I have 2 plugs/connectors that are not connected to anything (everything seems to be working ok- be sides my squirter on my windshield wiper.)
Do I have the new onboard charger? D1 or D2 ?
What’s the best was to access the model number for the motor to verify if I have the 4hp/ original motor?
The guy who sold it to me says he put in new batteries. I charged it for 3 days and
I got 11.5 miles on one charge going mostly 19-25 mpg the entire time. Is this normal?
Upgraded to LED and stuck with the “fast blinks”. I know someone posted a fix but i can’t find it. Looking for the part and where exactly to install it.
Can I spoof my existing setup to up the speed to 30 mph without breaking/blowing anything up?
1 The one plug has been added by someone. No idea why. The second one will most likely be for an accessory that you don’t have like a heater/defroster
2 Your charger has been upgraded to a Delta Q. To know if your controller is a D1 or D2 you can read the label on it, measure the length of it or take a picture of it and post it. The D2’s are quite a bit longer and have three bolts down each side holding it on where the D1 only has two bolts down each side.
Regarding distance:
What batteries are in the Think? Some get cheap and buy 50ah batteries, rather than the normal 100+ ah batteries. That will cause the car to go a shorter distance. When I got both of mine, they would only travel a few miles. I discovered one bad battery. Check the charge individually on each battery. They should all be really close over 12v. One of mine on each Think was 9 to 10v, dragging down the other batteries.
@David_Illingworth
The more of your post i read the more i learn which inturn causes me to have more questions.
A couple which came from this post are.
What is a magic magnet?
I was pretty sure i had a D2 controller before this post. Is this. D2 or D1?
So- what exactly is going on over at your house @mitsured ?
Are you-
Trying to learn more about your car?
Do you actually have a problem you are trying to track down?
In planning stages and getting ready to modify everything? (Motor/Controller/Lithium)
Rather than tacking on to the bottom of a handful of old threads trying to get a response from people that may not be checking back often, Most of the time it is far better if you start your own thread.
Also note: There is a magnifying glass search tool that will do a search of the archives using a few of your choice keywords. The Archives are GOLD when researching a future project or sniffing out an issue that you can’t figure out. Example: Just entering “Magic Magnet” brings up 129 times it was mentioned in various topics (Now 130).
Trying to learn more about your car? yes, I’ve had my car since 2016 just recently I purchased a couple of 72V LifePo4 batteries. I wired them up plugged them in and they worked. After charging my car wouldn’t work. I found the answer to my issue, high voltage to pin 1. I then went down the electric forum research rabbit hole. I’ve learned a lot from the great people here already!
Do you actually have a problem you are trying to track down? Yes, The solenoid won’t turn on after upgrading to “72V” really 87.6V LifePo4. …though I already found the answer and my diodes are on the way y
I have been searching for an installation video or some tip on where to connect the diodes.
Do I just splice them into the wire back by the controller before pin 1 or is there a better way to integrate them into the circuit?
In the planning stages and getting ready to modify everything? (Motor/Controller/Lithium)
Not looking to upgrade the motor or controller 35mph would be good enough for me. I’m still at the stock 25mph, with the annoying governor feel/noise. My Think is used for school drop-off, soccer, track, and rides to the park/river. My wife won’t take it above 15
I would also like to add a dedicated accessory battery, I think the 72v to 12v converter I have can be used as a 12v battery charger so if that’s the case it shouldn’t be too much of an issue. I do have the 5 pins and have my 2nd converter and it’s currently wired so it is switched. I’m guessing just a relay and switching around of wiring through go through the battery before my fuse block is all that would be required. This is another item I haven’t researched much yet to see what others have done.
I would like to upgrade the wheels to car wheels so finding a good deal on 4x101.6 to 4x100 spaces is a goal of mine. With this modification, it sounds like, from reading around, it would be best to reprogram my controller instead of the magic magnet. …though I’m still researching.
I’ve looked into the programmers and found the PC version though it seems to only be for older versions of windows. Haven’t done much research into this yet.
Thanks for the advice I’m always hesitant to start a new thread. Yes, I found some info about purchasing the magic magnet, I didn’t spend a lot of time searching yet though I didn’t find any info yet on exactly what it is or how it’s installed.
If I flip the “switch” both converters power up though no “click” and the screen doesn’t flash.
Lights work as does the radio and 12v outlet. I turned all 12v accessories on and plugged in a 12v heater. I know probably not the best for the converters, After a few hours, I was down to 82V still nothing. Down to 81.6V nothing. Once I dropped down to 81.5V the solenoid will click and the car will work.
I’ve tested this 3 times now. Can’t get the car to run above 81.5V
O a side note. if I flip the “switch” at the higher voltage the solenoid doesn’t click. If I turn the key it does click though the screen doesn’t turn on. Not sure if this is helpful just figured I’d share everything I can.
Edit:
I missed the Are you sure question.
Not at all, I don’t hear the “click” though if the converts are working I’m assuming the voltage is getting through. I was first assuming the 90V cut-off for my converter was actually a lot lower for some reason. Now I’m guessing it’s more the contactor is working, not sure why it doesn’t click, and the issue is the pin 1 voltage.
…so the correct number of diodes connected in series will fix my issue?
Verify → Your Instrument Cluster does not show anything when you go above 81.5v?
Have you checked into how that is powered? If you sent your cluster to “the cluster guy” for a rebuild he usually gives it a dedicated DC Power module. Do you have one of those?
Verify-> Your Instrument Cluster does not show anything when you go above 81.5v?
To do this I’m assuming I’d make sure the voltage is low enough for the car to turn on. Then plug in the charger and see if anything displays after the voltage goes above 81.5V?
I do not think I have a dedicated DC Power module.
I"m guessing that’s the box to the right on his page.
If we need to know for sure I’ll pull the cluster out and check.
Sorry. Maybe I should have been more specific. I wanted to be clear on what you are seeing.
Your statement-
and the screen doesn’t flash.
When your batteries are too high, then you switch on the key and your round dash display(aka the cluster) does not show anything at all (appears still OFF)? It does not do a boot check, light up any blinky lights, no LCD activity at all?
Ref your link -
Yes- That is the little cube. If you have one installed check it’s ratings. Make sure it is still has output when your batteries are high. If you don’t have one you might want to look into it.
Granted, I don’t have a THINK so I am only going by what I see.
No reason to be sorry, at all. Just the opposite you have been awesome.
When the batteries are too high, then I switch on the key, the round dash display(aka the cluster) does not show anything at all it appears still OFF.
For the Think when I switch on the battery switch, normally the solenoid clicks and the cluster lights up then turns right back off. If this happens I then turn the key and the car will run.
When I am above 81.5V after I flip on the battery switch the solenoid does not click and the cluster does not light up. If I then turn the key the solenoid does click through the cluster does not turn on and the car will not run.
