I saw nothing indicating any lube or anti-seize and good point about thread galling. I used teflon lube on re-assembly and the thread contact area was only 2 “1/8” sections of the aluminum extrusion. I just wasn’t expecting the bolt to break before the aluminum corroded joint failed.
I can see a garaged and dry installation being fine and GEMs get sold with a “tail light guarantee” all the time… It’s not like I’ve recently got a GEM stated as being in great shape and serviced by professionals only to find stuff broken, parts missing, wrong parts installed so a freak’n hack job.
Goliath? Those look like Barbie batteries. Do they come with a Ken doll?
Mike: That’s just plain mean!!!
can you give us the length of these spacers?
Goliath Battery & ANT BMS is Up and running Thanks to Dave for his help. I was haveing some sort of interface communication interference and could not communicate with the DVT software. We hacked directory into the Svcon to avoid the interference I was getting.so now that the laptop is talking to the sevcon we are back on track and all is well. The Higher Voltages kicked my re Gen out. So that needed some work and the car seems a tad slug-ish off the line. As soon as it gets rolling 10+ Mph the ramp up is Awesome I can definitely feel a performance jump in power and torque. Just need to tune the take off for a bit more Bump
Let us know what parms you needed to change, I would have thought that just the voltage changes we made would have corrected your issue.
We plan to do a HV, 8kw, Goliath install near the end of Aug. in San Deigo.
Glad you are up and running.
Mike: I don’t Know what parameters we’d to be changed I was looking for some advice on what to adjust to make my “Take off speed “ ramp up faster. It seems like you stomp on the throttle and it takes a bit b4 it starts getting after it let me know what you think I should try in DVT
hmm, let me think about it. The voltage increase should not affect the slip map.
Your ramp up speeds should not have changed -
Wait - what DCF are you using? Same as before the Goliath?
I assume you now have the voltages where they should be cutoffs at about 60v and 110v?
We can take this offline if you wish.
We took your File and Dave Tweaked the Throttle settings so your file would work in my car. Also we changed it from 500hz to 250Hz
Here were a few things that changed when I installed the Higher Voltage Pack.
- re Gen went completely away. It was at around 50% had to bump it up to around 70%
- Take off speed was reduced or slowed down
Good News. The mid range ramp up (speed) seems to have bumped up. I have some real steep drive ways in my community. And if I can’t get the car going rather quickly in a short space it’s a problem. Example if I drive into someone’s house with a steep driveway down hill, it’s a tricky deal getting the car back out.
if I can get the car going right away with more take off speed, then the program seems to unlock or make more Amps and Current available to the motor and the car takes off. Think of it like a powerband in a 2 stroke. Unless you can get the car going more then 5-7 mph the program dosnent allow current to the motor it keeps the current low.
I just change your dcf to dual throttle and 250 baud.
Must need low speed slip adjusted. I can look at it here.
Maybe you old dcf is better suited to your driving.
Raise slip between 500-2000rpm don’t go to crazy or the motor will get out of sync and it will scream
Make sure your not near the voltage cut off limit.
Drive with dvt open and look for any fault when accelerating .
I emailed the slip map plus the old map from garnt dcf.
The garnt is crazy aggressive. All 30 except 20 0-1000 rpm
If it were me, start low and only raise enough for performance wanted, to keep current down.
Split it up more to only raise where needed to keep from jerking from zero rpm.
Say 0-500, 500-1000, 1000-1500, etc.
Low speed acceleration has the most chance of cavitating on hills.
Start fro zero on a big hill, if not set too high you will be able to accelerate full throttle. Stop immediately if it jerks to prevent damage. Lower slip at that rpm.
Think of these as rpm shift points to keep in the power band. Shift to too high a gear, or too low an rpm, motor will stumble and die. Like letting the clutch out fast in a high gear.
If you have amps to burn, and it doesn’t cavitate on hills, go crazy. I like to tune for lowest current draw, dropping slip at top speed, leaving only enough torque to maintain desired speed.
Most of this is like listening to Chinese. Someday i hope to grow up and learn about programming controllers…Hard info to find so far.
You can baby step with the DC t2 controllers. $150 and you’re up and running. Only like 25 settings.
You get into the Sevcon AC setup, there are hundreds of options, drive profiles, etc. Setup is like $450-900.
This is my slip table - I still get a little bit of cavitation with 10.1 gears: Still tuning
I tryed adjusting up and down on those slip settings and it didn’t make a difference. Dave found a setting that made a big jump. Now my take off is much better. It one of the setting that’s somewhat backwards. Myn was set at 100% and adjusting it Down give you more take off performance
Ah yes, I know that setting, I use 90%
I started building the dash mounted display
This raw LCD needs a cover and this black box holds the Raw LCD