Hi there, I just picked up a 2002 Gem and after driving it for a few days it all of the sudden developed a grinding noise when I accelerate. It happened while out and about and rather than cause further damage I had it towed back to my house. I lifted the front wheels off the ground and they turn freely with no noise but as soon as i press on the accelerator it makes a noise that I initially thought was a CV joint but like I said when I manually turn the front wheels it doesn’t make the noise. Could it be the differential? Bearing in motor? I’m fairly new to the Gem world but pretty good with taking things apart just looking for some suggestions where to start.Thanks in advance
So I tore it down and noise definitely coming from the Bone Dry Differential. Had the car for about to weeks and this is the one thing I didnt think to check. More worried about batteries and electronics and forgot to check the basics. I added gear lube and noise did not get any better. New gears? New diff?
I’m learning more and more every minute. Turns out the drain bolt that I assumed was the drain ( Being in the location that I would look for a drain on a diff) turned out to not be the drain. I learned the the oil fill and drain are the same so the diff did have oil in it. Next culprit could be the motor. Pulled it and when I manually turn the inner spline on motor its not too smooth so I figure its a bearing or somethin internal in the motor which is definitely not in my wheel house of fixing. I talked to Marlon way back when prior to buying a GEM so I have a text off to him top get his opinion. The gear box turns smoothly without any noise manually with tires off ground. Any suggestions for rebuild(if available) VS. new 7.5 Motor?
Don’t know if cost is an issue but I highly recommend a new 7.5hp or higher motor. With reprogramming of the control, you’ll have more umph (top speed and torque)! Marlon sells motors from 7.5 to 9.5hp and helps with the reprogramming etc. Ride-4-fun is another source of 7.5hp motors and controller reprogramming.
Al
It might just be the brake shoes burning off rust. They sound really bad for a while, then they get over it. If it’s been sitting it will sound bad, but it goes away. Just an idea. It could be something worse, but the brake shoe thing happened to us.
Thanks for the tip… After I removed the motor i rolled the car down driveway and there was no noise coming from diff or brakes so I have eliminated that.
[quote=ARandall;16861]Don’t know if cost is an issue but I highly recommend a new 7.5hp or higher motor. With reprogramming of the control, you’ll have more umph (top speed and torque)! Marlon sells motors from 7.5 to 9.5hp and helps with the reprogramming etc. Ride-4-fun is another source of 7.5hp motors and controller reprogramming.
Al[/quote]
This is definitely an option I am looking at. I am lucky enough to live in San Diego not to far from Marlon and have been picking his brain for a few months regarding the purchase and maintenance of a gem car. For those of you that have mentioned how great he is to work with and have not had the pleasure to meet meet him in person, you are missing out. He’s awesome.
Greetings,
I had similar problems with my 2002GEM, replaced both of the input shaft bearings and greased the spline. That took care of the noise.
I’ve been trying to get ahold of Marlon for the past month. I’ve tried both of his email addresses and his cell number. His cell mailbox is full and no response from the email’s. Does anyone know how to get in touch with him??
There’s a another thread, “Marlon of MZ Motorsports” discussing Marlon’s availability. He had an accident and has been in recovery since.
Al
[quote=ARandall;17220]There’s a another thread, “Marlon of MZ Motorsports” discussing Marlon’s availability. He had an accident and has been in recovery since.
Al[/quote]
Thanks for the Info Al, I had talked to Marlon a few weeks ago when he called to update me on the status of my new motor. I hadn’t heard from him since so this explains it. I text him to see if there was anything I could do since he lives about 20 minutes away and Haven’t heard back. Maybe i"ll stop by his house in a few days just to say Hi.
Bad wheel bearing. You definitely can get grinding noises, and sometimes clunking noises
We have changed several wheel bearings on our GEMs. Remember there are two bearings for each wheel.
Hello All,
I just rebuilt my GEM Car. New paint, rims, Ride 4 Fun Charger, etc. I was just out tonight and I smelled something “cooking” and it wasn’t steak - also my cart grinds when It hits the governor. It smelled bad from my GEM. All of of a sudden I saw an error of something like “1045”. Don’t quote me on that but my cart was dead and I was stranded. I don’t know the codes but the only things I can think of that I haven’t touched are the controller, motor, or a fuse is blown.
Any ideas will help. I am going to go check now but my guess is a blown motor or fuses? I don’t know much about the controllers but people say they re-program them. Who actually knows what that is or how to do it? Any advice will help. It;s going to be a long night.
If you smell something burning and the motor is not running smooth.SHUT IT DOWN, I didnt and tried to make it home. Motor was shorted. I had a spare. Controller was cooked. $545 for repair. Display was shot $78 on Ebay. I do my own work so I didn’t have any labor charge. Hope your luck is better than mine. Don’t try to trouble shoot by powering up the controller a shorted motor WILL take it out. If your display was still working you may be lucky. Mine was DEAD.
Have you guys ever seen anything like this? One of my connectors toasted right through the battery. I looked at all of the batteries and they are all charged (even the one that the post was fried on).
Do you know Trojan’s policy on their batteries?
I won’t be able to diagnose anything else until I get up and running. My fuses are all good so I hope that this is the problem.
I’m not sure if the motor grinding caused this or if they are two different issues?!
-Zach
A not abnormal occurance, usually started by a loose or dirty connection. Repair it with a post adaptor from your auto parts store. If the damage goes through the top of the battery a bit of silicone caulk will seal it up. Rember “BRIGHT AND TIGHT” for all connections.
Well thats good to hear at least but who do I blame?
I had a company come out and actually install the batteries. It was part of their service. These batteries are $200/ea as you know so not something I want to keep replacing.
Trojan fault?
Installer fault?
Or do I take blame?
Probably NOT Trojan fault.
So If I replaced this battery do you think it would happen again?
Do you think this is a Ride 4 Fun charger issue? Over charged? Vibration? Loose connection?
Why this battery? BTW other battery screw are corroding as well.
Not sure how to diagnose this problem. It sucks being stranded. Trust me!