Hey I have a brand new Never used set of High Speed Gears for a Transmission
Main Gear 106 tooth
Primary Gear 33 tooth
This will give your transmission a slightly taller (faster) gear set then a 9:8:1 recommended for cars in flat areas where high speed is wanted. To see if anyone had some parts to trade for these gears or $150.
I’m looking for a transmission if you have one they have the thick plastic/wax protection cover over the gears.
Depending on your skill set it’s easy, OR worst case scenario it’s take the transmission out and a local shop said they would do the gear swap for me for $25. I did a short video of how the transmission come apart.
I get it. Your 100% right. What I have found is. The only “Magic Pill” or single mod you can do that makes a huge difference is a 3k Lithium Upgrade. You can however do small cost effective upgrades like this along with other upgrades and slowly creep towards a better gem. I bought these gears for a car I was gonna build for our 2nd home where It’s totaly flat and 40+ Mph keeps cars off your bumper on ElCamino
I’m at 96v with Volt lithiums, a MM and car tires. I max out at 32mph even with the MM set on the high setting.
I think my big issue right now is my controller. It’s a T3 and Rodney has mentioned that the top end speed is not adjustable with that specific model. I don’t have any desire to drop 400-500 +programming anytime soon though so anytime I see other little tweaks I get thinking too hard.
Shunting field current is classic way to speed up dc motors.
Sepex motors are more efficient, controlling the field current.
What I did was connect a high power resistor across the field. Thinking that it could be switched in circuit for more speed.
Found this in my junk box. As I recall, it didn’t do anything, but I was already running fast as I wanted.
At least It didn’t blow anything up.
One of the cars I sold a few years ago have a T-3 controller. It had brand new battery’s and a MM and I could not get it to go over 33 MPH. I agree the T3 is a strange duck. And FYI you need to do some electronic mods to make a Car that came with a T3 work with a T4 you can’t simply throw a T4 in and have it work. Same for T1 to T2 swap.
Do a search in the forum you can see the pins you need to Jump to make a T2 work in a T1 car
If you have more time than money, I have a T4 from Grant that’s unknown condition. I use it to test programming cables.
Now that I think of it, I don’t know if it holds programming.
I have cables coming in this week to test. If it seems ok, you can try it. At least I will know if it’s any good.
If it’s not, I can trade for your working T3, and you can have it rebuilt.
I also have a rebuilt T4 that has issues. So far I haven’t had time to delve into it.
Screw Grant! He doesn’t know ■■■■ about gears.
Got my programmer parts today. I connected the T4. It has stock programming in it.
Not dead. What else might be wrong, I don’t know.
You can test it if you have time to kill. I can also send the field shunt, which may also be a waste of time.
Full Discloser on that T-4 that David has. I bought a 2008 E-4. The owner gave me the T-4 in his spare parts bin. When I asked what was up with it he said that the Gem at one point stopped working and that Gem replaced the controller, and gave him the old one. So that’s all I knew about the controller. It may be totally fine or it could have a hidden issue??? I sent it to Dave to have him test it, and it’s been working just fine for him. So you could hook it up and be 100% OR it may have a issue and cause you greif?
It’s may be worth it to send it to FSIP and have them test it, that way you know your not wasting your time. Hate for you to have another Air Shock project