Reading the forums, it seems the heyday for Think conversions is mostly past, and there are many good lessons and tips here. I am lucky to find you all and if there is another such resource, please refer me.
I’ve found your troves of wiring and chassis documentation. I have found Dave’s magic magnet ordering info, I verified that my Delta-Q is programmable. I posted elsewhere in PM to a couple of you who either provide/once provided battery voltage spoofing but have heard no reply yet. I have a new HV DCDC unit ready to install. I’d also like to know if creating my own charging profile is feasible, or if someone has a group of lithium profiles to share/supply. I found a charger programming kit for $100, which is likely less than round trip charger shipping.
Anyone here who still has a motivation to help out a kindred spirit, please reply or contact me. As always, I appreciate you.
To start, What exactly did you build for your think?
What is it’s status?
What do you need it to do for you that it was not doing? (speed/hills/distance)?
You may have already found out, the weak link in the Think is the Cluster. They are very sensitive. Sometimes the B1/ B2 Motor controllers also have somewhat of a voltage limit
No- we do not have the ability to custom build a DQ Charger profile, but depending on what you put together, there may be something else close enough to suit your needs.
Hello AssyRequired, I am so grateful for your reply!
My use of the vehicle is intended for a suburban area where 35MPH is a flow-of traffic speed, and a couple linking streets are 40-45MPH, so faster is the goal. There is one middling-slope long hill, but my Think is a two-seater, so I have less concern. I have the 6hp motor/controller combo and stock size wheels.
I am blessed with a large free supply of Gen 3 Nissan Leaf NMC modules. At 3.7V/cell 111Ah, these provide a nominal 89V, and a do-not-exceed of 4.05V/cell or 97V for the pack. I have an Orion2 BMS for this pack. I intend to limit these to 95-96V.
I’ve read here of a 15V Zener circuit to help spoof the controller. Mouser supplied me with some 7.5V Zeners - do these just go in series to the controller? I’m used to a different zener circuit for voltage regulation.
Regarding the display, I did plan to keep the pack voltage below 95 and I also read a post describing a hobbiest product that replaces the cluster PC board with something more robust and then relies on an aftermarket GPS display for speed. The Orion 2 also has the smarts to control safe startup if needed as well.
I hope this is enough to help others help me, and I appreciate that help. Cheers all!
I use 177 for 24s. 22s is much safer, if you will just tap back two cells. More range by having the ability to charge near full.
I can set you up if you can get Byron a set of those cells.
The Gen 3 Leaf modules (4S2P) are not tappable in the middle the way you intend - those taps are for balance current and won’t flow full motor current. So the stack options are 24, 20 etc… In the picture I posted above you can likely make out how much smaller they are.
If Byron is still interested in some cells, we can all PM and see what we can work out.
@calmtron - Do you have space for that pack under your seat?
Maybe if it was laying down?
Or do you have designs on hiding this battery somewhere else?
You can’t tap 1s but you can tap 2s back.only the middle taps are smaller. I could be wrong, been a while since I used leaf modules.
I never asked Byron, just thought it would be a way for you to get what you need.
You are right, and I’m sorry! I was having a brain fart and was confidently incorrect. It still seems a waste to strand those cells, but I can see a purpose in having a more robust machine that doesn’t eat clusters or motor controllers.
Dave, I’ll be ordering a magic magnet, and a spoof circuit if you still supply those, and a charger programming will be needed, so let’s discuss.
Yes, I know it seems wasteful. Think of them as spares. I’ve used 24s when I had to but 100s of 22s.
The motor sellers D&D and R4F warn against HV. I don’t agree, but 24s is pushing the limits unless you are a true hotrodder.
I make the MM, not always useful with a think. See if car runs without the sensor, first.
I only do programming and spoofs with battery sales. That’s why I suggested a trade with Byron.
