Trust the bms. Let it charge to 4.1 setting
Doing that with #14. Good news.
How do change my OVP and UVP on the app. Mine is set up to be 4.18 and 2.85 I do not want to over charge.
Battery is 87.42v and 1.7a. must be getting close to capacity AMPs drop from 11.5 to 1.7
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Pw is 123456
Ovpr must be lower so set it first say 4.05, then ovp to 4.1.
That is not too high as battery drops back when charger shuts off.
If you think it too high after finish, run it down right away and lower a little next time.
I dont know where your settings came from. They donât seem to be the defaults. Yet they are not where i preset them either. Must have slipped through my procedure somehow.
Not to worry, even charging to default 4.2 will not hurt it, and your charger will not go that high.
4.05 8s a good place to be hot off the charger imo. 89v
Get in the habit of using cell volts to inform soc.
Reason being, relates to any configuration. And the sdi soc bible is per cel.
Iow, easier for me. 
85% is fine unless 6ou need to squeeze out every mile.
OK, I will let it this cycle, because I know the voltage will drop when it shuts down. That is normal for my vehicle. Thanks again for all the help. Tomorrow I will design some tie downs for the battery and a clam shell for the NEG connection out of ABS. 3D printers are great for one offs.
Also would be nice to make sure it does this every charge cycle. Hopefully this was not one of the âequalizeâ ramps that kicked in every 20 cycles(or whatever).
I seem to remember LG observing that on one of the profiles.
I wouldnât think it would be featured on a Gel profile tho.
Went on a short drive yesterday I hit 32mph. I had an issue, it died at an intersection. The wrench on the display showed up and over temp show up and I turn the key off and on and it started moving again. So went golfing this morning and the same thing happen at the intersection. Made it to golf course got up to a step hill and it would not make it up. My over temp for the motor stays on and the motor runs about a 110deg F. would this mean a bad motor? or a bad controller? Drove about 10 miles used 25% battery power. Is this good?
I donât believe r4f motor uses a sensor.
Why doesnât this motor have the torque to make up hills. Does this sound like a motor problem or a controller problem? How can I check these parts? Thanks
When your car did the shut down what are the clues?
Did the display still have power?
Did it show an error code?
What was that number showing on the display?
Bring up the app and see if the battery is reporting an issue.
Show us a pic of your motor.
Look on the passenger side of the motor for several wires. There will be a bundle of three (which are you speed sensor wires) and they will go up into the harness. At that point of the harness there will be another set of black wires ending in a plug. Does that plug go to anything? Is it taped up? That is your temp sensor wires.
When was the last time your motor was serviced?
Maybe motor and controller are for speed not torque. Did R4F reprogram controller?
They may have the field current turned down.
D&D make speed motors and torque motors. I donât think any of them utilize a temperature sensor.
Maybe you are seeing controller over temperature?
Ps. 110F is near ambient. Now 110C is getting warm.
When the car shut down the display was still on and a wench appeared in the display no error codes. No problem with battery. Just installed new RFF 7.5 motor. I have the MM and jumper installed.
Could I have a bad motor or a bad controller? can the MM be bad and cause these issues?
How can I test the controller?
Tomorrow I will take out the MM out and see if that is the issue.
Next I will reinstall old motor and see what happens.
Any other suggestions?
I think maybe you should avoid intersections.
I can push it thru an intersection but canât push up the hills. That screws up my golf game.
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I doubt it is the MM. The symptoms you present are not in the same group with what the MM does.
I am a little baffled that you say the wrench was on but there were no codes?
Was the Speedo just showing a big 0 (zero)
Was the temp light ON at that time? (Iâll have to check if the temp sensor would trigger a wrench Icon).
Was the temp light ON the whole time of this expedition?
If the temp light was ON this whole time then the motor controller would have dramatically cut back on the power of the motor.
When you were cruising around did you notice any odd sounds coming from the motor?
Are all of your motor connections tight? Do any of them look discolored or melted?
Yes the temp light was on all of time yesterday. When trying to get up the hill, clicking sounds coming from the motor area or relay.
It really helps if you list as many of the clues as you can.
When you go out to the car today (cold start) Look for that temp light.
Still ON?
Inspect that bypass plug on the harness. Make sure it is plugged in all the way.
If necessary pull the bypass plug and jump the harness with a piece of wire.
That Temp Light NEEDS to go out!
Clicking? Related to cart speed? Can you guess how often it happens?
I believe I found the problem. Call R for F and was told to connect the speedo wires together. Strip the wires and tie together. When I received the kit I did not check this. I assumed that this was done. So was scolded to read the directions. This should fix my problems. Thanks for all the help.