I have a think that I am looking to upgrade. I have lead batteries that have now died and I don’t want to replace with more lead. I live in a hilly part of San Diego and need some extra horsepower to get up the hills. In the long run i would like to replace batteries, charger, motor controller, motor and replace the cluster all together with a better display. In the near term I think I need to start with a lithium pack and build from there. Looking for advice and guidance on how to get this done fairly quickly and have a dependable cart.
Some have been able to fit the 22s samsung battery.
24"x14.5"x8"
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The Best Buy in the market right now. This 50 ah pack will give you 25 miles and you lose 300 lbs.
DON"T DO IT -
Not enough discharge AMPS - we have delt with these types of batteries many times…
These particular ones are really low AMP output.
|Nominal Continuous Discharge Current|25.0 Amps|
|Maximum Continuous Discharge Current|50.0 Amps|
|Maximum Peak Discharge Current|100.0 Amps|
“It is perfect for e-scooters, e-bikes, solar applications, robots”
Not golf carts or cars 
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and you cannot even charge these batteries with the standard 12Amp Delta-Q charger.
Normal Charge Current 10.0 Amps
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I’m skeptical about 25 mile range with a mere 50ah pack
…And if I want to lose 300 lbs, I’ll tell the wife to get out and walk…
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Bad idea and over priced…
Who tells you that 50ah will get you 25 miles? I only say 30+ miles for my samsung battery that is over twice the capacity.
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I have one and I get 25 miles on my Think. Show me another pack that gives you 25 miles for less money.
@Videoguy
Specs on your car?
Stock motor/controller?
What charger?
– what V is it set to?
What speeds do you typically travel?
Flat or Hilly neighborhood?
How long have you been running this setup?
Feel free to Report back in 6 mos with long term results/opinion.
2002 Ford Think
Gen 2 motor/controller
Lithium Charger 10A 84V
23-25 Avg
Flat
6 months
Something wrong with you car if it doesn’t exceed 100 amps.
Good for you if it works with your performance.
If performance was turned down, Samsung battery would run 50 miles easily.
My clients generally expect improved performance and good mileage.
However, @LithiumGods has a tiny battery for cheap. High voltage performance and about the same capacity.
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Mity Mite battery. 4.2 kwh compared to 3.6kwh aegis
350 amp peak versus 100a.
Honestly, i don’t see how you can baby a Think enough to not trip bms. Or god forbid, it’s not connected.
Great if it works for you, but I dont want others to think it typical.
Mighty Mite: Is a high voltage(96v), high performance, stock range pack. 24s, 47ah, 2 modules. This would be for a 2 or 4 passenger Gem. Very fast, will make a stock 5hp Gem easily outperform a 7.5hp upgraded Gem. Range should be about 20 miles at high speed(testing should be done next week). Easy install, combined weight 48lbs. Recommend for those that don’t need a lot of range and want to increase their Gems performance. No need to buy a $900 aftermarket motor. Expecting battery longevity to be about 3x a set of lead batteries. $1650.
Michael claims 20 miles from a battery over 10% higher capacity.
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The discharge rate is too low, I’ve seen gems pulling over 300A and then a around 120A continuous.
Definitely not recommended.
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Is the BMS part of the pack?
Ours, yes, of course.
Guys, guys, guys…
Come on now, let’s not bicker. After all, it’s “The best buy on the market now.”
I read it on the Internet. Must be true
Reviving this thread and moving over from a private chat.
Purchased two 12s 155ah batteries to put in my think.
Pulled my SLA 12VDC. I have these hooked up as the sit now just to get power on and start checking things.
Batteries are charged to 90.6V right now.
On initial turn of the key everything light up in the cluster correctly but when the pedal was depressed the contactor solenoid doesn’t click and nothing happens. I tried reverse just for fun, nothing different except the back up beep.
Turned it back to off and then back to drive, but this time the backlight in the cluster, headlights, brake lights, signals, etc no longer work. I think I have blown a fuse or one of the two dc/dc converters. Not super worried about that right now.
I currently have the 4hp original motor and d2 controller. I don’t need a crazy fast top end but I do need to be able to maintain speed up pretty steep hills. If I could make this 96vdc setup work with a d2 and an upgraded dc motor that would probably meet my needs. From what I have been told the d2 can’t take that high a voltage and I should probably move to an AC motor and controller if I can find one that fits the Thinks trans and space in the frame.
I am also inclined to switch to the AC setup as I would love to get rid of the cluster all together and replace with a tablet like @turbodad did with the sevcon and Samsung tablet.
Looking for input/advice/added considerations as I figure this out
Thanks
Does anyone know the difference between the Gem T2 and Think d2? Can you spoof the controller to take higher voltage?
I thought one of the other issues is the motor is PACK in there… little room for more motor length
T2:
https://www.shop.fsip.biz/Image/GetDocument/en/64
D2:
https://www.shop.fsip.biz/Image/GetDocument/en/76
I’ve never sat down and compared the documents though. I do recall that you need the D2.mdb to properly (or fully) configure the controller with sentry software.
Can you spoof a T2 on pin 1? Dave? @Inwo
I recall the hard limit is lower on the T2 than the T4.
Zenner diodes are like $8 for 30 on amazon. Easy enough to splice a few in series into the right pin and see, worst that happens is it doesn’t work
(ok, worst is that you let the blue smoke out)