Need: Build Revisions

EV Small Talk
1

Ok,

So I’m selling my car (http://tucson.craigslist.org/car/739942418.html) to fund my new EV project so i can steer away from GAS… :stuck_out_tongue:

Anyway. Not 100% sure what car i’m going to get to convert yet - but i will know within the next few weeks (I HOPE).

What ever car I get I will be using a conversion kit. THIS is where i’m stumped. What kit?! I priced out an actual KIT from KTA Services, and they were charging about 800 more than the actual parts were… so if i order from them i will most likely put together my own “Custom” conversion kit which will include the following:

ADVANCED DC #203-06-4001A…$1411 (Motor)
CURTIS-PMC #1221C-7401…$1050 (Controller)
CURTIS-PMC #PB-6…$75 (pot box)
ALBRIGHT #SW-200B…$130 (CONTACTOR)
MAGNECRAFT #W389ACX-9…$16 (relay[s])
FERRAZ/SHAWMUT #A15QS400-4…$25 (fuse[s])
FIRST INERTIA SWITCH #FCS1…$55 (safety “inertia” fuse)
G.E. #TQD-200…$140 (Circut breaker)
Breaker Switchplate…$20 (breaker switchplate)
WESTBERG #A2C6-30 & A2C5-28…$110 (instrumentation)
DELTEC #MKB-500-50 & MKA-50-50…$40 (converters for the interments)
ZIVAN #NG1-DC…$490 (DC-DC)
#2/0 Welding Cable KIT…$210 (over quoted cable kit)
ZIVAN #NG-3…$930 (charger)

Total …$3800

More specs for any of the above can be found in the KTA Catalog. (Link Below)
http://www.kta-ev.com/catalog.html

[B]WHAT UP THERE IS NONSENSE?! What do I NOT need, or what should be exchanged with something else?![/B] Please Please PLEASE let me know - those of you that have worked with some hardware before i would SERIOUSLY appreciate that.

Should i upgrade/downgrade anything?

Are there any kits from any other vendors that are price worthy and worth using?

Where would you buy your parts from?

[B][U]BATTERIES[/U][/B]
Two or three options, still heart broken…

A) 12 12v@115 AH @ ~$70 = $850 for a pack
(costco batteries)
B) 16 6v@225AH @ ~$110 = $1760
(http://store.solar-electric.com/cr225am6vode.html)
C) Something you recommend that will get me AT LEAST 30 miles, and 50 MPH.

So before I go and spend thousands on EV parts. Let me know what needs to be adjusted.

[B]MAJOR GOALS FOR EV[/B]

at least 30 miles range
at least 50 mph cruise speed

will settle for anything equal or more. :smiley:

THANKS SO MUCH.

Nick.

2

Some guys have had really good results from the Zilla controller by Cafe Electric. http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/convpgs/mcontrol2.php
It has better performance than the Raptor 600. Certainly is has a smaller foot print due to liquid cooling.

3

[QUOTE=arb;3669]Some guys have had really good results from the Zilla controller by Cafe Electric. http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/convpgs/mcontrol2.php
It has better performance than the Raptor 600. Certainly is has a smaller foot print due to liquid cooling.[/QUOTE]

I have heard many good things about those controllers will do my research now.

What you say “smaller footprint” what are you referring to?

Thanks for your input!

4

im not fully informed about all this but 1 question , why do you think you need a 500 doller dc-dc converter . im preety sure i read the being less expencive ones. hell have a seperate battery for the extras the dc-dc converter would supply would be better , i sapose.

edit: also , instead of a potbox you could go to the local juck yard and cut the trottle position sensor and pigtail and rig the to the pedel for 10 buck +or- . but i say juckyard instead of parts store becuase i doubt they sell the pigtail. sorry if this is a little much , just what popped to mind .

edit agian : it just hit me you could get the tps of you donor car , well if it still has or had the engine and was efi.

5

One expensive item missing from your “kit” is the adaptor to mate the motor to the transmission. Most of the kits I have looked at had one for a specific vehicle or a universal one that you have machined to match your bellhousing.

6

[QUOTE=Moebeast;3719]One expensive item missing from your “kit” is the adaptor to mate the motor to the transmission. Most of the kits I have looked at had one for a specific vehicle or a universal one that you have machined to match your bellhousing.[/QUOTE]

if you have a stedy hand or drill press its not to hard to make your own.
1/4"plate steel or alunimum if your a diardevil . wipe little oil on the bellhousing then squish the plate to it . ‘as the bell housing morethen likely is larger then the motors mounting surface you can trim the extra plate off then so its easyer do the oil trick with the motor’. back to the bellhousing if you didnt smuge the mounting outling you then drill out the bolt holes. repeat for motor side 'might need to hole saw a pilot hole for the shaft.

sorry , kind of have a half track mind . run with what comes. heheh

7

[QUOTE=alhaxit;3728]if you have a stedy hand or drill press its not to hard to make your own.
1/4"plate steel or alunimum if your a diardevil . wipe little oil on the bellhousing then squish the plate to it . ‘as the bell housing morethen likely is larger then the motors mounting surface you can trim the extra plate off then so its easyer do the oil trick with the motor’. back to the bellhousing if you didnt smuge the mounting outling you then drill out the bolt holes. repeat for motor side 'might need to hole saw a pilot hole for the shaft.

sorry , kind of have a half track mind . run with what comes. heheh[/QUOTE]

you hit the spot.

I refuse to spend 750 on an adapter plate. I’m almost positive i can make one myself.

Yeah i thought DC DC converters were that much but i have been mistaken. I found a 25A one for 99$ on the Kelly Controller website. :smiley: Question regarding DC-DC stuff: If i have MORE than 25A draw… can i have TWO DC DC converters maybe?! :smiley: I’ve got what ever the car needs. and then theoretically i would like to hook up my 40A sub amp… and then another i think 20A speaker amp… but it might be too much so i may have to sacrafice. :frowning:

DC-DC : https://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/?mod=product&cat_id=10&product_id=207

alhaxit:

great thinking on the TPS as well. I will have to learn more about that … i have NO idea how it works. So i’ll look into it. A pot box is only 75$ but still!

Is the $1000 charger the best way to go? I dont know any specs on it… I found this one from Kelly Controllers…: https://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/?mod=product&cat_id=11,31&product_id=271

HALF the price… have the performance?

Thinking about going Kelly with the controller… Zilla would be SWEeeeeeeeeeeet but they’re like 2K… thats outta my budget. Kelly controllers seem well priced and are configurable, and that sounds very appealing to me. :slight_smile:

any body have any experience with any Kelly Controller products?

8

https://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/?mod=product&cat_id=20&product_id=322

^^^ looking into using this controller…

What more is needed for regen. I don’t/didn’t think i could do it with JUST a Dc motor…

9

Coming out of “Lurk” mode for a moment to try and help…

I’ve been building cars (racecars and hotrods) for more than 35 years now and have done the adapter thing before…
The BIGGEST issue is to make sure that the centerline of the transmission input shaft and your motor’s armature shaft are in nearly dead perfect alignment - this means to within +/- .002" (two thousandths)… If you don’t have this - you WILL have bad vibration to begin with - which will be followed closely by bearing failures on either the motor or transmission - or both…

Just trying to help…

Now returning to lurk mode…

Currently working on a GT40 Replica http://www.Gt-Forty.com

10

[QUOTE=Big-Foot;3734]Coming out of “Lurk” mode for a moment to try and help…

I’ve been building cars (racecars and hotrods) for more than 35 years now and have done the adapter thing before…
The BIGGEST issue is to make sure that the centerline of the transmission input shaft and your motor’s armature shaft are in nearly dead perfect alignment - this means to within +/- .002" (two thousandths)… If you don’t have this - you WILL have bad vibration to begin with - which will be followed closely by bearing failures on either the motor or transmission - or both…

Just trying to help…

Now returning to lurk mode…

Currently working on a GT40 Replica http://www.Gt-Forty.com[/QUOTE]

Thanks Big-Foot,

Is there a method that will best center the adaptor plate/motor on the transmission?

How do most people do that?.. :stuck_out_tongue:

Battery Quetsion:

When making a battery pack. (Sorry i’m forgetful i’ve asked this question a few days ago a few times) How do you have to attatch the batteries to create a higher voltage? Can someone make me a “diagram/example” of how it works? So this means that if I use a 6v@225AH battery to make my pack of 144v it will still remain at 225AH. Correct?

Thanks! :smiley:

11

here’s a diagram i made this morning .

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/Timothywatson/Batterystring.jpg

did it becuase of you incurie in the battery section. but just spaced about it .

Edit: im perty sure the amps/amp-hours multiply with each one in the curcuit .

12

[QUOTE=PATZKE;3754]Thanks Big-Foot,

Is there a method that will best center the adaptor plate/motor on the transmission?

How do most people do that?.. :stuck_out_tongue:
[/QUOTE]

Actually - Most people either pay the price to have a machine shop do it, or they buy one off the shelf…

Since you’re going to be using an electric motor, the odds of finding an off the shelf adapter are slim…

That said, you really just need to have some precise measurements for the transmission’s bellhousing and input-shaft centerline. Determine what you are going to use for a coupling, create a mount for the motor itself. Install the coupling - set the motor mount up to the bellhousing adapter plate making sure that your coupling is not stressed - clamp the motor mount in place - use a dial indicator to check for run-out on the shafts / coupler - when you are as close as you can get (+/- .002") - You’re ready to drill the holes to mount the motor mount to the bellhousing adapter.

Sounds simple! It’s not. Don’t want to blow smoke and sunshine up your tail. There’s a really good reason why a good adapter plate costs a lot of money…