Need help with component diagnostics!

Did you use Brawndo? It’s what batteries crave.

Don’t know no Brawndo. Distilled water. Sounds like another lesson is coming up. Every day is a school day.

Let me try it this way -
Don’t pay attention to either of those devices at this point.
They are just guessing, and they are very confused.

Do a full pack check and map all their voltages. Write them down.

Run the car again and check all voltages again. Write them down.

Charge the car again and do a brake stand test, Note how far each battery drops.

Report back with these numbers.

image

At this level of discharge, cart acceleration drops to less than 1/2 that of a full charge, but still will creep up to 30MPH on the GPS. (20 MPH on the BDI).

2 hours charging on the R4F reads 66% charge.

What is a break stand test? I know that I have to stand on the brakes for them to semi-function, but guessing you mean something else.

Those 12.9x volts look like you measured immediately after charging. You should wait 1-2 hours after charging stopped before measuring because you’ll otherwise be measuring a useless surface charge and therefore the voltages tell you nothing much about the battery health.

Brake stand test is a load test where you lift the front wheels off the ground, give it some throttle and then use the brakes to slow down the wheels while still giving it throttle. The brakes are the load, you can hold it somewhat steady while someone measures each battery while it’s being loaded this way.

Okay, I know that every day is a school day, but I’m feeling like the youngest kid in kindergarten here.
Got it on the delay on charged reading. Will re-do. My BDI will climb back to 100% after a short rest after a 3mile ride (liar!).
Guessing there’s some valuable info to be gained from ‘stress testing’ each battery with the brake stand test. (My cardiologist did something similar to me following the stent). Do I need a hypo full of something hidden behind my back like she had, just in case? Gonna listen to what y’all tell me it all means later.
Still researching how best to keep my wet cells in peak condition.

A load test will give a picture of the condition of your batteries when it is running.
A good battery will drop a little but hold at that level.
A bad battery will fall well below the others but act normal at rest.
This one battery easily drags the entire pack down.


Finally got around to doing the test. Nothing seems outragous, but you tell me. Is there any advantage to moving the batteries around?

I’ve been chewing on all these numbers all day. I agree there is not too much out of balance here(which is good) but I think what we are looking at is pointing back to your choice of the DekaDC31DT batteries.

While “Deep Cycle” seems to be the obvious choice of many, they are still just a low draw battery and not really suitable for the high loads a EV can put on them. Any time you are operating down close to 72v (accel) on the main battery you just don’t have any more scoot in the scooter.

It is possible that the internal plates have a good layer of sulfation from all the sitting. Sometimes it can be knocked off with a good overcharge, some say a pulse charger is the real ticket, and I was talking the other day to an old school guy that said all you need to do is drop your bum battery flat onto the concrete a couple times from 4 inches (don’t land it on a corner). He swore it works every time.

Your observation also is a good illustration on how far off the BDI and the R4F estimates are as to how they are coming up with %SOC.

I have a decent 12v charger with a recondition cycle. That takes about 6 hours per battery. I will attempt to rattle the cells before hand, although this cart rides so rough that I cant imagine rattling hasn’t happened every ride. I may consider pursuing a 7th battery.

although this cart rides so rough that I cant imagine rattling hasn’t happened every ride

Good point. Don’t bother with the drop test as it would require dismounting every battery. See if you can find some more details on your 12v “reconditioning” cycle.
Is it pulse? or is it simply just cranking up the V to 20 and cook it?