 26 is Negative Power
What I don’t know if what colors those goto on the connector, I will have to check my notes tomorrow. @Inwo - any input on the encoder possibly causing the issue? or other idea’s.
You can also take the PCB board off the controller negative stud and move it way out of the way. Just use a wire from one of the open spade connections next to the 23pin socket to B- on the controller(the board just needs to be grounded, it gets all the other power from the harness). That might allow you to clean up the wiring and space some things out. Just another idea.
2 weeks ago, I took a day off work to spend some time with the GEM. I was able to get the front end all put back together and have been driving it around. Couple of things I’ve noticed that I’m wondering if it’s normal and/or fixable -
From a dead stop, if I try to accelerate too quickly, the car will fault (I need to pull off the dash and count the controller flashes for error code). Usually it’s a problem when I’m backing out of the driveway and stop where the street meets the sidewalk, I have to accelerate harder to get out of the ditch and if I’m just a little too heavy on the pedal, error. or uphill from a dead stop. We’re not talking too heavy of a foot here to get it to fault. Once I seem to get it rolling, I’m good.
Top end - if I’m going 5-10 mph and I punch it, I’ll get an error. Only way to describe it is the power oscillates until I get an error. It surges up and down. If I ease into top end no problem, it’s just when I slam on the accelerator.
Other issue is I get a growling which seems to be related to torque. If I’m accelerating fast (but not so fast that it’s oscillating), I’ll get a growling which seems to go away as a build momentum. I’m thinking this might have to do with the CV joints and the grease working their way into the bearings etc; I replaced the boots and re-greased when I did this project. Other questionable part is the differential; it’s a used one that I just dropped in… no idea what it’s condition was before I bought it. Hoping this goes away in time and just a matter of grease working it way where it need to go.
Just more of an FYI and why I never got to the shocks on the rear end. When I put everything back together and plugged in the BMS display, quicky saw the battery was grossly out of balance. I had cells as low as 2.5v and up to 4.0. I’m not sure what happened… Thinking maybe the BMS kept trying to balance? I disconnected the display but didn’t think to change the power switch from battery to external until a couple of weeks later after sitting. I was able to slow charge the low cells back up to 3.0v with my iCharger and then get everything manually balanced. They seemed to recover but the second 1/2 of my day that was supposed to going to installing the shocks on the rear went to babysitting a charger to pull up the cells. That took a couple of days to get everything balanced out and charged back up.
Biggest priority would be figuring out the acceleration error from dead stop / slight up hill. Happens to me at stop lights and cars behind me get irritated as I cycle the key and try to get rolling.
Most of these, I’ve been learning how to manage in the way I drive… but I were to give the key to my wife, she’s probably get frustrated with learning the “tricks” to make it go.