Don’t follow, powering controller from ac power?
Why do you need that? You can power it easily from lower voltage for bench testing and programming.
I make a USB to T1 dongle if you would rather program with sentry sw.
Charger threshold is another reason to use more than 21s. It’s not an issue with at least 22s.
If you find a source for DQ profiles, I will trade.
Don’t have #67, #211, #163, or #123.
67 is the most important one I don’t have.
Pretty much powering the cart through the 120v ac wall plug using some sort of ac/dc adapter to verify everything works without batteries. I would be interested in getting the cable. I know forklift electronics sells a specialized kit for $100.
I have no idea what those profiles even are. All I know are profiles 13, 14, 15, 24, 25, 32.
The controller can be powered, but testing everything would take several kw of power. Batteries, even small ones makes more sense.
As far as I know, I’m the only one making a dongle for the T1.
Also the only source for usb to GE cables, and monitor cable for T4.
I get the sw from forklift as they are the only legit source.
The USB to T1 cable is $50. You may be able to find the sentry sw to borrow.
The profiles are for lithium.
OK I’ll let you know if I’m able to obtain more profiles.
I’ll PM you soon about acquiring the cables. Do you have all cables T1-T4?
Pretty much powering the cart through the 120v ac wall plug using some sort of ac/dc adapter to verify everything works without batteries. I would be interested in getting the cable. I know forklift electronics sells a specialized kit for $100.
Nothing found less than about $1500
Get yourself a 66 volt module from a Chevy Volt.
One man can lift it.
Connect to some big insulated clip leads. Even with 6awg should be able to lightly load test all.
Where are you? I’ll find you one.
Wow that’s awesome. I see its the 23 pin connector. My little programmer uses the connector from the bdi. Does this communicate the same way?
No, it plugs into the 23p plug. Reads out data as in picture.
The t1 does not have rs-232 com. So needs special dongle. Built into the universal usb cable.
T1 and T2 will monitor current and voltage while motoring. Even graph arm and F current versus battery voltage.
Above T2 needs trickery to get it into “monitor” mode.
You can buy or build cables cheaply that stay with each car. Adds a programming port negating need for removing 23p plug each time. About $10. Then copy it if you want.
I have one made up with a switch. Switch from program to run. To monitor, put it in prog mode to establish a link. Then flip to run and monitor or, graph while motoring.
I’m retired, and could give it all away. But it is hard won information. Trial and error with no help from forklift.
Same with dq repair. No factory support. Zero. I have a garage full of dq corpses from post mortem.
Thus alone will give you over 10 miles of testing.
OK I see a small battery can be an option. Is that from a Chevy Volt? I’ve always talked about lithium conversions but thought it was too expensive. Are these from salvaged vehicles?
Yes, Volt and Leaf modules make great Gem batteries.
I started with Volt and can’t stop. Starting to offer bms, harnesses, and charging solutions.
The only downside to volt is standard module size of 22v and 44v.
Dishonest sellers call them 24v and 48v.
I think that I have overcome this shortcoming.
You can buy a 16kwh pack all day for $1200 to $2500.
A slow Gem on the level can use as little as 150w per mile.
That means 1/4 of a full pack can do 40 miles in theory. Full 20M in practice.
There is room in an EL for a full pack. Would make am 80-100 mile gem.
1/2 pack is a good compromise.
Right now there are two 18kwh new 2017 packs for sale.
$5000 each
That’s great but wouldn’t the controller display error code -15 since the voltage is 44? Could I reprogram function 15 from value 72 to 44?
You would need a 3kwh pack which is a 44v and a 22v for 66 volts. 18s
75 volts maximum.
Only for testing. Need 21 to 24 cells for good performance.
22s is the sweet spot. IMO
FYI when I went 26 I was going down hill. Slight hill but still a grade none the less. Generally speaking I can only go 21-22 mph max on a straight flat road. Realistically I would be happy with a constant 30 mph on a full charge. Also my D.C. To D.C. Converter went out I’m sure and is also still under recall. The problem is I’m really just a little to far and have no trailer options and need one but they will not send one to me. Any suggestions?
Dc-dc is not expensive.
You might buy a generic one. Or even the one that is covered in the upgrade.
An extra battery might work until you can get it repaired.
Is the original dead or visibly burned.
Picture?
Ps.
The mm won’t help you if not able to reach speed limit.
The original is just dead no visible burns I’ll send some images in a little while. Why do you suppose my my car won’t go full speed! lubricant brake drag?
My previous comment only if the dc output is bad. Replacing the whole board would be a chore.
Rodney suggests checking brakes. See if it rolls with a light push.
Check battery volts under load.