Hello,
In previous discussions apparently one way to save some money is to go with at D&D motor instead of buying the same motor but for more from R4F. Can someone remind me on who will program since that was part of the R4F package deal?
I still want to learn that process but again hard to find info.
Thanks!
It might depend on what part of the country you are in. (shipping the controller)
There are a few here that will tweak some numbers for you.
LG is one of them.
Basic programming is easy, just RTFM. Advanced tuning requires things you only learn from experience. You could do probably 85% on your own with the GE manual, digging through the posts here and asking quality questions.
You need a windows notebook, ge sentry software and a cable from @Inwo to start. You can find the software if you know where to look. Or, for T1 and T2, you can go with an LX handheld if you can find one.
T2 are not complicated and are unlocked, you can adjust most everything in them.
California is where i am at…
Im hearing just programming can get stock motor up to 28 ?
Also learning about what the Magic Magnet is all about. Seeing mixed reviews…I dont know how the MM compares or works together with programming. I know they are different beings, but is it usually one or the other that folks do, or?
California is where i am at…
Well, that narrows it down a bit.
Yes, for the early carsyou do not need the MM if you are getting into the programming.
Some people like the convenience of not dealing with programming and go for the MM.
Going faster isn’t as simple as just diving in and turning a dial up to 11.
it is a complex relationship of what you have for motor, controller programming, tire size, gears, terrain and batteries.
For most of these cars, speed is held back by the controller. Release that limiter and off you go. This is the beauty of the MM. A 60 second mod using NO tools and the speed potential of your car is free to go as fast as it can. Sometimes the MM ends up showing your present setup was already doing the best it could do. These are probably the sources of the mixed reviews. Since they don’t understand the MM they return it, post that it didn’t work for them but rarely follow up with anything more on if they did any other changes that did work.
Usually a big speed hobble is batteries. Just going after that extra 5mph EATS amps. Suddenly those perfectly fine 1y/o wet cells you bought at wall mart are not as good as you thought they were. If they do have some extra amps to spare they are quickly gone by the end of the block and now your car doesn’t make it on your loop out to get ice cream an back like it used to. Having a nice battery pack is a big factor to fast and keeping the range.
Then it comes down to Motor. The masters here are pretty good at pushing stock components to see just what they will do. I’m guessing you have a GE5 short motor? When was the last time it was serviced?
Only the T1 and T2 have adjustable speed governor settings, so you can just raise the “Max Overspeed” setting to whatever top speed you want. Doesn’t mean the GEM will be able to reach that speed, but that will be the new max if it can.
Later model controllers the top speed is hardcoded, so you need both a programmer to make the go fast changes and the MM to trick the tachometer into thinking you are turning the motor slower than you really are.
Yes. Search for a thread with a google docs spreadsheet from @diymatt, I think it used “controller settings” in the title. Find the sheets I entered with a stock 2002 longback T2 and then the R$F changes after my controller came back. It’s only 2-3 changes IIRC: max overspeed, field weakening and I forget the 3rd. RTFM because you can damage the motor or controller or both by going of range on some settings.
28 should be easy. I think I got to 30ish without adding extra batteries / higher voltage. keep in mind that Faster speed = less range
Good stuff, thank you. I do have a month or two old new set of US 31DC XC2. I heard and read that these are one of the best to use.
i have not idea on the service history of the motor. My guess is this car was pretty neglected. I would like to learn what maintenance can be done to help the stock motor continue. Resources for that info?